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74 f100 dying

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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 10:45 AM
  #1  
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Angry 74 f100 dying

Hi,
I have a 1974 f100 with a 302, holley 600 carb, blaster 2 coil, the problem im having is that it will die, just like it would if you turned the key off, it will do this when the truck is just idling, and if you are driving down the road, eventually it will start back, it does it regardless if the engine is hot or cold. Anybody got any ideas?
 
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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Broken40
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From: Emmett, ID
That' sounds like yer fuel pump may be takin a dive on ya...i would replace the fuel pump....cuz if it just dies while driving down the road and starts back up again.....yeah i would say yer fuel pumps takin a poo.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by klallred
Hi,
I have a 1974 f100 with a 302, holley 600 carb, blaster 2 coil, the problem im having is that it will die, just like it would if you turned the key off, it will do this when the truck is just idling, and if you are driving down the road, eventually it will start back, it does it regardless if the engine is hot or cold. Anybody got any ideas?
Yes.

Engine dies, then restarts after a bit. Hmmm....

Still have the Ford DuraSpark electronic ignition system? Ford mechanics of the 1970's called DuraSpark "NeverSpark" because with a few exceptions, the modules were crappola. The scenario...truck runs fine...then dies suddenly, then restarts. this goes on for awhile, then one day, it dies and won't start again, because the module is cooked. If this turns out to be the problem (very likely), replace both the ignition module and the pickup coil in the dizzy.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 12:45 PM
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Broken40
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From: Emmett, ID
so n.d. why would the fuel pump not be a sign of this issue.....i figured if it stops running and the spark is still there....and it starts back up (fuel pump) the engine reignites the fuel and the rig starts back up....just curious, makes for a good convo topic

thanks.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 12:48 PM
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I vote for replacing the ingition module also. You could take yours into a parts store and have it tested as well.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Broken40
so n.d. why would the fuel pump not be a sign of this issue.....i figured if it stops running and the spark is still there....and it starts back up (fuel pump) the engine reignites the fuel and the rig starts back up....just curious, makes for a good convo topic

thanks.
The problem reeks of a bad ignition module. Die..wait a bit...restart...die wait a bit....restart. The modules are placed too close to the heat radiating left exhaust manifold, this causes them to overheat. When the module cools, the vehicle restarts (the modules were moved further back and down the left fender apron in 1987). Sooner or later the modules will burn up.


Testing a module on a autopart store tester may not work...Heat is the enemy.
 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Apr 25, 2007 at 01:54 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 11:20 PM
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From: hohenwald, tn
i vote for the pickup. he says it dies hot and cold, if it were the module they usually act stupid when hot. buy an inline spark tester, then you can check if its a spark problem.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 12:15 AM
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From: Emmett, ID
oh ok....i see now....when the module gets so hot that it can't function it will kill the spark.....then when the engine cools down(so does the module)it will start the spark again and the truck starts back up.....i see.....i appreciate you explaining that to me, thanks......so do you think he can buy a new one and relocate it to another spot on the fender or what not...i don't have a clue as to what it looks like unfortunatly.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 07:50 AM
  #9  
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Yep, you can still buy them. I think I got mine at AZ. I learned to just keep a spare on hand...they're not hard to replace. It's a box about 4x5 by maybe 2 inches deep mounted to the driverside inner fender...it SHOULD have spacers underneath it...if it doesn't, that adds to the heat problem.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 07:52 AM
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Just put a new control module in 2 weeks ago, could somthing be causing it to short out, thanks for the imput, keep it coming.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 01:17 AM
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the new control module could also be faultly. Years ago, i replaced my original one that was one my 76 f-100. To a suggustion of a friend. The new one was fine for a couple of days, them took a big nasty going to work one night. When it went, i did not know what was going on, and spent a very cold night in the truck.
The funny part, was that i had the original one just behind the seat. Well i did not think that it was the modular that was causing trouble.
Do you still have the old one?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 02:48 AM
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If you have the red module...it has been a problem since 1976. Many auto parts stores sell "rebuilt" modules, rebuilt meaning cleaned up. If you have the red module, new or rebuilt..that could be your problem.

RED module: Plastic square where wires feed to module.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 12:51 PM
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Intermittent problems are a bugger to figure out


When an engine runs out of fuel it BOGS out.

When an engine no longer receives Spark.....the power loss is immediate.

Decaying Rubber fuel lines can seep air and cause intermittent fuel loss.

Fuel pump sucks air and not fuel.

The sock on the pick up tube in the fuel tank can plug and unplug occasionally causing intermittent fuel loss.

How to check for loss of ignition spark?

wire in a Test light or analog meter to the + terminal of the coil.... for driving it like that...when the engine dies note whether the power shut off to the coil at that time.

If it did then you an Ignition switch to coil problem.

One can also do this test to the pickup module of the distributor.

Just make sure all the jumper wiring is secure
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by klallred
Hi,
I have a 1974 f100 with a 302, holley 600 carb, blaster 2 coil, the problem im having is that it will die, just like it would if you turned the key off, it will do this when the truck is just idling, and if you are driving down the road, eventually it will start back, it does it regardless if the engine is hot or cold. Anybody got any ideas?
It could be that your ignition coil is "on the blink", maybe a short in its windings.



If you decide to get a new distributor, consider our custom curved Duraspark Distributor built with our new Full Length Oil Impregnated Bronze Bushing. The full length bushing improves timing stability and spark scatter. If stock appearance is not an issue, take a look at our one piece D.U.I. Distributor. Whether you choose the Duraspark or the D.U.I., we curve each on a distributor machine based on your engine combination. Please see them at:

http://www.performancedistributors.c...stributors.htm
 
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