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hello, this is my 1st post and i'm looking for some advice? I have a 1996 crew that I'm installing a 6.0 intercooler, and while I have her apart I'm going to do the oil line crossover mod, shim the high oil PSI, and the BB trick. the problem I am having is I don't know if I want to make a brake out of my warm up valve or gut it, can you tell me the pros and cons? I do haul a 29ft HD toyhauler around the southwest, the truck has a superchip 70hp?, propane inj., down pipe, cat test pipe, home grown airfilter(ty type) my plan after these mods is a 4" exhaust with no muffler and stage I or II inj. when I start having problems with my stockers, will I need the brake with the 4" because of less backpressure (will it run away on down hills?) oh ya it's a auto OD, or are we going for POWER and gutting it?????
Thanks,
Brett
any other mods that you might think will help please let me know
Well Brett, let me be the first to welcome you to the forum! Its sounds like your on the right track to making some power. I'll address each of your questions seperatly
There isnt any real problem if you were to remove your EBPV. I personally left mine on for faster warm ups and for use as an exhaust brake. There are alot that remove the EBPV and swear its the only way to go. Its up to you what you wanna do. No real issues wether you do remove or wether you dont.
Your turbo creates all the backpressure your motor needs so there wont be any problem if you modify or remove anything after turbo.
Personally if it was my truck I would ditch that superchip and go with a Dp-Tuner. First things first is you should probably get yourself a full set of gauges. Especially if your gonna run a chip and propane haulin that trailer. But your on the right track. Good luck and let us know how the 6.0IC install goes.
Steve has given you good advice. The ebpv is totally up to you. Mine is gone with the actuator off the turbo pedestal is gone and that is great because there is no oil leak and pulling the turbo is super easy. but on the other hand if I did much heavy towing which at this point I don't I would hook it as a brake and then also a switch to lock the torque converter as that will be needed too if you use it as a brake.
Also as Steve said if you don't have a set of gauges you should get them. at the very least a pyro
Thanks 162 and TJ, sorry I thought any mods to a non I/C'd 7.3 needs gauges! I have a trans. and EGT already. Any wiring diagrams for the T/C lockout? and the EBPV brake? I think I'll leave it in and make a brake out of it(N.E. AZ chilly at times)
I have studied both of the links above and I plan on doing this this weekend. One question, it seems that this process could be alot simpler if you only wanted to turn it on and off manually with a switch. Forgive me for the stupid question, but couldn't you just run a fused switch with a hot wire to close it and to open it you would just turn it off? I have a 5-speed so I don't have to worry about a TC. It seems that Baz has the plan I would like to use if it is not as simple as was suggesting. Am I just missing something? Please educate me guys.
the reason for the more complicated install is that I think its designed to run on 5 volts or is it becuase its pulse width modulated (meaning it uses a percentage of on/off cycles). I can't remember which is the case but its one of those.
Yes this helps a bit. I just wanted an on/off switch but I can do it this way as well. As you can see I will not have to worry about the TC. This seems very similiar to the baz website. You guys are great and thanx.
I am wanting to do some very expensive mods in the future and it is killin' me not to ask about them but if I find out the answer I will order them and be in the dog house. When I do I hope you can help me. I would like to do some Injectors/IDM/possible turbo(probably not) and I still want to tow 12-17,000 lbs. 5th wheel. Oh yeah I also want programmable chip etc.
You know I am kinda a simple man and I know this fix probably wouldn't work but it sure would be nice if you could hook an old choke cable to the lever that actuates the EPBV and push or pull it to open or close, but I guess life aint that simple anymore, is it?
You know I am kinda a simple man and I know this fix probably wouldn't work but it sure would be nice if you could hook an old choke cable to the lever that actuates the EPBV and push or pull it to open or close, but I guess life aint that simple anymore, is it?
I would believe that with just a choke cable the pressure would force that valve back open. Choke cable would not hold it. Nice and easy, you have the adjustability behind it for how strong you want the brake action, unfortanitly I personaly dont see it working.
By the way good luck on the IC Tim and I would love to see pics 'cause it is something I have considered.
thanks, I got the cooler mounted today. Now tomorrow reinstall the front end with new headlight, corner light and turn signal housings and build the pipes. I am taking pics of the process. Not planning a write at this point because there are plenty of those floating around but the pics will be posted!
hey, TJ wana make a set 4 me I mounted mine last week but have been driving it lately maybe kake my pipes up next week? picked up a SD chrome bumper and a V-10 trans cooler today, a little damage on the bumper but I think I can press it out at work? any problem mounting the trans cooler in front of the lower part of the I/C???