I was at the drag strip tonight, talkin with some fellas about the 7.3. Almost everyone runs some type of intake mod, regardless of preference this is for all who have the AIR TEMP sensor zip tied to the bottom of the master cylinder.....
What this guy told me is that when we/i did that, the air temp especiially at idle or on a dyno, is hotter than it should be. When there is air moving through the engine compartment its naturally cooler but not as cool if the temp sensor was still in the intake system. He says I have to put the air temp sensor back in the snorkel, for the PCM to give it an accurate measurement for amount of fuel.

He says all you have to do is make a slit approx 1/8 in the rubber boot just before the CCV or the piece of pipe we use to bypass it and push the sensor into the slit.


Some may already have done this and im sorry if this is redundant. Its late so i havent tried it yet but will tomorrow and post any results. He also said it would bring EGT down as well. He said it will be a noticable improvement by the PCM adding more fuel to the mix, about what most people notice from disabling the wastegate on a stock turbo with stock tunes, is about what he said it would gain.

 

Just cut a slit and push it in the hole, and not seal it? At the equivalent of 20,000 gallons of air per gallon of fuel, that is alot of dirt getting through that slit. Where is Alan to tell us the parameters that the AIT sensor controls?

 

guy told me it wouldnt suck dirt? Maybe we could drill a hole in the ccv pipe and use a grommet? He said mainly just enough of a hole to fit the actual sensor probe in not the plastic piece attached to the probe

 

He really thinks there's going to be any difference between having the sensor right next to the filter or just inside it?

Kinda like standing on one side of a screen door, or the other.

The fellas with big power mostly run the AFE stage II ... does anyone know if it has a little spot to plug in the sensor? I don't think it does, but I'm not sure.

I know Kwikk used to have his tymar setup with a rubber grommet in the end of it, and he plugged the sensor in there, so that's always an option if the sensor just being nearby bugs ya.

 

i have the AFE stage 2.. standing in front of the truck looking at the filter. the sensor is near the bottom behind the filter in the lower left hand corner where the filter hooks to the tube..in the pic below you can see the AFE sticker.. its strait down from that.

 

The IAT sensor's primary function is to measure ambient air temperature in order to determine when the exhaust back pressure device is needed. It is also used as input to determine idle kicker function. (High Idle)

Detection/Management
An IAT signal that is detected out of range high or low by the PCM will cause the engine to ignore the IAT signal, disable exhaust back pressure operation and assume an ambient temperature of 15°C (59°F).

On the 7.3 the MAT (Manifold Air Temp) sensor is used to adjust fuel mapping not the intake air temp.

 

My sensor is just laying on the fender well under the 6637 filter where it's been for over a year, no issues whatsoever.

 

I tried it, I installed IAT sensor in the inlete after the 6637 fileter, I might be dreaming, but it seems to have helped SOME, EGT seems a little lower, high RPM runs never reached 1100!!!!! Seems a little to easy to be true??
Richard

 

I went to do it this morning real quick and the wired isnt long enough i dont think to make it into the snorkel? Did you take it out of the harness to get it into the snorkel?

I know thats what the guy told me he said he didnt know exactly why it worked but it did and so easy

 

I've posted several times that my under the hood temp measurements show a much hotter ambient air temp at the fuse box location than the ambient air temp coming into a cold air intake from a hole cut in the radiator shroud. There is also convective cooling of a sensor mounted in the air stream. Now just how the PCM might use this sensor data to produce the reported improvements needs to be understood. According to amiller93's post, moving the sensor should have no effect, but I've just spent the last several days pumping Jody for info on several mods I'm going to do, and he says that on one including him understands all of the 7.3 L PCM functionally, and he's still learning new things as he continues hacking into the Ford code. In fact, I learned that disconnecting the EBP sensor is a bad idea because in addition to controlling the EBP valve, it's also used to control fueling! I'm going to post this info as a new thread so more can see it.

Although I don't dispute that this mod might have some performance benefit, I would be concerned about the possibility of sucking that sensor into the turbo. There can be as much as 750 cfm or more of air flowing through that rubber inlet to the turbo! That's why the sensor is normally mounted upstream of an air filter.

 

The guy at the track said realistically all you need is a SMALL hole, enough to stick the business end of the sensor in the flow of air. I dont think it would suck the whole thing into the turbo if thats what your saying. If thats the case then maybe a "grommet mod slot type deal" can be outfitted to your 4" piece of exhaust pipe for the CCV mod could be utilized to secure the sensor?

 

I was just mentioning my concern about possible turbo damage for others that might be considering the mod. I changed from an under the hood air filter to a cold air AIS several years ago when my measurements showed just how hot the ambient air is that's sucked into a filter located under the hood. I also have a TAG II installed, and if it's good for nothing else (which I think it is), at least it will stop things from being sucked into the turbo!

 

Ernest did you find out any more info about this IAT sensor?
I was hoping that the guy that tried it could tell me how he made the wires longer to fit into the snorkel. I could cut the wires and butt splice together but i dont know what the conductor is inside, so im not going to cut it

 

Kwikk cut and spliced more wire into his so he could install it in his 6637, no problems AFAIK.

 

Hes one i had hoped would respond to this thread for his input. I noticed one wire is a heavier gauge than the other, do you know if he did this or just spliced the same gauge on both and what type of conductor did he use. Im an electrician and know the importance of voltage drop and resistance on this type of deal especially when dealing with electronics. Thx for your input, U from Wy?