Looking for Cleaners for Head....
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2006
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Looking for Cleaners for Head....
I am in the process of changing the Spark Plugs on my 2004 5.4L SOHC Scab F150 w/ 110k miles and the 2nd plug change. Needless to say after following the Ford TSB by the book incuding using Areo Kroil Penitrating fluid from Kanolabs.com and even having a seasoned Mechanic from Ford assist in the removal, all 8 of them broke off. Well, after getting the Heads pulled, now it is time to clean the surfaces and also try to remove the carbon/ Laquar Ocating that is on the heads, and timing areas. The plugs were siezed due to Carbon not rust and that was even with Never sieze on them. I am going to apply Nickel Never Seez onto the new HT1 Plugs by Autolight.
Does anyone know of any cleaners that I can use to clean the heads that will not hurt the Valve Seals or the Rubber Oil pan gasket? What can I use to clean the gasket surface areas also to ensure that it will be a good seal? What is the best way to clean these with out sending them out?
Any information that you can give me to assist in the ease of returning the engine to service is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Does anyone know of any cleaners that I can use to clean the heads that will not hurt the Valve Seals or the Rubber Oil pan gasket? What can I use to clean the gasket surface areas also to ensure that it will be a good seal? What is the best way to clean these with out sending them out?
Any information that you can give me to assist in the ease of returning the engine to service is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Something like gumout carb + choke cleaner should remove the carbon. If it splashes on a seal or gasket, it shouldn't be any trouble, but you probably won't want to soak the entire head in it for an extended period.
Question back to you - when you do this, are you putting the antiseize all over the shaft and threads, or just on the threads?
Question back to you - when you do this, are you putting the antiseize all over the shaft and threads, or just on the threads?
MMNC (SS)(Ret)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,606
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From: SE Georgia
you've already done the hard part, so why not pull the entire engine and do a rebuild? you've got 110,000 miles right?
I'd use some carb cleaner or brake cleaner. spray a little on a rag and wipe with that rag. try to minimize the amount that runs into the engine/head. as long as you promptly wipe up any excess, I don't see it doing any damage to your engine.
Also, a dremel tool with one of those wire brushes should work wonders. Just make sure the wire brush metal is softer than the metal of the head.
I'd use some carb cleaner or brake cleaner. spray a little on a rag and wipe with that rag. try to minimize the amount that runs into the engine/head. as long as you promptly wipe up any excess, I don't see it doing any damage to your engine.
Also, a dremel tool with one of those wire brushes should work wonders. Just make sure the wire brush metal is softer than the metal of the head.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2006
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The Autolite HT2 is a hotter plug, than the stock and are used for Modified Engines. Is yours Stock? If so, you should of ordered the HT1 or the HT15. According to Autolite they currently make the following HT1, HT2, H3 and they have the recomended O.E.Replacement HT15 Listed on thier website now but I was told that it was going to be released during the forth quarter, they my have bumped it and released it early due to the inquiries. You may be able to run with the HT2 but not the HT3 (unless you hae a Blower on it and really Modified out and you are racing it). I called Autolite for more info and they suggested useing the HT15 if I could wait till it was released or go with the HT1. The Autolite Rep said that I risk doing damage to a stock engine if I use the HT2.
When I am done changing the plugs out after removing the heads and basically rebuilding the top half of the engine I am going to post Pics here along with instructions. It will be detailed with even Pics of how to clean the tapered seat on the heads. I will keep you posted...
When I am done changing the plugs out after removing the heads and basically rebuilding the top half of the engine I am going to post Pics here along with instructions. It will be detailed with even Pics of how to clean the tapered seat on the heads. I will keep you posted...
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2006
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I am planning on placing Nickel Anti Sieze on the Threads and on the tapered shaft but not on the electrode or grounding loop. Also I plan on placing some of the Nickle Anti sieze on a small brush and swabbing the tapered seat before the heads are back in place. If you remove the heads there is a good easy and inexpensive way to clean out the tapered seats. Purchase a Nylon Bristle .44 or .45 Cal gun barrel brush from any Kmart, Wal-Mart or Sporting Goods store that handles Gun Equipment (it is under $2.00) and attach it to a cordless drill. Spray some penitrating oil (Areo Kroil) down the tapered seat and run this brush up and down it 4 or 5 times. Then repeat... Clean the brush with brake cleaner, then spray a bit of brake cleaner into the tapper then brush it out again. Repeat till all of the carbon and/or rust has been removed from the tapper. (Do this only if the heads have been removed fom the engine) There is no need to have the heads re-machined and fork out $100's of dollars just for a Tune-Up)
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From: Haveloce
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Mountain Pass
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How many Miles do you have on the Spark Plugs that are in there now? If it is under 30K (even than it is risky, from reading other forums) you might want to invest in either PB Blaster or Aero Kroil from KanoLabs.com (Kroil smells alot better than Blaster) and follow the TSB for removing the plugs. Remember that you need a 9/16 Deepwell socket for removal. Good luck though on not breaking one off if you are over 30K miles. I know of people who have been successful in removing them but they are far and few compared to how many have broken them off. If you have any questions just ask.
Originally Posted by lowcountry
I have a stock motor thanks for the info, called autozone and changed them to the HT1's
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Mountain Pass
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Hate to say it but the averages are against you.... I would take the TSB (06-15-2 superseeds 06-5-9 ) and follow it to the letter or hold out a little bit longer and wait for my step by step for removing cracked/broken plugs. Definatly contact KanoLabs and order some AeroKroil (it is the only way to get it and it is not that expensive) Get either 1 or 2 cans of the industrial size, get a good set of Oxy-Acetylene torches and a Propane torch. Be prepared to remove the Exhaust (before the Catalytic converters) from the exhaust manifold. (soaking everything that is rusted with AeroKroil first) Also, don't expect to have your truck back out on the road for atleast a week or two. If you have any problems or questions please feel free to ask. I will help out as much as I can. GOOD LUCK!!! My plugs only had about 75K miles on them and all 8 broke. The Dealer had replaced them earlier due to a bad set of faulty plugs.
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