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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Air pump delete

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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 02:23 PM
  #1  
kodyowenby10's Avatar
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Air pump delete

My air pump locked down on my 1988 F150 with a 302 can I just buy a shorter belt and leave everything hook up? Will it be alright like this or do I need to block it off at the back of the heads?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 05:29 PM
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I've read of problems with the computer but allot of posts have removed them. Mine locked up broke belt and pulled some wires . I got a shorter belt to get the 2 hrs home (with check engine light on.) . And spent weekend fixing everything . I don't have an emissions test but can't legally pass state inspection with out it. Also if garage got a bug up its butt at you it is a federal offense to remove emissions equipment regardless of testing or not. I don't think fed would do anything but I dont want to be the lucky one and they don't drain much horse power from motor. Good luck
 
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 10:01 PM
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Well I dont have to worry about emissions or any body else working on it. I was thanking of making a gasket that would plug the holes on the back of the heads and just mounting everything back up and just get a shorter belt.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 10:30 PM
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On the 88 the EFI system couldn't care less if the air pump is working or not, or there, or not.

As long as you have a cat installed that doesn't have air tubes, the air pump is irrelevent.

Now removing the EGR, that's a different story. The computer can check that for proper operation.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 01:09 PM
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I recently had this problem with my 94 F-150. basically I did the same thing by removing the air pump and putting a shorter belt on. However I don t know if the engines are set up the same, but you ll have to grind down the bolt on the altenator bracket for the belt to move unobstructed. this posses the future hassle of removing the altenator. trust me I had to do it a month or so later. Its a little back woods, but arent we all a little
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 10:04 PM
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So would taking the pump off and the hoses running to the exhaust and the back of the heads be plugged or took off be alright or do I need the hoses running to the exhaust to the heads just not to the air pump?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 12:18 AM
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Sad fact is it's probably cheaper in the long run to just replace the pump. It uses less than one horsepower to run and if you ever want to sell it, it's a federal felony if it's not there.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 10:37 PM
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well all the emissions junk is the reason for the loss of the last motor in it so its for a good cause its getting took off along with some other smog junk. Can I just weld the tube that goes to the exhaust up and cap the other hoses?
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 06:32 AM
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the catalytic converters that have air tubes are significantly less efficient (at idle) without the air pump. If you have emissions testing you might fail.

The newer, generic cats for about $100-125 don't require the air tubes, and will be much more efficient and even last longer than the stock units, because they are of a newer design and generation.

The path of least resistance is to get an air pump off something in the junkyard, or on ebay. Rock auto has them for $50.

Bolt it on, put on the original, correctly sized belt, and forget about it for many years.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 07:41 AM
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frederic, that is good advice.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 06:23 PM
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i have run my 300 6 with the pump on and with it off but before i took it off i just plugged all my holes off. later on i done a 302 swap and imediatly took everything off. capped the line that runs from the cat to the back of the motor so the egr sucks just no emissions. shorter belt and no cat runs fine but SHHHH and don't tell and no one will know cause where i live emissions isn't a big thing.
 
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