MC Leaks
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 53
From: Coatesville, PA
MC Leaks
Hello,
I hope someone will give me some advice on this problem. I am in the process of replacing my brake system. I got it all together a few weeks ago and started to bleed the brakes when I discovered a leak. It was at the MC brass 3 way connector. One of the 3 female ports was leaking. I tried to clean the threads with a tap but was unable to stop the leak. I ordered a new brass 3 way connector, the bolt and both copper washers. Today I installed all of this and now it leaks at either side of the copper washers at the brass block. I tried fine sandpaper to clean the brass block, I even tried an additional copper washer at the MC side but nothing will stop it from leaking when I push the pedal rod. I then tried the original bolt with the new block and have same issue. I've concluded that my new brass block is in someway defective. If you compare the old brass block to the new one. The new one is not quite as thick but its only slightly thinner. I've now ordered the same parts again and have them coming overnight because I wanted to spend the next 3 days on the truck.
Any ideas on what might be causing this or how to correct this would be appreciated.
Thanks
Dennis
I hope someone will give me some advice on this problem. I am in the process of replacing my brake system. I got it all together a few weeks ago and started to bleed the brakes when I discovered a leak. It was at the MC brass 3 way connector. One of the 3 female ports was leaking. I tried to clean the threads with a tap but was unable to stop the leak. I ordered a new brass 3 way connector, the bolt and both copper washers. Today I installed all of this and now it leaks at either side of the copper washers at the brass block. I tried fine sandpaper to clean the brass block, I even tried an additional copper washer at the MC side but nothing will stop it from leaking when I push the pedal rod. I then tried the original bolt with the new block and have same issue. I've concluded that my new brass block is in someway defective. If you compare the old brass block to the new one. The new one is not quite as thick but its only slightly thinner. I've now ordered the same parts again and have them coming overnight because I wanted to spend the next 3 days on the truck.
Any ideas on what might be causing this or how to correct this would be appreciated.
Thanks
Dennis
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,849
Likes: 1
From: Massillon, Ohio
I had the same problem with mine. The copper washer on mine was one size one one side and another on the other. The brake switch is on mine. might check this. I dont know about 56 all that well.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 53
From: Coatesville, PA
Hi Kevin,
Mine is a 52 but it is the same way. Two different sized copper washers. I just cant figure out why its leaking. I tightened it as much as possible and still it gushes brake fluid. I'll be back out there in the morning if the rain stops and UPS comes as planned. I wonder if some kind of silicone seal could be put on this to seal it up?
Thanks for the reply.
Dennis
Mine is a 52 but it is the same way. Two different sized copper washers. I just cant figure out why its leaking. I tightened it as much as possible and still it gushes brake fluid. I'll be back out there in the morning if the rain stops and UPS comes as planned. I wonder if some kind of silicone seal could be put on this to seal it up?
Thanks for the reply.
Dennis
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
You really don't want a stopgap method that might let go at an inopportune time, plus brake fluid is a great paint remover. Does the line have a double flair on it? A single flair or a cracked or offcenter double flair will leak like crazy.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 53
From: Coatesville, PA
Thanks for the reply, its leaking at the bolt and copper washers. I'm using silicone, I've replaced every part of the brake system so it was a good time to change over. I've used silicone on two other vehicles and its always worked out for me. I am hoping the brass block was just a machining problem.
Dennis
52 F1
Dennis
52 F1
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
I think I recall another member having the same complaint. He found out that he had cross-threaded the fittings into the brass block. Once he installed them correctly, the problem was solved.
Just a thought....
Just a thought....
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Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 907
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City, Mo
brake leak
Using a magnifying glass, I have found several cracks in lines, bad flairs, stripped or cross threading fittings. Dot 5 is a good thing. Have a great day, chuck
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Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,000
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Am I understaning this block correctly? Its a brass block with three female ports that are fed from a main port where the bolt is. The bolt is hollow and has copper washers between the bolt head and the block and between the block and where it bolts to the MC.
I would check the length of the bolt, maybe its bottoming out before applying enough pressure to the copper washers. I agree with what Chuck just said as well, give each of the ends of the flared brake lines a long hard look, the flares could easily be cracked and leaking.
I feel for you. I hate it when what is supposed to be a small quick job turn into a major project over several weeks. Step back, turn around a few times and try looking at it from a different anle...it sounds silly but you'd be suprised at how often it works
Good luck
Bobby
I would check the length of the bolt, maybe its bottoming out before applying enough pressure to the copper washers. I agree with what Chuck just said as well, give each of the ends of the flared brake lines a long hard look, the flares could easily be cracked and leaking.
I feel for you. I hate it when what is supposed to be a small quick job turn into a major project over several weeks. Step back, turn around a few times and try looking at it from a different anle...it sounds silly but you'd be suprised at how often it works
Good luck
Bobby
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
If you have any of the 1948 thru 1956 parts catalogs---look at the exploded diagram of the master cylinder. The "2076" ~ Fitting-Brake and Clutch Master Cylinder Outlet, will be shown. There are 4 different part numbers shown in the text.
91T-2076~Brake~1948/56 F2/F250 and up>>>
7RT-2076~Brake~1948/56 F2/F250 and up>>>
8C-2076~Brake~1948/56 F1/F100
91A-2076~Brake Vacuum Booster Hydraulic~1948/52 F7/F8 (Q-QH) only
---------------------------------------------------------------------
91A-2077 .. 1/2" -20 x 1 5/32" is the correct ported bolt used on F1/F100's 1948/56
Unfortunatly,
Ford doesn't list the number of female ports these have, and searching through several other books turned up no descriptions, either.
51 DUELLER: Page 33 in the 1953 Merc Catalog shows two diagrams of the m/c's and the little buggers.
91T-2076~Brake~1948/56 F2/F250 and up>>>
7RT-2076~Brake~1948/56 F2/F250 and up>>>
8C-2076~Brake~1948/56 F1/F100
91A-2076~Brake Vacuum Booster Hydraulic~1948/52 F7/F8 (Q-QH) only
---------------------------------------------------------------------
91A-2077 .. 1/2" -20 x 1 5/32" is the correct ported bolt used on F1/F100's 1948/56
Unfortunatly,
Ford doesn't list the number of female ports these have, and searching through several other books turned up no descriptions, either.51 DUELLER: Page 33 in the 1953 Merc Catalog shows two diagrams of the m/c's and the little buggers.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Apr 20, 2007 at 01:23 AM.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 53
From: Coatesville, PA
I've posted two new pictures in my Gallery of the brass 3 port brake block. The old one is 9/16" thick and the new one is 1/2" thick, this is probably why I can't get things to seal up. I tried adding an extra copper washer to both sides of the bolt and it helped but still drips a little. I then smathered Permatex all over this and am letting it dry overnight. Not too fancy but maybe enough to work. I'll know in the morning. If anyone has a 48 to 52 F1 and has it apart and is able to measure the width of their brass block I would be interested in knowing.
Thanks so much for the replies to my questions, you guys are helpful I appreciate it.
Dennis
52 F1
Thanks so much for the replies to my questions, you guys are helpful I appreciate it.
Dennis
52 F1
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
Besides 91A-2077 (1/2"-20 x 1 5/32") there are other bolts.
Some PO may have substituted something else.
none of the following are correct for an F1. These were used 1948/1972 on BIG trucks.
TVAA-2077 .. 1/2"-20 x 1 9/32
7EQ-2077 .. 1/2" -20 x 1/2"
Some PO may have substituted something else.
none of the following are correct for an F1. These were used 1948/1972 on BIG trucks.
TVAA-2077 .. 1/2"-20 x 1 9/32
7EQ-2077 .. 1/2" -20 x 1/2"