'01 wheel bearings
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Sarasota FL
I have replaced mine on my 99. I don't know if they are the same. Mine were not hard, just time consuming. They are not like the old bearings and seals, but a one piece component that costs a small fortune and as far as I know are not greasable or fixable, just replaceable. 
I have a friend that is a mechanic and he saved me a couple hundred on one unit. Last I checked they cost around $400+ for the average joe at the stealership parts counter. As far as I can remember, it was remove the tire, brakes w/caliper, hub, and bearings.
I have a friend that is a mechanic and he saved me a couple hundred on one unit. Last I checked they cost around $400+ for the average joe at the stealership parts counter. As far as I can remember, it was remove the tire, brakes w/caliper, hub, and bearings.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: Arvada, Colorado
I just finished the pasenger side on my 2000 F250 PSD this afternoon. I followed this link from Racerguy and skipped the parts about the ball joints. Everything else is the same and the pictures helped alot. Also, skip the part about removing the tie rod end, don't need to.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=354091
I also made the "special tool" out of parts from Home Depot thanks to all the guys here. If you can find the flange with a diameter of 3.80 inches or less helps. I had to grind mine down from 4.0 inches.
1. 1 1/4" x 8" galvanized pipe
2. 1 1/4" flange
3. 1 1/4" cap
Bought the Hub Assembly from Advanced Auto. $228 with ABS, $188 w/o. Seals bought from the stealership.
This Site Rocks!!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=354091
I also made the "special tool" out of parts from Home Depot thanks to all the guys here. If you can find the flange with a diameter of 3.80 inches or less helps. I had to grind mine down from 4.0 inches.
1. 1 1/4" x 8" galvanized pipe
2. 1 1/4" flange
3. 1 1/4" cap
Bought the Hub Assembly from Advanced Auto. $228 with ABS, $188 w/o. Seals bought from the stealership.
This Site Rocks!!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: Arvada, Colorado
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 484
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From: CT
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
2WD and 4WD are very different procedures.
All the above describe how to do the four-wheelers. The original question was about a two-wheeler, which I don't know anything about, but I seem to recall is the same as any previous-era two-wheel Ford truck.
I know, that doesn't help anyone who hasn't EVER done the job before, but it might help prevent a LOT of confusion for someone.
Pop
All the above describe how to do the four-wheelers. The original question was about a two-wheeler, which I don't know anything about, but I seem to recall is the same as any previous-era two-wheel Ford truck.
I know, that doesn't help anyone who hasn't EVER done the job before, but it might help prevent a LOT of confusion for someone.
Pop
Last edited by SpringerPop; Apr 22, 2007 at 11:11 AM.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: Arvada, Colorado
Holy Carp! Thanks guys, I didn't catch the two wheel drive. Don't have many out this way but still should pay attention.
Thanks for the recovery.
Thanks for the recovery.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2005
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Yes mine is 2WD...don't have much snow in south Jersey so I didn't waste the extra money for 4WD...anyways, i bought new bearings, seals, races and pads....gonna resurface the rotors...just didn't know how involved changing the bearings were.....i have a Chiltons book to refer to....but you guys that do it all the time know the tricks and tips to make the job go smoother....
