CCV mod
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CCV mod
I am going to move the vent for my crank case because it is cramming oil into my intercooler tubes whic is causing one of the humps hoses to slip some.
I have searched and am unable to fnd a write up on this mod.....seems like it should be easy.....
I am just going to run the new vent line down under the truck. My question is, does it ever draw air back ento the engine through this vent? If that is the case, I will need to put some sort of filter on it.
If you know of a write up for this mod, can you forward me a link or let me know the search string you used to find it.
Thanks
WR
I have searched and am unable to fnd a write up on this mod.....seems like it should be easy.....
I am just going to run the new vent line down under the truck. My question is, does it ever draw air back ento the engine through this vent? If that is the case, I will need to put some sort of filter on it.
If you know of a write up for this mod, can you forward me a link or let me know the search string you used to find it.
Thanks
WR
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
You will get info on the CCV mod in the 99-03 forum. All these trucks have intercoolers.
I've done a couple CCV mods and route it into the exhuast. If it's done right you will get suction on the CCV and evacuate the crank case.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ccv-flack.html
I've done a couple CCV mods and route it into the exhuast. If it's done right you will get suction on the CCV and evacuate the crank case.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ccv-flack.html
Last edited by Cuda_jim; Apr 15, 2007 at 11:01 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
Yep, you eliminate the PCV completely.
I can tell you for sure that CCV mods on a gasser = HP. I've seen as much as 20 more HP on the dyno by just adding it. The really hot set-up is to use a vacuum pump. A lot of drag racers use 'em (big $$). A high Crank case vacuum will stop the piston rings from fluttering at higher RPMs, creating a better cylinder seal.
I can tell you for sure that CCV mods on a gasser = HP. I've seen as much as 20 more HP on the dyno by just adding it. The really hot set-up is to use a vacuum pump. A lot of drag racers use 'em (big $$). A high Crank case vacuum will stop the piston rings from fluttering at higher RPMs, creating a better cylinder seal.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
So, i just need to bypass the PCV and run a tube to my exhaust to create some suction out of the crank case?
remember, i'm a gas guy in the diesel forum. =)
Because I do not know what a CCV is.
Why would I want to elimate the PCV though?
Crap i'm getting my self confused.
Lets see, the PCV valve on my truck goes to the intake..
and i have the one off the oil fill that goes to the airbox...
*scratches head*
remember, i'm a gas guy in the diesel forum. =)
Because I do not know what a CCV is.
Why would I want to elimate the PCV though?
Crap i'm getting my self confused.
Lets see, the PCV valve on my truck goes to the intake..
and i have the one off the oil fill that goes to the airbox...
*scratches head*
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
The PCV is the same as a CCV just a different name. Although the PCV has a check ball in it cause it's on a gasser. If it didn't the engine would run like crap (vacuum leak). Diesels don't make manifold vacuum.
Anyway, you need to get rid of the PCV by plugging the manifold fitting and the other end (Some are in the v-cover, some not). Substitute the oil filler cap with an adapter I mentioned here: ( https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ccv-flack.html ), run a hose from that adaptor to a fitting welded into an exhaust pipe. The placement and angle of the welded fitting in the pipe is critical. Hope this makes sense.
You can get away with only one instead of like below:
Anyway, you need to get rid of the PCV by plugging the manifold fitting and the other end (Some are in the v-cover, some not). Substitute the oil filler cap with an adapter I mentioned here: ( https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ccv-flack.html ), run a hose from that adaptor to a fitting welded into an exhaust pipe. The placement and angle of the welded fitting in the pipe is critical. Hope this makes sense.
You can get away with only one instead of like below:
Last edited by Cuda_jim; Apr 15, 2007 at 04:07 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
I didn't find what you were talking about in the other thread.
I do understand where and how to put the tube into the exhaust, however I only need to hook up one side and it will pull out both?
I've never tore a v8 down, only v-twins, so I don't understand how everything inside them works pressure wise.
I'll be alright without the check valve, and the breathers though correct ? Just have to hook a hose up to the output on the oil fill, and run it to the exhaust?
Sorry if I seem confused, I like to get things right the first time. =)
I do understand where and how to put the tube into the exhaust, however I only need to hook up one side and it will pull out both?
I've never tore a v8 down, only v-twins, so I don't understand how everything inside them works pressure wise.
I'll be alright without the check valve, and the breathers though correct ? Just have to hook a hose up to the output on the oil fill, and run it to the exhaust?
Sorry if I seem confused, I like to get things right the first time. =)
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
I'm not sure if there is an Off-the-shelf adaptor for your engine. It may be something you need to rig-up yourself. Be sure that the "oil filler" adaptor is the only outlet from the crank case. The rest of crank case must be sealed from the atmosphere.
The best place to weld into the exhaust is after the y pipe. That way you will get the most air flow over the fitting, creating the most suction. It takes a bit of tweeking to get it right. After the fitting has been welded into the exh pipe place the hose on it and fire the engine. USe your thumb over the end of the hose and rev the engine.
Change the angle of the welded fitting (hammer) until you feel the most suction. The check valve stops the pressure pulses (reversal) that occur during sudden engine acceleration but goes away at higher and/or constant RPM.
The best place to weld into the exhaust is after the y pipe. That way you will get the most air flow over the fitting, creating the most suction. It takes a bit of tweeking to get it right. After the fitting has been welded into the exh pipe place the hose on it and fire the engine. USe your thumb over the end of the hose and rev the engine.
Change the angle of the welded fitting (hammer) until you feel the most suction. The check valve stops the pressure pulses (reversal) that occur during sudden engine acceleration but goes away at higher and/or constant RPM.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
Well, the thing is i have true duals, no y pipe.
Thats why i ask if i should seal my PCV up, or run a line from both.
I can just plug the PCV line and leave the valve in, I dont think it will go anywhere.
I'll talk to the guy who helps me with my complicated stuff, cause i'll have to use his welder. Pray i dont fry my exhaust, its brand new again. =) I love muffler man waranty
Thats why i ask if i should seal my PCV up, or run a line from both.
I can just plug the PCV line and leave the valve in, I dont think it will go anywhere.
I'll talk to the guy who helps me with my complicated stuff, cause i'll have to use his welder. Pray i dont fry my exhaust, its brand new again. =) I love muffler man waranty