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When I rebuilt my first 460, it had the #7 port rear bolt already broken, but the rest came out fine. I warmed up the motor and let it cool back down, and removed them when the manifold was only slightly warm to the touch. Right or wrong, this process worked, and the motor had about 210k on it at the time.
The jig I made to drill out the broken bolt was off by a few thousandths, at a slight angle, but I drilled it out to 25/64ths, threw in a helicoil, and she worked just fine.
When I rebuilt my first 460, it had the #7 port rear bolt already broken, but the rest came out fine. I warmed up the motor and let it cool back down, and removed them when the manifold was only slightly warm to the touch. Right or wrong, this process worked, and the motor had about 210k on it at the time.
The jig I made to drill out the broken bolt was off by a few thousandths, at a slight angle, but I drilled it out to 25/64ths, threw in a helicoil, and she worked just fine.
I have one that's stripped out on mine I need to work on. I've never used a helicoil before. How hard is it to put one in?
I broke 2 bolts today after using PB blaster and WD40 by both spraying when hot and spraying a week ahead of time for 2 or 3 applications.
3 of the bolts had already broken off on their own so now I'm looking for options since drilling with a right angle drill is tough since we cant get a lot of leverage on the front bolts behind ths shock tower.
ANyone have any ideas on how to get them out? Can we torch them out?
Here's a pic to keep everyone from trying this at home
I was just mustering up the courage to pull the manifolds on mine.... and then I come on here, and see something like that ^. The rear passenger bolt has already sheared off, but there appears to be plenty to grab... I have nightmares about many more breaking flush off with the head, and then I'm pulling the head, which I DONT wanna do...
When I forst got the truck I noticed the leak and found a few of the rear bolts to be loose... Maybe there is hope...
I've always had luck as someone else had mentioned with getting the engine hot, and then allowing to cool enough so that you can work...
She's my daily driver so I don't wanna get myself stuck...
Maybe ill continue to live with the leak
Still planning on gathering parts to do this... But looking around I see no "quality" exhaust manifold kits. It appears Dorman is one of the few who make them? I've never had success with their junk... Dealership I guess?
Still planning on gathering parts to do this... But looking around I see no "quality" exhaust manifold kits. It appears Dorman is one of the few who make them? I've never had success with their junk... Dealership I guess?
You might consider a pair from the JY and then take them to a machine shop and have the mounting surfaces trued up. Just a thought.
I can't imagine it being very fun with a 90 degree drill with the heads still on, but if you have them out and get it drilled straight, it is cake.
I had to do a couple on my 89. I took the front wheel off and pried the inner fender liner up out of the way and it wasn't that bad at all. You could get to them easy then.
460 factory exhaust manifolds are known for expanding and breaking the head area adjacent to the outer mounting stud. After you get a cast iron expert to weld up your head, you prevent it from happening again by drilling the mounting holes in the manifolds somewhat oversize. Leave one near the center of the manifold alone, to help locate the manifold. Drill the holes near it 1/64" over, and the outer holes 1/32" over. If you haven't had this happen yet, and you take the manifolds off for any reason, you should think about drilling them out this way in advance.
MIG welders must have been invented for removing broken studs, they work so well. You don't have to be a good welder to do this. Build up a glob of weld atop the broken stud and wind it out while it's hot with a Vise-Grip. If you break off the glob of weld, make another. Alternatively, some prefer to weld a nut (on the inside) to the broken stud, and wind it out with a ratchet and socket.
I usually weld the mountain of bead and then use this to center a nut.
Weld around the nipple I made to the inside threads of the nut.
Getting the bolt glowing hot tends to break the rust down.
Removing the wheel and plastic inner fender makes access a LOT easier!
In 2008 when I swapped engines I installed regular stainless steel bolts.
It's great!
They don't seize and they heads are still full hex.
A buddy of mine had two broken off bolts and he took it in to a muffler shop and they just torched the old bolts out. Took them twenty minutes and charged 100 bucks but he didn't mind at all!
when he torched them out, did the exhaust shop have to re thread the holes?
I had this very same thing happen when I did the headers on my 97 f250. I broke #7 bolts. I made attempt at welding and torching them out but failed. By the time I tried removing the bolts I could had the head pulled off by then. To reassure that don't have any leaks again and again, I used Remflex gaskets. Remflex Exhaust Header / Manifold Gaskets I've never had to re torque them since install. well worth the $75 for the set.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCE-Gaskets-4135-Exhaust-Gaskets-Header-Copper-Ford-Big-Block-385-Series-Pair-/191354360330?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c8d9bd20a
These are the gaskets I like to use. They work very well for headers OR manifolds.
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Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
