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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 07:13 PM
  #1  
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Smile Two more questions

Tuner if I go with the SCT tuner, can I get your feed back on use of it. I want PRO's and CON's, it is not cheap.
Fuel MPG go down, I read some where that it will drop it 2 to 3 MPG?

The SCT will it correct my minor speedo difference?
With a road test this weekend it seems to be roughly 3 - 4 MPH slower I did not think that was that bad.
Does anything else get affected RPM gauge etc?
I am still in my BSEG mode. As soon as the rain stops and the wind gets below 10 to 15 knots I am going to try to add pictures!
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 02:08 PM
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Guys? Anyone?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 07:11 PM
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I'm not totally familar with the SCT tuner, but I had a hypertech and it did very little for performance.

I recently had a custom dyno tune done and the tuner was loaded into a diablo tuner. I have not driven enough to check MPGs but there is a bit more power, something like 9 more rwhp and 24 more rw ft lbs.

The shop changed my air to fuel ratio from around 15.2 to 13.2 and advanced the spark timing a bit. They state that the richer air to fuel will prevent the exhaust studs from breaking (the factory air to fuel causes extreme temps at the manifolds). I was told that the hypertech makes the manifolds even hotter than factory...
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 07:44 PM
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SCT only lists 04'-06' for the SF/XCal 6.8l tuners. The Livewire tunes up to 07'. However what you can tune depends on what year you have a 2V like mine or a 3V.

Don't know what year your truck is.

I have the SCT SF and I adjusted everything except the spark and timing. The tuner asks for the revs per mile of the tire you are using and adjusts the speedo and shift points. I am going to GPS my truck to see if the speedo is correct. Eliminating the speed limiter can get you in trouble if your not careful, because you want to make sure it works.

The tuner will not affect your tach.

As far as gas mileage goes, I don't think the tuner affected it much.

As soon a my headers and Y-pipe are on I'm going to get my truck on the dyno for tuning.

mizzitch, what did it cost you to get you truck tuned on the dyno?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 09:04 PM
  #5  
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I have heard good things about the xcal 2.

I had a superchips chip in my F-150 and couple with a cat back exhaust my 4.6 woke up pretty good. It was fun to drive and got about 16-17 mpg on a mixed tank (city and highway driving)
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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Thanks for the replies, I am coming to the conclusion that for the cost of the Tuner I will not be getting a whole lot of return.
Just to reset the speedo and alittle more power hmmn, I get in enough trouble now! IF the dunerunner starts struggling in the sand and mud with the new sneakers maybe I will just save the money for 4:30 gears since that seems to be the best return for your money. Then again the Bilstein shocks 5100 seem to be the best return.
Well, when the weather and my schedule coincide I will give the new set up a full hard work out and see if any changes are needed.
So far on road test and alot of standing water the tires are 100% better than the last ones.
Sorry for the long post as always trying to get the most information and the most return for my money; to many wants and not enough $$ no matter how much $$ you make.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mizzitch
They state that the richer air to fuel will prevent the exhaust studs from breaking (the factory air to fuel causes extreme temps at the manifolds). I was told that the hypertech makes the manifolds even hotter than factory...
It's funny you mention this. I am in the middle of doing the studs and going to headers on my 2001.

While looking at the stock manifolds, I can see what happened, and that it's not really the studs' fault. The holes in the manifolds are setup in such a way that the top (or was it the bottom? I'll write it up later) center hole is smaller in diameter than the rest of the holes. Which means, they use that one hole to center the manifold. Too bad the nuts lock up to the manifold and when the manifold finally expands enough, pops a stud.

This is the first time I've heard of someone tuning for lower manifold temps.

Must suck for gas mileage.

On edit: Maybe that's why I get such good gas mileage? And popped studs?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 10:31 PM
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I got the SCT and don't expect much from it if your looking for increased HP or TQ. I got mine strictly for shifting harder while towing and it works great for that purpose. When I forget to reload the stock settings after towing, my milage actually goes down to about 8-9 mpg (city). The shifting settings work great for my use of the SCT. I had a Hypertech,but it didn't let me do as much adjusting as the SCT, so it went back. If you've got the $$$$ , if not don't waist your money.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by wfof250v10
I got the SCT and don't expect much from it if your looking for increased HP or TQ. I got mine strictly for shifting harder while towing and it works great for that purpose. When I forget to reload the stock settings after towing, my milage actually goes down to about 8-9 mpg (city). The shifting settings work great for my use of the SCT. I had a Hypertech,but it didn't let me do as much adjusting as the SCT, so it went back. If you've got the $$$$ , if not don't waist your money.
Your not going to get a lot of HP and Torque running 87 Octane. (As with any tuner) The power jumps quite a bit however when running premium with the tune for premium. For me running premium was not an option beacuse it costs enough to fill the truck on 87.

Adjusting the shift points, shift firmess, mixture and speed limiter was why I bought the tuner. A bonus with the SCT is the datalogging feature. It is nice to be able to read/clear DTCs as well.

I can see how the air to fuel ratio would affect EGTs thus having an effect on manifolds and other components. I would rather be a little on the rich side than too lean.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 08:23 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by krewat
It's funny you mention this. I am in the middle of doing the studs and going to headers on my 2001.

While looking at the stock manifolds, I can see what happened, and that it's not really the studs' fault. The holes in the manifolds are setup in such a way that the top (or was it the bottom? I'll write it up later) center hole is smaller in diameter than the rest of the holes. Which means, they use that one hole to center the manifold. Too bad the nuts lock up to the manifold and when the manifold finally expands enough, pops a stud.

This is the first time I've heard of someone tuning for lower manifold temps.

Must suck for gas mileage.

On edit: Maybe that's why I get such good gas mileage? And popped studs?
I'm not sure about the MPGs yet, as all I have done is tow on long trips. Once I get a good empty trip in I will be able to compare MPGs.


I never believed that the studs rusted through, since mine broke before 30,000. While still under warranty the dealer said it was just exhaust noise coming from a moisture drain hole in the muffler. Once it was off warranty they told me the studs were broken.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 08:47 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by dkf
SCT only lists 04'-06' for the SF/XCal 6.8l tuners. The Livewire tunes up to 07'. However what you can tune depends on what year you have a 2V like mine or a 3V.

Don't know what year your truck is.

I have the SCT SF and I adjusted everything except the spark and timing. The tuner asks for the revs per mile of the tire you are using and adjusts the speedo and shift points. I am going to GPS my truck to see if the speedo is correct. Eliminating the speed limiter can get you in trouble if your not careful, because you want to make sure it works.

The tuner will not affect your tach.

As far as gas mileage goes, I don't think the tuner affected it much.

As soon a my headers and Y-pipe are on I'm going to get my truck on the dyno for tuning.

mizzitch, what did it cost you to get you truck tuned on the dyno?
$500 for a bunch of runs to find the optimal air to fuel which they roughly knew was in the 13's and a chip. I am paying $150 extra to upload the chip info onto a diablo preditor, so I can monitor trans temp etc through the OBDII port.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 06:09 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by krewat
It's funny you mention this. I am in the middle of doing the studs and going to headers on my 2001.

While looking at the stock manifolds, I can see what happened, and that it's not really the studs' fault. The holes in the manifolds are setup in such a way that the top (or was it the bottom? I'll write it up later) center hole is smaller in diameter than the rest of the holes. Which means, they use that one hole to center the manifold. Too bad the nuts lock up to the manifold and when the manifold finally expands enough, pops a stud.

This is the first time I've heard of someone tuning for lower manifold temps.

Must suck for gas mileage.

On edit: Maybe that's why I get such good gas mileage? And popped studs?

Krewat -

I have been putting a lot of miles on my v10 with the revised tuning and it is getting the same MPG's as before the air to fuel was changed, about 12.3 mpg at 73-76mph highway driving and 11.2 mpg around town. I think they may have been tuning the open loop (wide open throttle) air to fuel ratio more than the closed loop (fuel efficient mode) air to fuel ratio. <- (I think I got the open/closed loop terms correct, but they could be wrong) I guess I'll see in another 80k if I have stud issues again!


Other stud issues on 99-04's
In addition to the holes in the manifolds not having room for the expansion of the manifolds with high heat - I think that the nut on the stud could get rusted to the manifold and cause the stud to break when the manifolds expand and contract with heat. I like the idea of the copper washer between the manifold and the nut.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 09:19 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by mizzitch
I think that the nut on the stud could get rusted to the manifold and cause the stud to break when the manifolds expand and contract with heat. I like the idea of the copper washer between the manifold and the nut.
True, but when I removed all the remaining intact studs, the underside of the nut was shiny-new...

Weird...
 
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