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What Engine Do I Have?

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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 06:16 AM
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What Engine Do I Have?

Hello all,
My engine came in thurday form the bone yard. I found it online. It sounded like a good deal but now I dont know. 97-98, 5.4L, 45,000 mi., all miles are CARFAX veritied, 180 day warranty, All Engines come as complete assembly. They are started, inspected for compression, cylinder leak down tested, checked for oil pressure and cleaned. (It all sounded pretty good) Now that I have the engine, It has been striped. Fuel rails, injectors, plugs, coils, even the oil pan is missing. I dont mine that so much as I can remove all the parts that I need off my orig. engine that is still in the truck. They (bone yard) have bolted an intake off some else on it. Its look taller than the on in the truck and does not even cover all the holes in the head. On the rear, passenger side, you can see about half of a port opening in the head, I'm not sure what the opening in the head is for, its part of the head casting and has a "O" ring groove. The lower side (bottom side of the head) is open to. I do think that the intake should cover that opening though. I found these numbers on the driver side head, RF-F75E-6090-C20A, Also this on the intake F75E-9424-DB.

Can anyone tell me if its really a 97-98 engine.
 

Last edited by Sandbar Norm; Apr 20, 2007 at 07:01 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 08:43 AM
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F75E means NPI Windsor heads so yes it is a '97 or '98, why didn't you go with a PI block?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 08:46 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I glad its the right year.
PI Block? Not sure what that is.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 12:45 PM
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5.4L's from 99+ have PI heads and intake, good for another 30hp.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 01:33 PM
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I was looking for a replacment engine. I did not think that 99+ engines would work. My truck is a 1997. I thought that only 1997 and 1998 would work. Would 1999 to 2003 engine also work? I'm mean its a little late now but would they?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 06:04 PM
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pretty much...
 
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 06:38 PM
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Yep, it would have worked, might have been 1 fuel line issue but nothing major.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 06:26 AM
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Thanks for the info.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 08:10 AM
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If the intake is all metal then it might be off of a 4.6 they are taller then the 5.4. There is a sticker on the left head cover that should say F150, 54L, and manf date. You better confirm you actually have a 5.4l. Another difference is the crank end in the rear should have 8 bolt holes. The half uncovered port in the rear of the intake is normal.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 08:44 AM
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I found on the left side head 5.4L. It was not a sticker. Actual casting numbers. I will have to go and check on the bolt holes in the crank. (no flywheel ethier) The intake looks taller than the one in my truck now. But their is no alt. on the new one and I havent seen the rear of the one in my truck yet. It may be the same, I dont know yet. You say the half uncovered port is normal? That just seems odd. Can you tell which intake from the casting numbers? (F75E-9424-DB) If its the correct intake, I'm starting to feel better. I went to talk to the guy about switching the engines. He is getting a quote together for me. I think its going to be a lot. (What do you think is fair?) Like I said, My engine has been stripped. All acc., plugs, cop,injectors,fuel rails,exhaust,flywheel,oil pan, It looks like bolt cutters for the oil cooler lines. To do it myself I will miss to much time at work. I work about 60 to 65 hours a week. I have swiched a few engine when I was younger but none of the newer engines. (383 in a 69 roadrunner, 350 in a 69 camaro, 440 in a 70 superbee). Miss those cars. And not sure if I have all needed tools. But if the quote is to high, I will take time off and buy what ever tool I dont have. Sorry about the length. What do about the intake?
 
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 10:28 AM
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These engines are used in many applications including E series vans. The port may be used for one of those intakes. I just saw someone trying to sell a F series engine on e-bay but if you look at it very closely you can tell it's a E series setup. There are some differences. I just finished swapping a 4.6 to a 5.4 using just hand tools. If I worked on it constantly I would have gotten the job done in 4-5 days. When I was looking for someone to do my engine I was getting quotes for 5000 including the engine. Too much for me. I decided to do it myself. With all the parts, tools and engine I bought the job cost me around 2300. Good deal I say.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 11:04 AM
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Thanks Chris, I just spoke to the shop that was going to do mine. $1650 in labor, plus parts, gaskets and fluids, he said between $2,250 and $2,500. That mabe fair but it seems like alot. I dont make that much in a week. I'm going to look it over good this weekend and may take a week of vacation and do this myself. Did you need any special tools? I have alot of standard shop tool for normal stuff.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 12:49 PM
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Most of the stuff is pretty standard. 1/4" to 1/2" ratchets, extensions, most of the bolts are 8, 10, 13, 15 mm. Need an engine hoist, floor jack , stands, the only special tool I needed to buy was spring lock releases for the fuel lines going to the fuel rail. That's about it. It's just labor intensive.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 07:25 AM
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Thanks again
 
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