What type of oil do you recommend for the Ford Y Block?

 

Try this link for more info.

TC

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ppet_cam_tech/

 

Thanks Tom - I read the article and found it of interest. I was turned on to an additive in the Y Block Forum by Hughes Engines USA. You might find this of interest as well.

........I just spoke with the folks at Hughes Engines Inc regarding the "Extreme Pressure Oil Additive." As a point of clarification here is what I was told. This additive will work with any motor oil and provides the protection that the CI-4 rated oil used to provided to motors like the Y Block. I was also told that the OLDSMOBILE, MOPAR and FORD guys are using it. One pint will treat 5 quarts of oil.

Direct from the Hughes WEBSITE: (HUGHES WEBSITE LINK)

Save Those Flat Tappet Cam Lobes!

Over the past 10 years or so all cam manufacturers have seen an increase in flat tappet cam failures, particularly in the high performance arena. We have spent close to a year researching oils and additives to try and find a product that could eliminate this problem. We have found it! Hughes Engines Extreme Pressure Lubricant is a state of the art additive package that is compatible with standard (mineral based) oils or synthetics. To complement this highly specialized additive package a proven frictional modifier, Micron Moly® is further blended into the oil treatment. Micron Moly® is a liquid soluble type of moly that plates to the metal surfaces of the engine. Once plated, the moly forms a long lasting lubricant film which prevents the metal surfaces from coming into contact with each other. By preventing metal to metal contact, damaging frictional wear is eliminated, which leads to less downtime and longer equipment life. This additive should be used with all flat tappet camshafts. We suggest using this with your break-in oil and at every oil change. One pint will treat up to 5 quarts of oil. Order in cases of 12 pints for only $6.99 a pint. Case lot purchases must be made by phone. Be sure and ask for the case price!

Hopefully this will help others too.

BLP

 

Not to be a contrarian (is that a word?)

But, why would I want to use an oil that required an after market additive when I could just use something like Chevron DELO 15W40, Shell Rotella 15W40, or other well known diesel type oil that most of the camshaft manufacturer/grinders suggest using anyway?

I am always suspicious of companies that hawk their own branded secret sauce snake oil . They do not make the stuff. They just put their name on it and sell it (at a profit ...as it should be of course...)

Most of the Cam manufacturers like Comp/Isky/etc, usually tell you 'what' to use not 'whose' to use. Since they usually aren't selling the "stuff" or telling you where to buy it (as in GM EOS) I tend to believe them.


Just another worthless opinion on my part....take it for what it's worth!!

 

Synicism noted, BUT, in this case, it is because Big Brother has decreed that the zinc in Rotella and Delo must be removed so the dirty diesels will not harm their newly required catalytic converters. New API spec is CJ4 as opposed to CI4 (conspiracy theorists would make a case for the similarity in appearance).

I bought several gallons of the old Rotella CI4 before the inventory was gone. Just noticed in today Tractor Supply they still have some of their own brand w/ CI4.

TC

 

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD class=smalltxt vAlign=top>Here's an article that you might find of interest. Flat Tappet Cam Tech - Righting the Wrongs
Flat tappet cams have been failing at an alarming rate lately. We dig into what causes these failures, how to fix them and how to prevent future failures. ( CLICK here for Article Link)

BLP
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

I sent a question to the folks at Rotella a few days ago ...... You may find this of interest.************************************************** ***************************************

Q: I have an older Gasoline engine from 1956. I am looking for a 30W Single Grade oil that meets CI-4 Ratings. The oil that was previously in this motor was a 30W non-detergent oil. Any recommendations for a Rotella / Shell product solution?

A: The latest API specifications for diesel engine oils pertain specifically to multigrade types, so you won't find single grade oil that meets CI-4. In addition, all API specs beginning with SC and CD (including CI-4) are for detergent oils. If you require non-detergent oil, we don't currently sell a product for your application.

If you switch to detergent oil, you could use Shell Rotella T Oil SAE 30 - with API classifications CF-2/CF/SH, it would provide excellent lubrication performance. However, since you've been running non-detergent oil, it WILL clean up the engine, which may or may not be a good thing. At the very least, if you switch, you should monitor for potential screen or filter plugging, and perhaps shorten drain intervals for a time.

Thank you for your interest in Shell Rotella Products!

Regards,
Edward Calcote
Staff Chemist, Shell Lubricants US Technical Information Center
Rotella

************************************************** ****************************************

So, I am considering switching to a 15W40 Rotella T Heavy Duty Detergent Oil or the Shell Rotella T Oil SAE 30 - with API classifications CF-2/CF/SH and using the Hughes Engine Oil Additive mentioned in previous posts......Since my motor is not a racing motor, that I know of, and is most likely going to be used as a driver I'm leaning to the 15W40.

BLP

 

So is there any other opinions on the 15W40 Rotella T for the Y blocks? And will it by it's self save our tappets?

 

You're absolutely right! They are pulling the zddp out of the newer diesel spec oils. Presumably because most are "roller follower" valve trains they don't have the same problem as flat tappet engines. I guess the zinc screws up the after-treatment system...


I don't know what we should do except maybe put rollers in out Y-blocks or find a source of zddp or a substitute.

I'll stick with Rotella or Delo until it's all the new stuff and I suppose I'll have to use the dreaded snake oil additive suggested by Comp Cams Hotrod mag, Crane Cams and others...

http://www.compcams.com/information/...chBulletin.pdf



If you are going to switch any engine to a detergent oil after using a non-detergent. Make sure it's clean first or you may destroy it quickly. Think about a piece of sludge that breaks off somewhere in an oil pressure port feeding a main or rod bearing.....starving that bearing and seizing it, spinning it and then.....breaking it (the rod!)

Y-blocks were never "spec'd" to run with non-detergent oil. Detergent oils were available in the fifties. That's one of the reasons you need a filter on the y-blocks...detergent oil keeps the "stuff" in suspension so the filter can grab it as it goes by.


If I got an engine that someone told me was only ran on non-detergent oil I'd plan to take it apart.


I run 15w40 Rotella or Delo which ever is cheapest, in everything I own.



Oh boy! An oil thread....now we can all get emotional!! (this has NEVER happened!!)




Cheers,



Rick

 

I contacted Lucas Oil today. I was told to use 15w40 Magnum and 20% of their heavy duty stabilizer. They said the Magnum oil has a high zinc content which is good for the flat tappets. I am going to give it a try for the trip to Knoxville next week if I can find someone that has it in stock. I will let you know how it works.

 

Coastal 15W40, carried at Autozone and other places still is rated CI-4, not the CI-4 Plus like the current Rotella and other 15W40s. I pick up a gallon each trip to town, stocking up before they change too!

 

ALL have changed CI4+ or CJ4.

The CI4 still there is old inventory moving thru the system. Most places do not rotate non perishible inventory (first in first out).

TC

 

The wear problem on the Y-Block lifters is mostly because of lack of oil getting to the lifter. There is a correction shown in one of my Y-Block overhaul books that involves grinding a V shaped channel beside each lifter boss in the engine valley. Then you drill a small hole at the bottom of the V just where collected oil will drip onto the lifter foot.

 

We have been flogging this subject for a long time, literally for years. Do a search on ZDDP and you'll find several threads about it. Try adding STP oil treatment, GM EOS, or WalMart TechLube. Warning; ZDDP causes sludge, so try not to overdo it. Or look for offroad motorcycle oil with the ZDDP.

I had done a web search about the subject a few years ago and found a pdf file about some research done by a Texas university tribologist. He had looked at the surface of a camshaft using a scanning electron microscope and found that the ZDDP minus the
Zinc had bonded to the Iron Oxide on the suface, leaving a fishscale-like layer on the cam. The subject of his research was finding a substitute for ZDDP because the Phosphorus in the ZDDP was damaging to catalytic converters. At the time of the publication, they had not yet found a better lubricant for that application.