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My trailer brake controller stopped working; it says that it’s not connected. It works on my brother in laws truck with the same trailer though. So I assume that something is bad between the controller and the trailer plug. I checked all the usual trailer towing stuff like fuses and relays, they are all good. My question is, does the wiring go all the from the factory connector under the dash to the trailer plug? Or are there connectors in between? My <st1></st1>POS Chilton manual (Ford shop manual on the way) does not show this wiring at all.
give some more info. what kind of controller? did you check at the plug? Are you getting a good connection? Try putting dielectric grease or even vaseline on your leads at the plug. leads my have a tiny bit of corrosion. when was last time you used?
sorry to hijack the thread, but my problem is related.
I just bought a Prodigy controller w/the Ford connecting harness. I installed it and hooked up to a new trailer at work used for hauling manlifts around and it says n.c.
Today I measured the voltage at the plug at the back of the truck and it is putting out voltage when you move the manual braking lever over, but the unit still says n.c. I measured just on the (-) and Trailer Brake pins.
What am I missing here? It seems like it works and is sending power back, but why does the unit still say n.c.??
what do you mean the ground isn't?? Did you connect to the (-) pin as shown on the cap of plug? Or are you actually connecting to a ground direct?
Any why does mine still say n.c. when connected to a trailer. I haven't actually tried to brakes on the trailer, I was afraid it wasn't working.
Do you think that if I have a connection between the brake pin and (-) pin and I'm reading voltage on my gauge, that the prodigy unit should display the voltage instead of n.c. or does it need to see something else?
Or are there connectors in between? My <ST1></ST1>POS Chilton manual (Ford shop manual on the way) does not show this wiring at all.
On my 04 F250 there are plugs in the harness going to the trailer connection in 2 places, 1 back near the spare tire, and another near the firewall, drivers side fender.
what do you mean the ground isn't?? Did you connect to the (-) pin as shown on the cap of plug? Or are you actually connecting to a ground direct?
Any why does mine still say n.c. when connected to a trailer. I haven't actually tried to brakes on the trailer, I was afraid it wasn't working.
Do you think that if I have a connection between the brake pin and (-) pin and I'm reading voltage on my gauge, that the prodigy unit should display the voltage instead of n.c. or does it need to see something else?
I tested continuity from the wire out of my Prodigy to the trailer connector with an ohm meter. They were not connected so the wire is broken or a connector is defective, betwwen the two pints.
I belive that you have a connection issue between the prodigy or that some wire are crossed. Does it work on another vehical or trailer?
On my 04 F250 there are plugs in the harness going to the trailer connection in 2 places, 1 back near the spare tire, and another near the firewall, drivers side fender.
I only found one by the spare and one just front of the gas tank. The gas tank one was the culprit. Well at least continuity wise, I'll hook up tomorrrow and see how it goes.
I only found one by the spare and one just front of the gas tank. The gas tank one was the culprit. Well at least continuity wise, I'll hook up tomorrrow and see how it goes.
I didn't see one in front of the tank on mine, but thanks for posting that as I'll re-check, maybe I have the same issue.
What did you do to repair the connector issue on yours?
Take a good look at the harness from the connector by the spare tire. It's notorious for chafing on the hitch frame and causing an open ground condition. I've had two SD's that had harness damage in same that same place. Also if your trailer socket is the factory original, it's probably coroded inside. You can unplug it at the spare tire connector and remove the whole connector assembly to examine on a bench. I found it easiest to just cut off the old FMC plug and replace it completely. Whole thing cost me like 20 bucks. No problems since.
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