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Flathead Oil System

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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 11:10 AM
  #1  
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Flathead Oil System

I have a 1952 255 flathead that has been totally rebuilt. I have put finned aluminum heads on and now my oil filter doesn't fit very well. In everyones expert opinion should I leave the oil filter off, as they are not very efficient anyway, or should I modify the mounting bracket to fit. I personnaly like the look of the engine without it but if it is neccessary then I will put it on. Also if I leave it off do I just plug the holes in the block or do I need to run a line from the back port to the side port so oil can flow as if the filter canister was there.

Thanks
wgc
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 12:46 PM
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Just a thought....

Have you considered a remote oil filter? I think they make a kit to adapt a modern remote spin on style oil filter to the old flathead blocks. That woudl give you the best of both worlds, retian the clean look of the flatty and still have some oil filtration.

Bobby
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 01:43 PM
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You can adapt a remote filter like bobby says, but it will still only filter about 15% of the oil flow. A lot of people just run without the filter, and change oil every 1000 miles. My 2 cents is any filter is better than none. Personally I'd at least run the stock filter somehow, but even better would be to modify the block to do the 95% full flow, which is what I did to mine. But if your engine is reassembled now it's pretty much too late, as you'd want to be able to flush out all your drill debris when you drill and tap the holes to do such a mod. I'd say try to adapt your filter to fit--but also it could be mounted to the firewall as well, some older cars did that with pretty much the same filter housing, just different mounting bracket.

If you choose not to run a filter, you don't have to run a line like you said down to the pan, you can just put plugs in those two holes.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 04:32 PM
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I've run mine with and without a filter. Engine likes it either way. When I'm too busy to change oil frequently, I'm glad I have the filter on - course it's a daily driver. If you're only running infrequently, I'd go without the filter.

Do not run an open line between the two fittings - your oil pressure will suffer. The filter has a restrictor built in the top fitting to keep pressure up. Plug both holes with 1/8" pipe plugs.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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I have a filter modified to fit the aluminum heads but I think I will run it without first. There are 3 hole in the back of the block, one was plugged, one had the oil sending unit in it and the other went to the filter, I am assuming these holes are all tied together to a common point.

thanks
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 11:20 PM
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Another thing to consider. . .

That big oil filter canister adds more volume to the system and also help to disapate heat. My 337 flattie runs hot so every little bit helps.

John
NNY
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cts1954
I have a filter modified to fit the aluminum heads but I think I will run it without first. There are 3 hole in the back of the block, one was plugged, one had the oil sending unit in it and the other went to the filter, I am assuming these holes are all tied together to a common point.

thanks
You lucky dog! You have a Canadian block! You can put a "nearly" full-flow remote on it if you buy a piece as shown on the sketch below (source's name is on the sketch), if you have the plug on the back face of the block. It's "nearly" full-flow because it goes thru the rear main bearing before getting to the point where the plug goes into the gallery.

 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 06:41 AM
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Thanks for the picture, looks interesting and yes it is a Canadian block. Do you have this as an attachment you can e-mail me. wgc@pipcom.com

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 06:54 AM
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I have the drawing, thanks

wgc
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 08:57 AM
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By all means you should do this, your flatty will love you for it. In a regular American block like I have, you have to drill and tap the hole for the top left fitting, which you can see where I was saying you'd have to flush all the drill shavings out. I could have used this special fitting for the horizontal hole had I known about it, instead I tapped the inner channel where the O ring is in the picture and put a pipe plug in, and drilled the outside hole bigger for a bigger line fitting as well (I left the oil pressure sender where the "line out" is in the picture). I ran the hoses over the tranny down to the passenger side of the trans crossmember, and put the remote filter there. A little over a year of driving and no leaks, and now all 3 of my vehicles use the same FL-1A filter (better than half the cost of the original flatty filter).

Anyway, you've got a good candidate for the remote filter after all, and I'd definitely set it up that way if it were me.
 

Last edited by Scott123; Apr 19, 2007 at 08:59 AM. Reason: Just noticed something
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 09:14 AM
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Thanks, that is the way I will go. Looks like something I can get made locally.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by cts1954
Thanks, that is the way I will go. Looks like something I can get made locally.
I'd buy it from the guy listed; I doubt you'll beat his price ($20) and he figured this out on his own nickel. Why gamble that your machinist can figure out exactly what diameter the plug needs to be, how deep the O-ring groove is, etc. Up to you, tho!
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 10:33 AM
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Already figured that out, talked to him just now and one is in the mail. His only daily drivers are a 49 pickup and a 50 car. Flathead forever.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 04:46 PM
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I can't make out the info from the pic. Could you print Bryan's info and/or phone # or pm or email it to me. I could use a couple of those.
Thanks,
Tim
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mtflat
I can't make out the info from the pic. Could you print Bryan's info and/or phone # or pm or email it to me. I could use a couple of those.
Thanks,
Tim
Tim, It's in my "Misc" gallery album, I think it's a little bigger/better picture there. If not, let me know and I'll email it
 
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