This subject came up Saturday night in the chat room and I promised to make an album of what I did on my doors. As many know, hanging the doors on our Effies (53's+) is a bear of a job, especially if working alone. The adjustments that make fitting the door possible also make the job difficult.

This problem becomes even bigger after you work hard to get the gaps just right. Now, you have to find EXACTLY where it was in the door opening. I have a plan.

We've talked often about using index holes and clecoes to repeat the location of sheet metal, especially the front clip, and this is a similar method. It worked really well. The key was finding how to freeze the thread plate and hang the weight while installing bolts. Feedback and improvements are appreciated.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=27817

The earlier trucks (F1, etc) have different hinges, so this may not apply.

Enjoy.

 

Randy, I like it! I have not done sheet metal alignment holes yet but plan to. As you indicated the F-1 dorr setup is different in that once you adjust it, you just remove/replace the pins and position is maintained

 

Very clever! I hope I never have to do it, tho!

 

Randy, I like the modification, great work. Would this work? Tapping those cleco holes, you could use a threaded long screw and a star washer, it would permanently align the hinge and cover the holes. Also, less chance of holes rusting. You could still use clecos in the future. Just a thought. Have a great day, chuck

 

Mine will not ever have the alignment and gaps perfect like yours (just a driver), but I think I need to use your procedure when I take mine off for painting. The door seals work well right now and they need to go back that way.

 

Randy, when you retire to Arkansas I sure hope it's close to the Oklahoma border. Neat stuff, thanks. Joe

 

Randy, I need to adjust the my hinges inboard and outboard. The fore/aft adjustment is fine but I cannot seem to get my hinges to go in/out. I ended up making some shims the place between the hinge arm and the door but that is still not the best arrangement, not to mention difficult to do. Am I missing something or is there just no in/out ajustment on a '53 hinge? Thanx...

 

Thank you Randy Jack, It took me forever to get the darn things to lineup. The way you have come up with getting them back in the same location is awsome. Thank's again. To Cowman, yes I had to shim out my left door with a plate about a 3/16. The door pillar adjustment just would not bring it out enough.

 

Randy,

I really enjoy your posts and look forward to your gallery updates. Your attention to detail and and the clear and concise descriptions of the pics is fantastic.

Excellent job on your truck. I can hardly wait to see it back together and in color.
Bobby

 

Chuck -

The in/out adjustment (at the forward door jamb) is made by moving the hinge's attachment at the door jamb. Moving the door up/down (some) is also done there, with some of the up/down and all of the fore/aft done at the hinge/door attachments. The in/out adjustment at the rear of the door is done with the striker plate positioning.

Here's how I adjusted mine for in/out (working alone): With the door closed, estimate or measure how much in/out adjustment you need at the top and bottom of the door. Open the door to max opening (90* to cab). Mark (or scribe) around the edge of the hinge flanges on the door jamb to provide a witness line for door's old position. (Waterbase marker works good for finish paint). Also measure and mark the approximate amount and direction you need to move the door next to those lines to show when you are adjusted enough. I also removed the striker plate so it wouldn't interfere with the repositioning, but you may get by without that depending on how much you are moving the door.

Use a floor jack projected over/under the running board, to support the door weight. Position the pad of the jack foreward of door center (at about 25% of the door length) on the bottom edge. Use a shop rag on the jack pad to protect finish paint. Loosen all of the hinge attach bolts at the door jamb to just snug. Leave the attach bolts between door and hinge tight. With the door open, pull down on the door back side pivoting over the jack pad to move the upper hinge out slightly. Tighten the upper-most door jamb attach bolt. Lift on the door rear to move the bottom out. Tighten one lower attach bolt. Close the door and see where you are. Repeat.

A similar method with the door closed and the jack supporting the weight is how I adjusted mine for the fore/aft location. But, in that case, the attach bolts are easy to loosen/tighten thru the open window.

This whole process takes patience and time, which is why once I had my doors just right, I was very interested in developing an indexing method.

Good luck!

 

I too had to use shims between the door and hinge because there was not enough adjustment in the pillar side mounts to bring them out flush.

 

Randy Jack, Awesome, Awesome, Awesome! I love it. Thanks! I will definately use these tips when I put my doors on.

 

Randy, GREAT explanation. Thanx so much.
I tried to do that but could not seem to get my hinge to move relative to the body. The door side of the hinge gives me lots of fore/aft adjustment, but the body side of the hinge does not seem to move more than a 1/32" at most. Did you slot the hinges to get some movement?
And by the way, I apologize for the sloppy typing on my earlier post. Just sloppy on my part.

 

I did not have to slot the door jamb to get mine to move enough.

Others here have talked about shims in the door pocket, which would also work. The shim would go between the back (outboard side) of the hinge leaf and the door pocket face, to push the door outboard more.

I don't see why you couldn't slot the jamb though. The only limiter will be how much the thread plate will slop around. If it bottoms out, you're stuck with what it gives you.

You could also slot the body holes in the hinge, but be careful how much material you cut out. I might also use flat washer under the bolts to get more bearing if they have to be sotted.

How much do you need the door to move out?

 

RJ- a silly little question. I am unhappy with fitment of both my doors. The gap is fine fore and aft and top and bottom, also front edges are flush; but the aft of both doors jut out into space 3/8" on the drivers side,and some less on the pass. side, as tho my weathersrip were pushing it out at the rear of the door. I don't feel that's the case, but am unsure. Did you remove the weatherstripping b4 doing this work? Should I remove mine to check? The p/o added some additional stipping to stop air whistle I believe, cuz I removed some of it, and now have air whistle at speed.