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i noticed at least one manifold stud is rusted, gone, shot, bye-bye on the driver's side....looks like a hell of a job with all that rust, but the clatter is driving me nuts....I'm sure a garage will charge an arm and a leg. MIGHT try it myself.
replace with Ford stainless studs?
why studs instead of bolts? seems to me that studs are a pain in the rear.
and are these "accessories" worth it? seems like a rip to me
STG-8906 Stop leakage from loose header bolts. Made in the U.S.A., Stage 8's Grade 8 locking header bolts use a patented system that consists of a grooved hex-head bolt, a retainer, and a snap clip. The retainer fits over the bolt head and locks the bolt against the header tube, and the snap clip holds the retainer in place. Once Stage 8 header bolts are tightened down, they won't back out--eliminating leakage and blown header gaskets from loose bolts. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=STG-8906
I did not see the Ford racing headers for a 5.4?
Yes the headers bolts are worth every penny!They hold way better and will not be coming loose all the time.
As for the Summit headers,,there ok for the price but they will not last very long.
Gibson makes a nice set for the 5.4.I just took them off to upgrade to long tubes.
They are stainless/ceramic coated and were about $500.
So, did you go with the Summit headers? I'm looking at the same pair, I've got at least two broken studs on my '00 5.4, and only want to do this job once. Thanks,
i haven't done anything with them yet....
have the shocks to put on, closing on a house, planning the wedding, started a new job and full time college....and maintaining one house i'm not living in and helping my mother in NJ and fiance's mother in NY....I'm spent...
enough whining.
Did you serve on subs, Doc? You're starting to sound like our HMC!!
Just ribbing, of course...
Let us know how those headers work out for you. I just bought a pair to put onto my '95 351. I'm hoping to get my money's worth out of them.
-Steve (ET1/SS)
I pulled the trigger on the Summit headers. They showed up today, made by Pace Setter. Overall quality looks good, thick flanges, clean welds, straight. They came painted black, so I used paint remover to take that off and am in the process of putting on rattle can high temp silver. Should last a little longer than the original paint. Bought the SVO locking grade 8 bolts and Fel Pro gaskets while I was at it. I'll tackle the job this weekend and post on any tips.
By the way Rob and Bruce, thanks for serving. You may not know it from the media, but there's plenty of thankful Americans out there that enjoy the freedom folks like you provide.
I'll start a thread when I'm done, I've started the job today; and my swearing has only barely offended the neighbors! That means my project is only going slightly worse than anticipated...
Well, Passenger side's done. Got the old manifold off in about an hour. All studs came out fine. I'd advise any one doing this to buy a stud extractor. Has a knurled cam that pivots against the stud, then you ratchet it right out. Got mine at sears for $25.
As for the new headers, it took about 5 hours to get the one side in. No room to wrench on the 2 rear cylinders. Also hard to line up, I'm going to drill the drivers side bolt holes a little bigger so I've got room to manuever. No leaks, but what a PITA. I'll do the drivers side tomorrow.
i just put a set on my expedition and it was an all weekend job. i ended up having to drop the entire exhaust system and pulling the plastic inner fender well to reach some bolts on the passanger side. Don't know about the gas mileage yet, but it did cause my check engine light to come on and the "milage indicator" reads crazy sometimes
Just got mine on this weekend also. It was a pain, especially on the passenger side. The drivers side was not as tough. I have encountered some other issues that are keeping me from starting my truck just yet. I'll post back when I get her fired up, a couple of days, maybe...
Well, my high temp rattle can paint job has boiled off both sides (no surprise), and I have a leak on the Pass side. Not sure if its the header or the Y pipe connection. If I could go back in time, I'd just replace the broken studs and leave it alone.