I feel you pain. My first oil change took about 2 hours because of that stupid filter. I tried the screwdriver trick, the filter tool. I finally got a oil filter socket that has five points with teeth on them. as you twist it with a wratchet, the teeth are tightened on the filter. eventually the stupid filter crushed to about half of it's size, but it did come off.

for those of you that shop at wally world. Beware the filter they say belongs on the 5.4 their little filter selection computer will spit out the filter # for a 4.6 I've had it do it the last 3 times I checked. luckily I caught it the 1st time and didn't attempt to use the wrong filter. I belive the Motorcraft # is 820s, or a Fram is P3 (you guys correct me if I'm wrong)

if you haven't changed your oil yet, I recommend you do it now. Don't wait until 5k like Ford says to. My oil was pitch black at <3k when I 1st changed it. It has been slowly getting clearer as I change the oil. I'm at ~13k right now with 5 changes. I'm going to change it again in about 1000 miles. Hopefully the oil will come out almost the same color it went in.

as for the reciepts thing, that is pure and simple BS. I'm paranoid about this stuff, so I've got a little folder in the truck with all that stuff, but they cannot deny your warranty on something that flimsy. Soxfan81, sounds like they suspect you've got an expensive repair and are trying to weasel out of it.

 

Well the dealer I got my truck from a couple of weeks ago throws in 2 yrs of oil changes with the deal, so I will not worry about.

 

When I did my first oil change, I had to go buy the exact fitting oil filter wrench (16 flats, I believe) to remove it. My ambidextrous wrench that fits Motorcraft or 16 flat filters just slipped when I tried it.

Why don't they put a real Motorcraft filter on from the factory is what I was wondering at the time. That factory filter is one heavy ***** too that I suppose is designed to take a hit or two during assembly.

I ended up with the filter wrench, a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter, a 1/2" universal, 30" of 1/2" extension that I poked through the tow hook hole, and a breaker bar to finally get that SOB off.

 

My dealer throws in the first oil change for free. I wasn't going to bother as it's 120 miles from my house to the dealer, but after reading this, I guess I'll make the trip!

 

I don't know if it's worth driving 2 hours to get a free oil change. I'd just take it to the local Jiffy Lube or such and let it be their problem. Once they start, they're stuck until it's done.

Besides, chances are that after 3 or so years, the local shops have had a chance to change the 1st oil filter and know how to do it.

 

The FL-820S is for both the 4.6 and the 5.4, it is the oil filter that is on my 4.6 right now...

 

Where you guys shopping at??? My dealer gives me a stack of free change tickets...going this week for my first one.

 

i take it to the dealer most times, although i changed it myself about 2K miles ago...it costs less than 15 bucks for me to change it, and don't have to grease anything...dealer charges 40 bucks and that includes a tire rotation, but I can get that for free at discount...and i go thru window washer like crazy...so there is no advantage to me to change it at the dealer...

 

So your the guy who keeps bringing in cars with the filters cranked on. I havent seen where the filter is on the newer F150's. I know the filter on the 1997-03(i think) sucks to get at.

By the way, once you get it done at jiffy lube, next time around change it yourself so you can compare the size of the filters. At tires plus, the filters are 1/2 the length of the stock ones. It probably really doesnt matter, but my 88 F150 always gets a motorcraft FL-1A and 6 Qts of 5w30 (motorcraft). It just gives me peace of mind anyway.

Also a tip for anyone who gets their oil changed at a jiffy lube type place, Take a white paint marker and write how many quarts of oil its supposed to take on the air filter box like "6 QTS W/Filter". I never knew how much oil the newer F150's took. I would put in 6, check the stick and it would be 1/2 quart low. So I would put in another 1/2 quart to make it full, when it really did take 6. Trust me, it will eliminate alot of confusion and overfull crankcases!

 

I havent had one that you couldnt remove with a standard band wrench and a lot of screaming, cursing and occasionally pulling your fingers out of joint. Of course I do have the advantage of working standing up and at eye level. There are lots of choice words flung around the shop as each 1st oil change comes in the door, as well as a few gorilla seconds put on at Bills Quick Lube and the like. I guess they feel if it took 150 FT pounds to remove it they should retorque the new one as such.

Just be aware that the ones that are REAL hard to take off often leave the oring in place and you can easily double ring one and end up with a real mess.

 

something is up then, because I bought one that was supposed to fit my truck, and it was the 4.6 filter. the seals were in different positions and it had different threading...oh well

heck yeah. when I buy a new one again, I'm making some poor schmuck do it for me. I think it is totally worth paying $30 for someone else to fight that stupid filter on the first oil change. Never again. btw, the filter is placed in the same spot as a 302. it's even mounted sideways like the 302.

dumb design. what is so hard about having a filter mounted up/down?

 

It is probably the filter for the 4.2 that you got. It is smaller.

 

Please don't take this the wrong way, I am just trying to make sure we don't confuse anyone out there with a 4.6...as for the 4.2, idk, don't have one, don't know anyone that has one...

this is from my 4.6L sitting in the driveway...

 

4.2 uses 400s

 

I think thats the same guy that tried to kill himself on those superbowl ads. Maybe you guys are to hard on him. Poor bot !