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Hi, my cross member that holes up the back of my cab is in really bad shape. My question is can I change it my just jacking up the back of the cab or does the whole cab have to be lifted?
Going to change the next cross member down too that holes the gas tank..it was broken. I removed the old one tonight, off to the junk yard tomorrow!
well it would be easier.. to pull the whole cab .. off.. but if yor crossmember is rusted through.. im sure the rest of the truck is pretty ruff as well disconnect the back body mount bolts.. and the front ones of the cab.... and take off the front fenders.. then lift the back of the cab with a jack.. reall slow and easy... about 4 to 6 inches and that should do the trick
you should be able to just remove the body mounts at the rear of the cab and loosten the body mounts at the front and jack it up enough. it'll be tight, but entirely doable. IMO, removing a cab is a PAIN!!! too much to disconnect and reconnect again if you can avoid it.
you should be able to just remove the body mounts at the rear of the cab and loosten the body mounts at the front and jack it up enough. it'll be tight, but entirely doable. IMO, removing a cab is a PAIN!!! too much to disconnect and reconnect again if you can avoid it.
I agree, you don't want to pull the cab if you really don't have to, and yes you can jack it up high enough to replace the bushings one side at a time because I have done that. Never replaced the cross member though.
I have read in many posts that is common for that cross member to either crack or rot to the point of breaking away from the side rails. So you are not alone with a bad cross member.
I repaired the crossmember and replaced the body mounts on mine with the cab still installed. Didn't even loosen the front body mounts.
The clip was already off of mine, so i can't comment on if this is a must or not.
Something to watch out for is that it is nearly impossible to split the body mount shells while under the truck. I was "fortunate" enough that my crossmember had rusted through badly enough that i could pull the mount without splitting the shell.
If you're pulling teh whole thing anyway it won't be that big of a deal, but if you wind up having to leave the old one in there be ready for a fight.
It's not necessary to loosen the front mounts. Just jack up the back of the cab a few inches. I just did this last year on mine. I have some pictures in my gallery. The frame is usually in good shape from the back of the cab forward, because of all the oil and grease getting thrown of the engine and tranny seem to protect it.
I was at the junk yard today, I was able to pick up a section of frame off a 96. I got both cross members, one for the tank and one for the back of the cab! seems to be in good shape!
any suggestions on removing the cab cross member? i'm thinking of using a torch and cutting out the rivets...What do you think?
I usually drill or cut the rivet heads off and knock em loose with a big steel drift and a B.F.H. I too have to replace the cab mount crossmember on my 84, I was able to repair the one behind it.
I found the easiest way was to center punch the head of the rivet, and then drill it out. My drill bit was just under the rivet shank size, so after I drilled it even with the frame, I too would just take a chisel and knock the head off. I did three crossmembers and two spring hangers on mine. Double that because you have to drill out all the rivets on the junkyard frame.
I found the easiest way was to center punch the head of the rivet, and then drill it out. My drill bit was just under the rivet shank size, so after I drilled it even with the frame, I too would just take a chisel and knock the head off. I did three crossmembers and two spring hangers on mine. Double that because you have to drill out all the rivets on the junkyard frame.
Durn tootin! That's exactly how I do it... works like a charm!