cleaning IAC
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cleaning IAC
I have been reading past threads and it sounds like the rough idle on my 97 3.0 Ranger is probably the IAC or EGR valve....here is the question what do I clean the IAC with..... help please have to go to work in 3 hrs
Posting Guru
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From: Maine
I've heard throttle body cleaner is a better choice than carb cleaner. Don't know what the difference between the two is, so I can't say why it matters, but they're about the same price at the parts stores...
Post Fiend
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Throttle body cleaner typically is safe for the coating on the inside of the throttle body (hence the name...). Other than that, no real differences. I use TB cleaner on all three engines in my trucks without problems (GMC is carbed and it's never hurt a thing).
Take the IAC off, turn the openings in it down, and spray it full of TB cleaner until the stuff draining out is clear and clean, then sit it out in the sun and let it air dry before replacing it.
Take the IAC off, turn the openings in it down, and spray it full of TB cleaner until the stuff draining out is clear and clean, then sit it out in the sun and let it air dry before replacing it.
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From: Denver
I've cleaned 2 of them (using the procedure described by Zach) and in both cases within a week they were sticking again. So, both times I've ended up replacing the iac. My opinion is that cleaning it is only good for confirming that the iac is the real problem - if it is then go buy a new one.
BTW, rough idle is not typically an iac problem - the engines just don't idle that well anyway. The iac nearly always causes high idle speeds when approaching a stoplight or similar situation if its bad. Rough idle could be caused by a number of factors including plugs, vacuum leak, deposit buildup, etc. etc.
BTW, rough idle is not typically an iac problem - the engines just don't idle that well anyway. The iac nearly always causes high idle speeds when approaching a stoplight or similar situation if its bad. Rough idle could be caused by a number of factors including plugs, vacuum leak, deposit buildup, etc. etc.
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Posting Guru
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Some of the newer IAC's are not cleanable. Might wanna check before squirting with a harsh chemical. jd
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Just like they are all labled "DO NOT CLEAN" and yet perfectly safe to clean, WHEN USING THROTTLE BODY CLEANER. They were labled "DO NOT CLEAN" as to keep people from using carb cleaner, which contains chemicals that will eat through the layer on the throttle body.
100% spot on.
Mine idles pretty dang good I would say. Not perfectly smooth, but it doesn't shake the truck or anything. Though I don't have any real good comparison vehicles.
Originally Posted by rubydist
My opinion is that cleaning it is only good for confirming that the iac is the real problem.
Originally Posted by rubydist
the engines just don't idle that well anyway.
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They are labled "Do Not Clean" because there is a coating on the parts that can be damaged. The inside can be wiped with a soft brush, or paper towel, with a little mild cleaner on it, but It is not recommended to spray ANY cleaner directly onto the parts. There has to be some type of solvent, although it can be mild, else it wouldn't clean anything.
One can look at the pintle and see if there is enough build-up to cause a problem in the valve and clean as suggested. A small build-up is normal, and will not cause the valve to malfunction.
I will heed the posted labels, as they are there for a reason, and certainly will not tell anyone it is ok to do otherwise. jd
One can look at the pintle and see if there is enough build-up to cause a problem in the valve and clean as suggested. A small build-up is normal, and will not cause the valve to malfunction.
I will heed the posted labels, as they are there for a reason, and certainly will not tell anyone it is ok to do otherwise. jd
Posting Guru
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From: Maine
I see your point about not cleaning them, but if the thing doesn't work, there's not a whole lot of use trying to protect it...
My IAC was sticking about 15 months ago, had to hold the pedal down on cold starts or it would die; I cleaned it then, and again in October, and it's been fine...
My IAC was sticking about 15 months ago, had to hold the pedal down on cold starts or it would die; I cleaned it then, and again in October, and it's been fine...
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
I've cleaned mine several times, and others even more, and not had a problem. Every bit of advice I see on the internet, including on FTE, says it's ok when throttle body cleaner is used in place of carb cleaner. I'll add that in my owners manual it states that the throttle body of the engine may be cleaned with a throttle body cleaner that conforms to Ford's specifications. It has a warning below that to not use carburetor cleaner on any part of the intake. Perhaps this is not in later model manuals, but it's in mine. I also seem to remember seeing it in the Silverado manual, but I'll have to pull it and check.
Posting Guru
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I really don't understand why they need so much "cleaning." This is not a maintenance requirement. I have never cleaned the IAC on any of my vehicles, or customers. Maybe cleaning leads to more cleaning????????
This is not a throttle body. The coating is different than the throttle body. Maybe it doesn't matter, but if I have an IAC problem, it gets replaced. It's not worth fooling with, and you have the damn thing off anyway. jd
This is not a throttle body. The coating is different than the throttle body. Maybe it doesn't matter, but if I have an IAC problem, it gets replaced. It's not worth fooling with, and you have the damn thing off anyway. jd
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Indeed. I would do nothing but clean it, and if the problem goes away, replace it. Best way to diagnose a dirty IAC is to clean it, and while cleaning it may temporarily clear the problem up, it will come back unless the IAC is replaced.
