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Thanks allot, I thought that maybe the thermostat may have been stuck open. Replaced it and still have very low tempeture on the gauge. I think that possibly I may have a faulty ECT now. Looks original. For less than 20 bucks, what the heck.
I think I see now. The ECT I have with the single wire is only for temp gauge? Or the temp sensor I am looking at is different from the one I should be concerned with. I am getting trouble code for O2 sensor and running rich. I thought that maybe my temp wasn't getting up to proper level to run lean enough and causing a chain reaction giving my trouble code on the O2.
I think I see now. The ECT I have with the single wire is only for temp gauge? Or the temp sensor I am looking at is different from the one I should be concerned with. I am getting trouble code for O2 sensor and running rich. I thought that maybe my temp wasn't getting up to proper level to run lean enough and causing a chain reaction giving my trouble code on the O2.
Guess I will look further into this.
Thanks,
Jim
If your engine is not getting up to closed loop temp you should get a code. Does the upper hose ( near the alternator) get too hot to touch after a 15 min highway drive & feels hard ? If yes then likely you are running hot enough to get into closed loop fuel control.
Is the engine running rich or the fuel trim is at adaptive limit rich ?
What is the code number ?
The Aero uses 2 temperature sensors the temp sensor with one wire coming from it is for the instrument cluster it has no other function.
The temp sensor with two wires going into it is the one the PCM uses.
If the sensor is faulty the PCM will assume that the engine is cold even after its warmed up and will run with a rich fuel mixture. Since the PCM is not getting the proper temperature feedback to adjust to a proper fuel mixture after warmup.
If you are running rich check out the PCM temp sensor first.
Here is a diagram of where it is:
The water temperature indicator sensor is what the instrument cluter uses that is not the one you want.
The one labeled ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) is the one you want to check out. As you can see it has a 2 wire connector rather then the one connector on the instrument cluser sender unit.
Last edited by krankshaft; May 1, 2007 at 09:40 PM.
To rehash what others have said, the ECT has 2 wires and it feeds the computer, not the gage.
The temperature sender is much cheaper ($5) and it feeds the gage on the panel. That one actually doesn't affect your engine performance at all. And yes, it does go bad, resulting in low reading on the gage, at least on more than one occasions on my car.
I am pretty sure the engine is getting up to temp. Just the PCM doesn't think so. I get plenty of heat from the heater and yes, the hose does get hot. Sounds like it may possibly be 2 temp sensors gone bad.I will let you all know what I find.
clean the MAF and replace the O2 sensor if older than 50k miles
remove MAF element with Torx screws...soak in shot glass full of TB cleaner for 15>30 minutes...examine with magnifier lens....any dirt or crud sitll remaining=replace MAF
I am pretty sure the engine is getting up to temp. Just the PCM doesn't think so. I get plenty of heat from the heater and yes, the hose does get hot. Sounds like it may possibly be 2 temp sensors gone bad.I will let you all know what I find.
Thanks guys,
Jim
Are the plugs black/sooty? whats your mpg's like ? Fuel pressure regulator? clogged air filter, leaking injector(s). MAP/ MAF sensors. If the ECU thinks your engine is too cold for closed loop it should give a code like 116 (coolant temp higher or lower than expected). Change the 2 wire sensor first.
Front O2 sensor could be faulty. Run the engine at idle ,warmed up for a few minutes & connect an high impedance ANALOGUE multimeter to the wires from the O2 sensor, I think the engine will still run in fault mode. Needle should swing from 0.1 to 0.9 volts AC. (this may happen quite quickly the meter may not be able to respond fast enough). If it is steady at above about 0.6-0.7 volts or higher, then replace the front O2 sensor.
Are the plugs black/sooty? whats your mpg's like ? Fuel pressure regulator? clogged air filter, leaking injector(s). MAP/ MAF sensors. If the ECU thinks your engine is too cold for closed loop it should give a code like 116 (coolant temp higher or lower than expected). Change the 2 wire sensor first.
Front O2 sensor could be faulty. Run the engine at idle ,warmed up for a few minutes & connect an high impedance ANALOGUE multimeter to the wires from the O2 sensor, I think the engine will still run in fault mode. Needle should swing from 0.1 to 0.9 volts AC. (this may happen quite quickly the meter may not be able to respond fast enough). If it is STEADY (no switching) at above about 0.6-0.7 volts or higher, then replace the front O2 sensor.
Aeroman.
To get the real picture you need to monitor Fuel trim. If Long term fuel trim ( LTFT) is - 10% or more,then that is a clue that some other reason is causing the rich mixture condition in the engine. Negative fuel trim means the EEC is trying to "lean" out the mixture from a monitored rich condition from the O2 sensor. The EEC monitors O2 switching every drive cycle & if the O2 sensor fails the test limits, then a code will be set (OBD2), not sure about OBD1, but I'm pretty sure that the system can test the O2 sensors. If no code then as far as the EEC is concerned the sensor is O.K.
no way to monitor LTFT on 95 Ford OBDI EEC-IV system
Not strictly true , you can still use dataloggers, not sure where the tap in is to the EEC, (is it the J3 service port?), it's how the enthusiasts tune up their engines nowadays, they even reprogram the tables for injection time etc. http://webpages.charter.net/eecanalyzer/Tuners.htm http://www.tweecer.com/
Aeroman.
Last edited by Aeroman59; May 6, 2007 at 07:43 AM.
most 4L mudder, rock and creek crawler and logging road racers here convert over to a OBDII EEC-V harness, sensors and PCM
much easier to tune and troubleshoot
the EEC-IV stuff is disappearing quickly, almost no support