Had truck towed last week and removed the pan, intake manifold, valve covers and then reassembled. Finally got it running and used a hose to isolate a distinct tapping sound coming from #5 intake lifter. I am attempting to remove the lifter to check it out and removed the retainer and push rod and the lifter is about 1/3 exposed but can't get it beyond that point, suspect there's a o'ring, or something simular preventing it from coming out??? I would prefer not having to remove the heads and wondered if there's a special tool, or method of removing the lifter from the block?? Comments, suggestions appreciated!!

 

There is a special tool


The lifters are either tilt or carbonised oil jams them

 

Thank you very much, being a card carrying member of the Amazon Prime club I should have the tool by friday with the free 2 day shipping. Again, appreciate the information!!!.

 

Is this a roller motor? If so the lifters should slide right out after the retainer is removed, of not then they're damaged and so is the cam so this isn't an easy or cheap fix.

 

They are the hydraulic flat tappet variety and aint coming out regardless of which tool I modify, or try and use. Understand the tool cobra-kai recommend will do the trick without removing heads???

If the problem is with the that particular lifter I was only going to replace the intake and exhaust for #5 at the cost of $5, with the purchase of a $25 tool I will likely get my monys worth for a one time use and replace all 16 with a summit brand for $2.50 ea. Appreciate the information, thank you!

 

The lifter may still not come out, even with that tool if it's damaged. Sort of like "mushroom lifters" which have to come out the bottom of the lifter bore.

 

I have the same tool.
You don't need to remove the heads, just the valve covers.

There is another (cheaper) tool, but it doesn't have the slidehammer.
I had the same problems with the lifters.
They just didn't want to come out.

I pulled them a bit out, pushed them back in, oiled them, pulled them again,....
Took me over two hours to get all 16 out.

And I even damaged the tool.
You have to make sure that it really seats secured in the lifter.
Otherwise it slipps out, get bent or rips in.

 

Appears to be the case, pulled the exhaust lifter on #5 with ease yet the intake only moves about 2" and no further. Best I take a break before I proceed to remove the lifter by any means possible. Thank you for the info!!

 

Have to laugh, so far exact steps I have taken in an effort to just remove that one lifter. It slides up and down with ease until the bottom lip of the lifter hits the bottom edge of the block. Fairly certain the lifter has a burr and since intend to replace I got a pair of pliers on it and still would not come out any further. If I could work it out gradually using the tool it would be worth it to me just for that 1 lifter. Again, thanks to all for the information.

 

Ordered the tool, if unable to remove the 1 lifter then I will remove all the lifters and replace with a new cam and lifter kit.

 

You might try a cheap trick first. If you're lucky, it's sludge that's keeping the lifter from coming out. So you can try something like Gumout, or some other spray carburetor cleaner, on the lifter.

However, if it is a mushroomed lifter, pulling it out by force will damage the lifter bore, which will then require refinishing.

 

Affraid it may be a 'mushroomed lifter and I am not sure how much force I am willing to use in trying to remove it? Don't want to remove the cam but would rather do that than risk damaging the lifter bore. Intend attaching the lifter tool and give the slide hammer 2-3 light to medium tugs and see what happens??? Don't believe there's more than 30K miles on the engine, and with regular oil changes don't suspect there will be much of a deposit buildup on the lifters. Ordered the lifter puller Wed evening and just rec'd an email the tool will be arriving Friday. Anxious to find out whether the project is going to be expensive and labor intensive, or cheap and just a matter of replacing 2 lifters and an intake manifold gasket?? Thank you all for your suggestions and comments, greatly appreciated!

 

Couple medium tugs and decided it was not worth it. Fortunately the problem was #5 lifter so once the cam was remove I was able to retrieve the lifter with a magnet. The bottom of the lifter was in very sad condition, no more flatter than a ducks backside, and the lobe was not much better. The other lobes, and the journals looked good. The replacement cam and lifters are in the mail as I speak, started to rain so I intend checking on the problem lifter bore when weather improves. Thanks to all for the comments and advice!!

 

Kind of a coincidence that I am doing the same repair on a 351W. My trouble lies with a lifter in number four. The cam really beat it up. I don't have the cam out yet as I need to make a little puller to get the harmonic balance off. Not really sure which cam to buy but will prolly go fairly close to stock. I do have a four barrel and headers on this '86 block but it still has the original heads.
It's always something!!

 

Not an authority, fortunately saved the paper work on 68 302 and chose the same conservative cam that came with the rebuild 7 1/2 yea. ago. The engine has a 4v holley with headers and Edlebrook performer. Seemed as if the engine was running little rich so I ordered smaller jets, currenty running .066 and decided to try the .064 and see how it runs?? Had an urge to bump up the cam but then realized it's a 68 289/302ci block and limited because of the current stock rocker arm assembly, I did not want to go thru the cost of installing roller assembly on this particular engine so decided to remain conservative?? I would imagine with a later model engine, particularly a 351W, then may offer more options?? Went with cam where the basic running RPM is 1200-4800. 204/214 intake-exhaust duration with valve lift of 449/473 int.-exh. There was an Edlebrook cam and lifter kit I considered and still kinda wish I had step the cam up a slightly?? Understand when the valve int./exh lift goes beyond 500 then one is getting into the high performance range. Anyhow, perhaps member more knowledgable will chime in with reliable information.

Found having an impact gun works wonders in removing p/s pulleys, harmonic balancers, etc. I used a puller simular as the type in the following link and it appears it includes a thread protector so one does not damage the crankshaft retainer bolt threads.