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Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid (EPC)
Torque Converter Control Solenoid (TCC)
Intermediate Clutch Solenoid
Direct Clutch Solenoid
Low/Reverse Clutch Solenoid
Overdrive Clutch Solenoid
Coast Clutch Solenoid
There is a correpsonding pressure switch for each solenoid ONLY in mid to late 03MY transmissions; otherwise the 7 solenoids are the only hydraulic controls other than the single manual valve in the transmission. The manual valve differentiates only between the Forward Clutch and Reverse Clutch (as far as hydraulics are concerned).
IMHO, replacing the EPC and Direct Solenoid every 35k-40k miles is more of a maintenance item than a repair item. Failure of either one (which can occur at any time) is sure death for the transmission.
That will teach me to look in my 03 printed manual more closely. I counted the (SSPC A-E) and the (VFS A-E) seperately instead of just once.
Matt how difficult is it to change the Direct and EPC solenoids? Just drop the pan and change or is it more difficult than that?
Thanks for keeping me honest my friend.
Yep, they are very easy to change.
Drop the pan, yank the filter (which I would change while im at it) and they are held in with nothing but a 2-wire electrical connector and a small e-lock snap ring.
One more quick question, are there any A/M solenoids available that last longer than OEM?
Not currently, but there are some companies working on the issue. We will be carrying them as soon as they become available; have been waiting for a while now
I'd put money on the snap ring letting loose again. I have one truck that went through 2 cases and snap rings which did not fall within the proper build dates. So it can't be that the snap ring was junk. This one went at about 20K and can't remember how many miles, but it was 13 months later. The other went at a whopping 500 miles.
Both now have TransGo shift kits which reduce the line pressure causing less stress on the snap ring which is what was causing the problems. Also have an aftermarket snap ring.
SAME PROBLEM ON MY 2003 @ 74000mi SNAP RING WAS BACKING OUT, CAUGHT IT BEFORE IT WENT TROUGH THE CASE BUT REBUILT TRANS, PARTS AND LABOR $2,500. PROBLEMS STARED JUST LIKE YOURS DELAYED REVERSE AND DRIVE THEN BUCKING AND FLAIRING BETWEEN GEARS. THE SELONOIDS ACT LIKE MAGNETS AND PICK UP THE METAL THATS WHY THE DELAY IN R AND D. JUST WONDERING IF MY BANKS SIX GUN BUNDLE HAD ANYTHING TO DO WITH IT, THERE WAS A TSB FOR THE 2003 TORQ-SHIFT SNAP RING.
SAME PROBLEM ON MY 2003 @ 74000mi SNAP RING WAS BACKING OUT, CAUGHT IT BEFORE IT WENT TROUGH THE CASE BUT REBUILT TRANS, PARTS AND LABOR $2,500. PROBLEMS STARED JUST LIKE YOURS DELAYED REVERSE AND DRIVE THEN BUCKING AND FLAIRING BETWEEN GEARS. THE SELONOIDS ACT LIKE MAGNETS AND PICK UP THE METAL THATS WHY THE DELAY IN R AND D. JUST WONDERING IF MY BANKS SIX GUN BUNDLE HAD ANYTHING TO DO WITH IT, THERE WAS A TSB FOR THE 2003 TORQ-SHIFT SNAP RING.
The Banks 6-gun did Not help it. The Banks and all inline fuel module chips (Edge, Dr. P) only alter the fuel stategy after the PCM. The PCM and TCM are unaware of the increased Hp & Torque, so all the built-in safety features in the PCM & TCM get thrown out the window. All inline fuel modules (chips) are extremely hard on the transmission.
If you want to run increased Hp & Torque, then you need to get an SCT XcalII tuner with custom tunes. A tuner completely rewrites the PCM & TCM to properly account for all the changes and increased Hp & Torque.
Get in contact with Matt (PSD 60L Fx4) at www.lidiesel.com he is the leading 6.0 guru when it comes to performance modifications.
Yes I do plow some snow.
But I think mine was all the torq converter. There was no hole in the case if the snap ring went. The new reman trans sure runs nice.
I dono, supposedly the TC's are pretty strong. You can lose a snap ring without blowing a hole in the case, it can just 'chip' a piece out and it won't be strong enough to hold a new snap ring in place. Happened on one of mine.
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