Coolant leak?
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Coolant leak?
Hey folks,
64 F350 with 292. Im just starting getting the truck going. I noticed the radiator was low so filled up. When I got it running I have coolant dripping off the bottom of the starter. Anybody got a quick thought on that? Head gasket Im assuming???
Im not familiar with these engines. I have a shop manual on the way and will be proceeding with plugs, wires, timing, etc., but am afraid I may have to do some surgery.
Thanks,
Luke
64 F350 with 292. Im just starting getting the truck going. I noticed the radiator was low so filled up. When I got it running I have coolant dripping off the bottom of the starter. Anybody got a quick thought on that? Head gasket Im assuming???
Im not familiar with these engines. I have a shop manual on the way and will be proceeding with plugs, wires, timing, etc., but am afraid I may have to do some surgery.
Thanks,
Luke
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Thank you. Was talking with my parts guy today and he mentioned that. I'll be in better shape when I have a manual so I know where things are.
I cut my teeth on motorcycles and forget all about freeze plugs. Doh!
I cut my teeth on motorcycles and forget all about freeze plugs. Doh!
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Woops, I got steel ones. Should I replace the rubber one? Im just trying to get her going for now. If I ever pull the engine I'l give it a good going over and replace with brass.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
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From: Augusta, Georgia
Luke,
Steel ones are just fine, since that's what came in the engine. The brass ones are an upgrade. However, the rubber one will sooner or later pop out. Now, before all you lovers of the rubber-type get all excited, they are okay for a temporary fix, but, in my 42 years of experience, I HAVE seen them fail...
Steel ones are just fine, since that's what came in the engine. The brass ones are an upgrade. However, the rubber one will sooner or later pop out. Now, before all you lovers of the rubber-type get all excited, they are okay for a temporary fix, but, in my 42 years of experience, I HAVE seen them fail...
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Originally Posted by captradiator
Luke,
Steel ones are just fine, since that's what came in the engine. The brass ones are an upgrade. However, the rubber one will sooner or later pop out. Now, before all you lovers of the rubber-type get all excited, they are okay for a temporary fix, but, in my 42 years of experience, I HAVE seen them fail...
Steel ones are just fine, since that's what came in the engine. The brass ones are an upgrade. However, the rubber one will sooner or later pop out. Now, before all you lovers of the rubber-type get all excited, they are okay for a temporary fix, but, in my 42 years of experience, I HAVE seen them fail...
Now for the other side.....
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Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by luke-gr
I was emphatically warned about the rubber ones by a buddy, but parts guys encouraged me on the rubber ones. :shrug: HUH? 
I didn't!! I put two of the new plugs in last night. I used a magnet to retrieve a bunch of goop from below the plugs. I see there is also a drain hole on the block, but probably too small to do much good in flushing out. I thought about flushing from the top with the freeze plugs out as Acheda had suggested in another thread, but would have made a mess in the garage.
Now for the other side.....
I didn't!! I put two of the new plugs in last night. I used a magnet to retrieve a bunch of goop from below the plugs. I see there is also a drain hole on the block, but probably too small to do much good in flushing out. I thought about flushing from the top with the freeze plugs out as Acheda had suggested in another thread, but would have made a mess in the garage. Now for the other side.....
If the engine has any rust or scale, do NOT put in any anti-freeze or coolant. Both types act similar to a rust remover. Where will the rust and scale end up? In the radiator.
Caveat: On engines where rust and corrosion has worked around the core plug holes, brass core (freeze) plugs may not hold when the engine reaches operating temperature. This is especially true of saucer type core plugs. The cup type core plugs aren't usually as affected, but....
The standard Ford radiator cap as original was 13 pounds. Some ppl that own these older trucks run a 4 pound cap. Whatever cap you use, get one with a release lever on it. You might also consider adding an aftermarket coolant recovery system, which was not available on Fords then.
Last edited by NumberDummy; May 1, 2007 at 06:52 PM.
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
If the engine has any rust or scale, do NOT put in any anti-freeze or coolant. Both types act similar to a rust remover. Where will the rust and scale end up? In the radiator.
Caveat: On engines where rust and corrosion has worked around the core plug holes, brass core (freeze) plugs may not hold when the engine reaches operating temperature. This is especially true of saucer type core plugs. The cup type core plugs aren't usually as affected, but....
The standard Ford radiator cap as original was 13 pounds. Some ppl that own these older trucks run a 4 pound cap. Whatever cap you use, get one with a release lever on it. You might also consider adding an aftermarket coolant recovery system, which was not available on Fords then.
Caveat: On engines where rust and corrosion has worked around the core plug holes, brass core (freeze) plugs may not hold when the engine reaches operating temperature. This is especially true of saucer type core plugs. The cup type core plugs aren't usually as affected, but....
The standard Ford radiator cap as original was 13 pounds. Some ppl that own these older trucks run a 4 pound cap. Whatever cap you use, get one with a release lever on it. You might also consider adding an aftermarket coolant recovery system, which was not available on Fords then.
What is the solution to no antifreeze? You cant mean permanently can you?
It was my local parts fellow that suggested the rubber. You know how it is...if you ask enough people youre going to get some different answers.
There didnt appear to be any damage to the openings.Why run a lower pressure cap? Or was that supposed to be 14?
Thanks!
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by luke-gr
What is the solution to no antifreeze? You cant mean permanently can you? Yes.
It was my local parts fellow that suggested the rubber. You know how it is...if you ask enough people youre going to get some different answers. There didnt appear to be any damage to the openings. The damage is caused by time, and no rust inhibitors being used.
Why run a lower pressure cap? Or was that supposed to be 14?
Thanks!
It was my local parts fellow that suggested the rubber. You know how it is...if you ask enough people youre going to get some different answers.
There didnt appear to be any damage to the openings. The damage is caused by time, and no rust inhibitors being used. Why run a lower pressure cap? Or was that supposed to be 14?
Thanks!
Add coolant or anti-freeze...and the result will be a plugged radiator if the engine is rusty. There is no solution. Even taking the block apart and having it boiled won't remove all the scale, too much time has passed. Sorry, I hate to be an alarmist, but when one has spent nearly 50 years in the car biz, and collected and restored dozens of these old rolling piles of misery, being an alarmist just comes natural. Bottom line: Been there. Done that.
Last edited by NumberDummy; May 2, 2007 at 03:55 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
I thought ole' blue came with a 7lb cap, but I can't say for certain, prolly a replacement anyway.
The thing about coolant is that it is more for boilover protection most places - as well as freeze protection in cold climates. The combination of a pressurized radiator (isn't an 18 pound cap standard now??) and a mixture of glycol and water raises the boiling point much higher than plain water and just a 4lb cap. Dumb question, but won't this cause boilovers on mountain passes??
But I'll defer to Bill on this~!
Bill - these trucks originally came with alcohol and water as "Rotunda" probably - and a 160F t-stat. Whaddaya think about running 180F t-stat?
The thing about coolant is that it is more for boilover protection most places - as well as freeze protection in cold climates. The combination of a pressurized radiator (isn't an 18 pound cap standard now??) and a mixture of glycol and water raises the boiling point much higher than plain water and just a 4lb cap. Dumb question, but won't this cause boilovers on mountain passes??
But I'll defer to Bill on this~!
Bill - these trucks originally came with alcohol and water as "Rotunda" probably - and a 160F t-stat. Whaddaya think about running 180F t-stat?
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From: Augusta, Georgia
FTE Friends,
I believe that the alcohol-type coolant was well before the Y-Block's time. Even though ALL the rust may not come out, the best procedure is to flush the block, heads, heater core and radiator. Then, run a 50-50 mix of coolant/water. Tap water is generally okay, but do NOT use well water.
Also, keep in mind that every pound of pressure in the cooling system raises the boiling point by about 2.5 degress/
I believe that the alcohol-type coolant was well before the Y-Block's time. Even though ALL the rust may not come out, the best procedure is to flush the block, heads, heater core and radiator. Then, run a 50-50 mix of coolant/water. Tap water is generally okay, but do NOT use well water.
Also, keep in mind that every pound of pressure in the cooling system raises the boiling point by about 2.5 degress/
