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3 Mods Done At the same time from scratch

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Old May 1, 2007 | 09:56 PM
  #1  
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Talking 3 Mods Done At the same time from scratch

I did the Cackle Cure, the HPX and the CCV mods at the same time and I think that it was much faster than doing them seperatly because the equiptment that has to be removed for one , is better removed for all. I had a few un-expected things come up but through persistance got the job done.I have posted some pictures in my gallery for anyone thinking about doing any of these mods. I also found one missing and one loose bolt in the turbo that was causing it to leak. And a ROCK in the fuel passage in the head. That picture is also in my gallery.
 
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Old May 1, 2007 | 10:06 PM
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thats one clean lookin engine for a early 99 nice pics too good job!
 
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Old May 1, 2007 | 10:08 PM
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That rock has to be a first. Just think if that got into an injector!
 
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Old May 1, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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I don't know what the schematic is for the fuel lines, but that is some good hard plumbing work. As for that rock. WTF can I say. Never seen anything like it.
 
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Old May 1, 2007 | 11:24 PM
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what is the cackle that needs to be cured?
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 96powerstroke
what is the cackle that needs to be cured?
The air in the fuel system and the #6 and #8 injector firing one after the other in the firing order. If you have a stock truck, you must have noticed the 7.3 cackle as compared to other diesels. This is a design flaw. The truck can be made to run much quieter and better with a few simple mods. There is any number of EPA and safety reasons that the trucks were made the way they were but these cackle mods are tried and true proven to work. Eliminating the air from the fuel system not only quiets the injectors but also increases their service life. Air is a poor lubricant on an injector plunger.
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 12:31 AM
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hey i got a question, in machinistikas ccv mod picture, he has it going striaght down, and everyone that has done it on here has always gone over the brake booster and then down to prevent any oil that comes from the vent will run back into the engine, is either way not a problem then? reason i ask is cause im gonna do this mod and i want to keep the hose warm and as short as possible to prevent condensation icing up in the hose (happened to someone on FTE i remember reading about it) during the cold winters that we have, but if you guys think going over the booster and then back down near the rear of the engine would keep the tube warm then thats the route i will go.
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 12:41 AM
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I am a firm believer in straight down or downhill. I wouldn't worry so much about oil making it's way back as that is where it came from but more so about a clogged hose and then you are overpressurizing the engine beyond design specs.
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 06:56 AM
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nice job on the mods. I am thinking of doing the same thing, but i dont quite understand how to do the "crackle cure" mod. the CCV and HPX mods i know how to do from reading on the forum, but the "crackle cure" i have never been able to understand how to do.
Any help on the subject would be great, maybe a parts list or something.
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 86fu50
nice job on the mods. I am thinking of doing the same thing, but i dont quite understand how to do the "crackle cure" mod. the CCV and HPX mods i know how to do from reading on the forum, but the "crackle cure" i have never been able to understand how to do.
Any help on the subject would be great, maybe a parts list or something.
The best information I have seen is on FN74s 7.3 post http://www.7point3.com/Mods.aspx.
He used a store bought kit where I just pieced mine together.
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Tenn01PSD350
I don't know what the schematic is for the fuel lines, but that is some good hard plumbing work. As for that rock. WTF can I say. Never seen anything like it.
It is basicly the way FN74s schematic is (tying the two dead ends together to a "TEE") but on the tee outlet I used a three-way valve to 1. bleed the air back to the tank or 2. send the fuel pressure to the guage. I will probably take the guage off when I get the pressure regulator shimed to a little higher pressure. I dont think the guage can withstand the constant engine vibration. I would have to buy a glycerin filled guage for a permenant set-up but that is not my intent.The fuel pressure is only 65 P.S.I currently.BTW, the 3-way valve is either open to one port or the other or closed. I dont have an orifice like kwik dose in his C.C. so i will keep the valve closed and just bleed as needed.
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by machinistika
The best information I have seen is on FN74s 7.3 post http://www.7point3.com/Mods.aspx.
He used a store bought kit where I just pieced mine together.
That was actually my report that I did for FN74. I was his first customer and did the install on a trial basis... and it ain't coming off, either!! Does a good job!
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by machinistika
The best information I have seen is on FN74s 7.3 post...
He used a store bought kit where I just pieced mine together.
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Thanks, but that was actually my report that I did for FN74. He's the one who designed and built the kit, and I was his first customer and did the install on a trial basis... it ain't coming off, either!! Does a good job!
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 09:44 AM
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Sorry 'bout that

I had been following your report very closly. I waited for the final report before I decided to "Go for it". I did give you an atta boy for your exellent work though! Thanks again for your willingness to help the rest of us!
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 09:49 AM
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You sure did, and I appreciate that. Not being a mechanic myself, I'm happy to pitch in whenever I can find a slot where I can do so... almost as much as I am happy to learn from the rest of you guys here.
 
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