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RJ- a silly little question. I am unhappy with fitment of both my doors. The gap is fine fore and aft and top and bottom, also front edges are flush; but the aft of both doors jut out into space 3/8" on the drivers side,and some less on the pass. side, as tho my weathersrip were pushing it out at the rear of the door. I don't feel that's the case, but am unsure. Did you remove the weatherstripping b4 doing this work? Should I remove mine to check? The p/o added some additional stipping to stop air whistle I believe, cuz I removed some of it, and now have air whistle at speed.
Now you have opened a Pandora's box. If you use the search function, you'll find many threads about "weatherstrip" fitment. A lot of folks had things to share about it. Some have had exactly your problem and yes, it was the weatherstripping that pushed the door out. Some folks used the stock seal and found it was very stiff and hard to close, but settled in after time. Others used the smaller cross-section (low profile) seal with mixed results.
My doors have no weatherstrip on them right now as I am prepping for paint. They did have stock weatherstripping on them and also whistled like crazy. I tried an aftermarket seal on my doors before this teardown and was very pleased with it. It filled large gaps and eliminated my whistle, yet sealed well where the gap was small, and was very compliant, making the door easy to close. It is a hollow bulb style that I got from Pep Boys. (No, this is not a commercial). This stuff is peel and stick - no adhesive. Here's a pic of the stuff I bought: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=90700&width=0
Yes, I agree that you should fit the doors without weatherstrip, especially since yours have seal problems now. Then apply the weatherstrip and repeat the fit with it on. BTW, the adhesive is a bear to get off.
I did a search on weatherstrip and found three threads that had some good info. I also found out that many of us are like broken records on the subject!
Thanks Randy. I'm heavily into bed work and related items, (chassis cleaning, painting, minor exhaust work, had my rear drums sandblasted and painted, found the shock mount crossmember had failed at drivers side rivet, and other warts exposed with the bed wood out.) But Pep Boys will be seeing me soon. I have what appears to be OEM type stripping in my truck, and both sides suck. 3$$$$$ a foot? What's that come to- 40$ish a door?
Randy, I'm about 1/16 to 3/32 inch inboard at the top of the door. The rest aligns very well. I put a 1/16 in spacer tween the hinge and the door but took that out for some reason. Don't recall why.
After I get done with the new tranny swap I think I will try staring at the doors for a while and see if a revelation pops in my head.
Thanx Randy
Called my local pep boy today. She said they have what I need, 29.95$ a 10 ft. roll. cool. It'll have to wait till next weekend tho. I spent 110$ today on a new stainless braided fuel line with cool anodized red and blue fittings and an Edelbrock chrome gas inlet pipe w/ threaded on filter. Gonna look trick!
This subject came up Saturday night in the chat room and I promised to make an album of what I did on my doors. As many know, hanging the doors on our Effies (53's+) is a bear of a job, especially if working alone. The adjustments that make fitting the door possible also make the job difficult.
This problem becomes even bigger after you work hard to get the gaps just right. Now, you have to find EXACTLY where it was in the door opening. I have a plan.
We've talked often about using index holes and clecoes to repeat the location of sheet metal, especially the front clip, and this is a similar method. It worked really well. The key was finding how to freeze the thread plate and hang the weight while installing bolts. Feedback and improvements are appreciated.
The earlier trucks (F1, etc) have different hinges, so this may not apply.
Enjoy.
Hello, I know this is a real shot in the dark. But is there any chance someone has pictures of how Randy did this indexing on the doors? Or anybody else that has a solution to try re-align the doors after removal and paint?
Indexing happens after you have the door in perfect alignment. The technique that I use is to drill a 1/8 inch hole through each of the hinge faces all the way through the sheet metal and threaded plate. When hanging the door again make sure that each hinge is in the same location and then insert a 1/8 drill bit back into the alignment holes you drilled earlier. This can be a challenge so I use and ice pick first to get the holes in rough alignment and then go to the drill bit.
If you are going to hang doors more than a couple of times you may want to consider a door dolly as pictured here...
If you use the search function, you'll find many threads about "weatherstrip" fitment. A lot of folks had things to share about it. Some have had exactly your problem and yes, it was the weatherstripping that pushed the door out. Some folks used the stock seal and found it was very stiff and hard to close, but settled in after time. Others used the smaller cross-section (low profile) seal with mixed results.
