i went to the junkyard with my buddy yesturday in search of a bench seat for an old F250 he is restoring, i saw an 86 F350 sitting in the corner. i wandered over and saw it said diesel on the side.......hmm i was like maybe the engine is still intact.

walked over and the only thing missing off of the truck was the rear end, rad support, rad, and vac pump. the rest of the engine was untouched. crawled underneath it and looked at the block heater, no cracks and the oil pan was bone dry. went back up top and looked at the valve covers and saw they had new gaskets and that the block had hardly any oil sludge on it, i mean i can still see the grey paint under the exhaust manifolds.

the sticker says its an august 85' motor. 175horse.

it has a new oilpan gasket and rear main, IP, returnlines, and the injectors look like they have been replaced at one point.

the engine rolls over smoothly and has compression, lots of it. it took me struggling with a breaker bar to rotate it past the compression strokes.

has a motorcraft psd oil filter on it and a wix fuel fitler....it looks to have been decently cared for.

we pulled it in about 1.5hrs. lots of bs time haha

best part is i bought it for 150 bucks. i have the air filter housing and everything, wiring, starter.

i have a few questions though

the engine came from an automatic and my truck is a stick. can i put a pilot bushing in the back of the crank without machining??

i am planning on rebuilding it.

there is place for something to screw into like a plug on the gear train cover on the driverside just below the IP, is it just a plug? it has both oil and water senders on it. i think its just a place for a tool or something to screw into for timing. i have a pic of it.

i am so happy. i am putting it in my 85' with a 300.

any ideas?

 

Are you talking about the tach sender location?

Is the 85 a light duty or a heavy duty?
Is the rear axle a floating axle? (Big hub sticking through the wheel)

 

it was an HD and its the temp gauge sender. thanks.

there is another sender on the driver side head looks like another water temp sender?

and behind the cdr is a plug with a square hole in the middle of it, it goes all the way through the plug, is it supposed to be like that?

how unreasonable would it be for me to think that this thing would run? it has great compression. if i went ahead and put it in my truck do you think it would run?

i pulled all the gp's and they werenot swollen or hard go get out. they all looked cylindrical and dark grey. is that good? i have heard to use autolites. these said AC on them

the mark on the IP for timing is little towards the pass side of the straight up mark. not much bout half a millimeter or so maybe less.

how do i hook the tach up?

thanks DT

 

DONT use Autolite GPs, spend the money and get the Motorcraft Beru plugs from autozone. Autolites are the ones that have a tendancy to bulge, bad news if you break a little piece off.

 

ok good thing i didn't buy any yet. i knew autolite was either the good one or bad.....bad........

i'll get some motorcrafts. thanks

think it will run?

 

The plug is actually what holds the valley pan down at the back.
It also has a drain in it which is what you are seeing.

The other sending unit is for the over temp light in the diesel light dash panel.


I only use Beru glow plugs.

I hope you also got the bell housing, gassers bell housings will not bolt up to a diesel engine.
Motor mounts would be another thing you will need.
Fuel system will need some upgrades.
Cooling system will probably need overhauled as well.
You will also need to upgrade the batteries to duals.

I would not be surprised if it fired right up.

 

While I am pointing out temp sensors, I might as well show you the one by the thermostat housing that controls the timing advance and fast idle solenoids.

 

haha 3 temp switches... i have 2 of them so i have to get the third

the tranny it had was a c-6, i have to go find a diesel bellhousing from a stick truck.

i am planning on restoring this truck over the summer now that i have my TJ fixed up 4" more.

have been researching this conversion for along time.............i don't know everything. but thats what everyone is here for. and i really appreciaate ya'lls help.

what would involve with the injection upgrades?

i'm a diesel junky at heart, tractors we have, trucks at work and farm......and my dream has always been to make this truck diesel.


i painted the engine dark ford blue, with aluminum paint on the valve covers, it looks good.


did the 6.9's have a dmfw? or was that just the 73's?

 

oh another thing, there is a round thing screwed into the block at the rear with a harness pluggedinto it, is that the glow plug controller? its right infront of the oil sender on the driverside

 

The round top thing with wires is the glow plug controller.
The temp switches and sending unit should be in the engine already.
My advice would be to use a mechanical temp gauge, the stock ones are worthless.
Same for the oil pressure gauge.

For performance mods, air is needed more than fuel to increase the power output.
After you get enough air you can increase the fuel delivery.

I missed the pilot bearing in your original post, that will be no problem to install.

Dual mass flywheels were transmission dependant.
The 87 6.9 with a ZF 5 had a dual mass flywheel.
The 4 speeds never had one.

 

i believe it would fire it up on the ground before i went to all the work of installing it. there is a reason it was in a junk yard. my F350 was a nice looking truck and the fellow who sold it to me said it had engine problems. he was right, it had a loose rod. then again, the engine could be perfect and the truck was junked for other problems.

 

i already have an autometer mechanical oil pressure guage on my 300.. i am going to try to get a pyro and mount them in a a pillar pod for a 93-97 truck.

noticed that the air filter housing, the hole into the intake is only half of the size that hte screen on the intake is. i figure its worth more air flow. what is behind that?

i am probalyl going to attempt to find a turbo at some point.

one temp sensor is gone. someone removed it.

how would i wire up the gps? i have the whole harness. do the orang wires with the crimped on rings go to a solinoid that gets power when i would press a button, and inturn give the gp controler power? or am i over thinking this

 

the driveshaft in the truck was twisted.........so i figure that could of been the cause.


so i could make a cradle to fire it up ont he ground

doi need a bellhouseing bolted to the motor before i use the starter? would the starter break the adapter if no bellhousing isused?

 

i just sat the 7.3 on a truck tire(without the rim) and hooked water and power to it and fired it up. i do not remember if i had a bell housing. you need to ask dave or someone more knowledgable than me about the bell housing. i don't think i had a bell housing.

the twisted drive shaft is a good clue. prehaps the engine is solid.

 

yes and the c6 transfluid smelled burned worse than our 46re that was totally messed up. so either the tranny was toast or the driveshaft was the culprit

it was a construction truck and my buddy and i were wondering if it was some guys work truck and he couldn't afford to mess with it or something after whatever it was that broke, broke.

it had ladder racks on it and suck


how bad will she rock back and forth?