Newbie to PSD
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2006
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Newbie to PSD
HI guys. I'm looking at purchasing a psd 99-03 range. My 94 IDI recently caught on fire and was a total loss. I've read the thread about some things to look for when buying a psd. Could someone explain some of the benefits of a psd over an idi. Also what kind of power can I expect out of one of these machines. I've heard alot of talk about costly injector jobs. Should I have them tested before I buy. My price range is probable going to push me into the 150000 to 175000 mile range. Are the early 99 models somthing I need to stay away from since it was the first new body range? Any problems with the early ones. What kind of milage can I expect out of a psd. What kind of performance mods can one make other than installing a chip? I know there are alot of questions in here but I would appreciate any help you could offer. Thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
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From: North of Greenville
WELCOME to FTE!!! I don't want to discourage you by not answering questions directly, but these types of questions are asked all the time and there is an excellent site that has compiled a lot of the answers you're looking for. The link is in my signature below.
Others will chime in before long with a few more specifics to your questions, but the link is a good starting place for you in the meantime.
Others will chime in before long with a few more specifics to your questions, but the link is a good starting place for you in the meantime.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Greeneville,TN
There are all kinds of things different on these trucks. Some have a higher horse power rating than others. Which means nothing when you start modding these trucks. You can get some pretty good hp numbers out of these trucks without changing the injectors. If you what a stronger bottom end stick with the 99-2000 and some 2001 trucks. These years of trucks have forged rods and the later yrs have the powder metal rods, which really means nothing unless you are going to go for high hp in the range over 400 hp. This is just an example of have different these trucks are. I see someone who is going to be catching some serious PMS. What do you guys think?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Bend, OR
If your looking for a good used truck, first what price range? THe later the year the more options and better looking they got... The PMR thing is over rated, once you start above 400hp you are looking at pulling the motor anyway for studs so PMR's can be swapped.
Best year 7.3... 2003... But anything other then a early 99 is great. Nothing wrong with the early 99's, just more money to mod later on because you have to swap to late 99 parts.
Best year 7.3... 2003... But anything other then a early 99 is great. Nothing wrong with the early 99's, just more money to mod later on because you have to swap to late 99 parts.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Greeneville,TN
You make some great points about studs being a requirement for more HP. However, when you start swapping out rods for good quality rods your talking about 3K or better. If the stock forged rods can handle 500-535, why swap?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
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Because it's not a given that they'll hold at that level. They may, they may not. Better to be on a safe side when you get that high and above, so as to keep your block intact.
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2006
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Best year 7.3... 2003... But anything other then a early 99 is great. Nothing wrong with the early 99's, just more money to mod later on because you have to swap to late 99 parts.[/QUOTE]
What is different about early 99 model engines and by early what exactly does that mean? how early? Thanks for the great comments I'm preatty stoked about upgrading to a psd
What is different about early 99 model engines and by early what exactly does that mean? how early? Thanks for the great comments I'm preatty stoked about upgrading to a psd
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
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I can't recall the cutoff date (or even the month) but the early 99s have a smaller turbo, smaller intake plenums, and a few other minor differences. Upgrading to a garrett ballbearing turbo, for example, will require a new pedestal and other goodies to make it work.
One general way to tell an early 99 from a late by looking at the truck is the early 99s have an emblem on the front fender, like a V10, as opposed to the PSD badge along the door.
One general way to tell an early 99 from a late by looking at the truck is the early 99s have an emblem on the front fender, like a V10, as opposed to the PSD badge along the door.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Oshkosh Wisconsin
Old post i'm bringing back here, but I'm looking at buying a superduty... i found a 99 with the badge on the door so first comes later 99... but is there any other important differences like ride quality, or the 99s are louder then the 03... or anythign like that i should keep in mind? I plan on moding the superduty, not to crazy, just enough to have fun and waste more fuel =P
Brian
Brian
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Fulltime RVer
Originally Posted by ryaneverk2
I can't recall the cutoff date (or even the month) but the early 99s have a smaller turbo, smaller intake plenums, and a few other minor differences. Upgrading to a garrett ballbearing turbo, for example, will require a new pedestal and other goodies to make it work.
One general way to tell an early 99 from a late by looking at the truck is the early 99s have an emblem on the front fender, like a V10, as opposed to the PSD badge along the door.
One general way to tell an early 99 from a late by looking at the truck is the early 99s have an emblem on the front fender, like a V10, as opposed to the PSD badge along the door.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
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From: Milroy, PA
Originally Posted by ernesteugene
The early 99's also have inferior brakes that aren't interchangeable with the later ones
EDIT: our early 99 also has the badge on the door, but the stripes on it are red, whearas the other trucks stripes are silver.
Last edited by rebelchevy02; May 24, 2007 at 11:55 PM.
Postmaster
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From: Fulltime RVer
Originally Posted by rebelchevy02
Im not sure were you came up with that information, and maybe that statement only applies to DRW trucks, but the brakes on (all SRW) our early 99, and our 01, and 02, and other 02 are all the same size. The difference in the front being the rotor sits a 1/4 inch away from the axle then the later models. And as far as the rear goes, the calipers are on opposide sides of the housing, as compared to both on the rear side on the later models. Same size rotors, as far as diameter, and thickness. All are vented rotors, so im not sure were the inferior brakes statement comes from. They are however more of a pain to get the right part number.
EDIT: our early 99 also has the badge on the door, but the stripes on it are red, whearas the other trucks stripes are silver.
EDIT: our early 99 also has the badge on the door, but the stripes on it are red, whearas the other trucks stripes are silver.
There is a TSB out that covers upgrading from the early 99 to the late 99 style calipers and rotors. In it, it states that haveing a mixture of components (pre and post) can cause shudder when braking. It is possible a mechanic has installed a mish mash of parts from both styles. In lieu of that, it is most likely the pins and time for a good rebuild.
This is correct. Replacing the calipers and rotors would not be the end of it, as it would also require new hubs and brake pads.
The front brake components on an early 99 are not the same as the 99 1/2+. The newer style caliper pins, ect. will not work on the early 99's calipers. You can upgrade the calipers and rotors to the newest units and with some quality aftermarket rotors and pads you can eliminate the brake pulsations.