Shim's
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Joined: Jul 2006
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Given the fact that most roads have a different "crown" this would be difficult to do, especially in a solid axle vehicle. As a rule, this difference should only be around 1/2 a degree. I have just measured the spring pads relative to the knuckles, (with good ball joints D50 replaced with a complete D60), and they are even. (or at least close enough for this confirmation)
I believe IFS trucks run almost 8*, and that some passenger vehicles with less spring may set caster differently from side to side to compensate for driver weight.
I believe the 2* difference in caster from one side to another is a little too far, and is contributing to the poor steering. I am still leaning towards bad ball joints, but still shrug my shoulders at the poor pinion angle. Unless the entire axle is rolled back too far, the balljoints would not explain this.
I believe IFS trucks run almost 8*, and that some passenger vehicles with less spring may set caster differently from side to side to compensate for driver weight.
I believe the 2* difference in caster from one side to another is a little too far, and is contributing to the poor steering. I am still leaning towards bad ball joints, but still shrug my shoulders at the poor pinion angle. Unless the entire axle is rolled back too far, the balljoints would not explain this.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Southern California
I'll take a picture of the pinion angle today, along with pics of how I measured the caster... I didn't check to see if the spring pad was even with the knuckle, but I can do that...
another thing I've noticed is that, as you all have said, the steering feels extremely light... the same bump that caused the first DW (didn't fight the wheel, as in I just let go, basically), I pass over yesterday... I felt it trying to act up through the wheel but I held a firm grip and nothing really happened... so, I'm gonna tighten up the steering box a little bit and see if that helps any, because like I said: it used to do this (but not that horribly) before the springs... I don't want to take it to the dealer because theyre gonna tell me its the springs...
Joey
another thing I've noticed is that, as you all have said, the steering feels extremely light... the same bump that caused the first DW (didn't fight the wheel, as in I just let go, basically), I pass over yesterday... I felt it trying to act up through the wheel but I held a firm grip and nothing really happened... so, I'm gonna tighten up the steering box a little bit and see if that helps any, because like I said: it used to do this (but not that horribly) before the springs... I don't want to take it to the dealer because theyre gonna tell me its the springs...
Joey
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Melbourne, Aus
If the steering is light... that indicates not enough caster...
As for the roads camber. Usually the caster difference is about 0.8-1deg . I know you can't accurately get a consistent camber, but a road typically has 3deg camber or so - getting up to about 12 deg in a tight high camber corner (well thats Australian roads anyway).
As for the roads camber. Usually the caster difference is about 0.8-1deg . I know you can't accurately get a consistent camber, but a road typically has 3deg camber or so - getting up to about 12 deg in a tight high camber corner (well thats Australian roads anyway).
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
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From: BC, Canada
Since you had the problem even before changing the ride height I would start by carefully checking the ball joints, tie rod ends etc.
Worn track arm bushings can cause a bad wobble.
When you say that you have light steering do you mean there is play in the steering or it's just too easy to turn? Is there any looseness in the steering box? Or in the shaft from the steering column to the box?
What kind of tires are you running? How big? How much air pressure?
Worn track arm bushings can cause a bad wobble.
When you say that you have light steering do you mean there is play in the steering or it's just too easy to turn? Is there any looseness in the steering box? Or in the shaft from the steering column to the box?
What kind of tires are you running? How big? How much air pressure?
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 241
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From: Southern California
BFG AT's, 285/75R16, stock wheels, 60/55psi front/back (didn't make a difference)... the steering feels both light and it has some play to it... haven't checked the steering box, but thats the next thing I'm doing... the tie-rods look good, but they might need to be greased, again... one thing I didn't notice that I forgot to mention is that the upper tie-rod where the pitman arm is, I can move by hand... if I move it counter-clockwise (if your looking at it from the drivers side), I can move it enough to hear a metal-on-metal "clank"... I guess there are several parts to replace first...
Joey
Joey
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