I'm haveing a problem removing the front of the rear leafspring I can't get a good shot at the back of it to tap it out. I got the rear mounts out by smackin them with a drift punch and a 2lbs hammer. is there a better way or tool to get it out?

 

First off, it would really help all of us involved with this great site if you would put some clue to what you are working on in the title to your thread. You will get alot better response.

Now that we got that out of the way here's a few things you can do to get the pins out of the front hangars;

1. go out to your shop and get a coarse wood rasp, if you're right handed start with your left hand, make a fist, then take the rasp and make several passes accross your knuckles, now switch over and do the other hand, don't stop until you are bloody
2. get a handful of sand and other debris (preferable something with a bunch of rusty crud in it) using one bloddy hand hold the eyelid of one eye open and pack the sand mixture in until you are seeing stars and your eye is watering uncontrollably
3. pour remaining sandmixture down the collar of your shirt
4. smack your head against the wall several times to mimic busting it on the frame as you try to sit up in a hurry to get the sand mixture out of your eye.
5. place your hand on the bench and repeatedly smash your fingers with a hammer until numb

OK, now you are ready to tackle the spring perch.

On my truck the previous owner used a smoke wrench to burn a hole in the rear crossmember to facilitate geting a long punch to the back of the spring perch. Great theory if he would have lined up the holes. I ended up using a long section of 1/2" round bar and a punch that I had to bend a bit to make it work.
other people have had decent luck with removing the grease zert and using a slide hammer in its place (if the bed is on the truck this won't work)

Good luck, its not a fun job
Bobby

 

I am assuming you have a 48-52 where the access hole in the frame is covered by the crossmember? If so on mine I drilled a 1/2" hole in crossmember in line with the hole in the frame. I then used a peice of 3/8" rod about 16" long as a punch to knock the pin out.

Before that I tried various methods such as fabricating a slide hammer that threaded into the grease fitting hole, and bending up an offset punch to reach behind the crossmember. Neither method worked.

Hope this helps

 

I'm sorry I was in a rush it's a 48 F2

 

No problem.

Since we deal with several different body styles on this forum it helps you get the answers you need from those that have experience with that particular style truck.

As long as we discussing general forum stuff it also helps if your location shows up on your thread. It will typically appear in the upper right corner of your thread. To get it to show up there click on "user CP", then "edit profile" then down at the bottom of the page is a box titled "additional information" if you fill out your location there it will show up in your posts. I know it sounds a bit silly but it can be really helpful to know what part of the world the questions are coming from.

Good luck with the spring perches, they can be a real pain in the rear
Bobby

 

When I replaced the rear springs on my 56, I used all of the methods mentioned. I had to do that job before finding FTE, or before buying a Shop Manual, so I had to rely on my own (limited) wits. I earned my bloody knuckles and head bumps on the job.

Of course, like everything else on my truck, I had to do it over (for reasons better not explained here). I then was an FTE member and learned that the easiest way to drive the pins out is by using an air hammer and punch. Much less effort, and I could fish the punch around to find the frame hole on the perch side of the rail. It worked so well, I can't wait to do it again.

It does help to remove the locking cross pin before trying the air hammer thingy.

 

I bought another truck with good rear springs, cut off the back half of the frame behind the cab and welded it to my front half.

Seriously, it's that bad!

CHAZ

 

thanks for all your help I'm a little better off the frame is totaly stripped and is sitting on blocks

 

Thanks for that, Colonel --- errr, Bobby!

 

. go out to your shop and get a coarse wood rasp, if you're right handed start with your left hand, make a fist, then take the rasp and make several passes accross your knuckles, now switch over and do the other hand, don't stop until you are bloody
2. get a handful of sand and other debris (preferable something with a bunch of rusty crud in it) using one bloddy hand hold the eyelid of one eye open and pack the sand mixture in until you are seeing stars and your eye is watering uncontrollably
3. pour remaining sandmixture down the collar of your shirt
4. smack your head against the wall several times to mimic busting it on the frame as you try to sit up in a hurry to get the sand mixture out of your eye.
5. place your hand on the bench and repeatedly smash your fingers with a hammer until numb

OK, now you are ready to tackle the spring perch.

Now that's dam funny right there. I don't care who you are...

 

Bobby, just when you're down in the dumps over something not going right, somebody comes along and gives you a good laugh.

Thanks for the chuckles, Jim

 

LOL......

What can I say, you caught me red handed....good on you mate!

Bobby

 

Yo Flushed up...sounds like you got some good advice and a couple of chuckles as well. This site is the best...someone here has BTDT at least once and this can save you a lot of time and many busted knuckles - wood rasp across the knuckles and sand in the eyes - you gotta love it. Look at all big hammer work as "therapy".

OilLeaks

 

It's a learning process and loving it