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WRONG!!!
Like BPofMD said.. Get the correct pigtail adapter, it will plug in under the dash and plug in on the back of the prodigy. NO MATCHING WIRES, NO CUTTING, NO CRIMPING!!
Yes, you can custom order a matching pigtail, or you can use the factory provided pigtail and match the wires and crimp with the standard pigtale which comes for free with the unit.
The Ford trucks are wired for use with brake controllers to be Pluged in. Spend the 12.00 on the pigtail and have a PROFESSIONAL job done. When he is done with the truck and wants to go to a new rig he can pull the pigtail out easily and thare is no trace of HACKED wires. Also on the safety side... The connector on the pigtail is going to make a better and more secure connection over time and the risk of a bad connection is lessened. And my third point is that it will take about 3 minutes to pull the panel and install the pigtail v/s 30 to 60 minutes to locate proper wires and butt connect or solder and heat shrink tube them. Plus you have to get out tools to do the job. On my 79 GMC and 84 Chev I had to splice the pigtail in. On my 97 and my 99 i simply paid 12.00 and was done with it....
If you have to custome order it... go to a different shop everyone that sells the prodigy should gave these in stock
SAFETY
CONVIENANCE
PROFESSIONAL NON HACK JOB
Last edited by MARTYSTOWRIG; Apr 19, 2007 at 09:09 PM.
Prodigy controllers with serial numbers below 0130001 have a software problem that causes a false open ground condition: http//www.tekonsha.com/files/Technical%20Bulletin%20-%2020020060.pdf
If those on eBay have serial numbers of 0130000 and below, they don't have the new software installed (Version 2.4). Something to ask before you buy........?
Steve
Man, I'm glad I found this site. My Prodigy number is 72786. I think I'll have to give them a call after I return from my turkey hunt.
I think you missed my point... I didn't say tear apart the consol, I said take the factory pigtail and crimp it onto the standard pigtail that comes with the controller. You can custom order one that comes pre-crimped, but its 2 minutes work to do it yourself, professionally, and it does absolutely nothing to the truck itself. You still just unplug it when you are done and its back to stock. That's how ALL brake controllers work. The Prodigy is the first I've seen that had the option of a truck-specific pre-built pigtail option.
I got my new controller today... have to say it brakes wonderfully, but it still "snaps" as it releases the trailer. I figured that it would use the accelorometer to increase pressure as I stop, then relax that pressure as the vehicle came to a stop.
Did you warm up the trailer brakes before adjusting the power setting? The Envoy had that annoying "jerk" but my Prodigy doesn't, with a 17' boat or 24' 'Toon hooked up.
I am replacing my controller that came with the 5er toy hauler I just bought. When the seller took it off of his truck, it had something loose inside. It does not come apart easily but when I did get into it the part that rattled was a piece about 3/4"X1/4"X1/4". I determined it was the ballast that swings between a sensor of some type. It had been attached to a copper tab that was on a plastic bracket that rotated as you adjusted the level calibration ****. I have to say, I am UNIMPRESSED with this technology. Granted this is an old unit but, still, my $30,000 rig is being stopped by this piece of ????
I have purchased a Prodigy due to the glowing revues on this site. Has anyone taken their Prodigy apart to see if it is 1960's technology?
I got my new controller today... have to say it brakes wonderfully, but it still "snaps" as it releases the trailer. I figured that it would use the accelorometer to increase pressure as I stop, then relax that pressure as the vehicle came to a stop.
I can't remember the exact specs but after a given time at a complete stop (5 or 10 sec) the controller locks to a set % of max output (25%). This is to hold the trailer without burning out the brakes. I don't feel anything when I get off the brakes after a complete stop unless I am on a steep uphill and the trailer starts rolling a little backwards before I hit the gas.
I'm not talking a complete stop... I mean a rolling stop like you normally do without a trailer. Slow down until you are just about to stop, then release the brake to "roll" into the stop. MUCH smoother than just staying on the brake.
I just installed my Prodigy an dpulled my 32' Toy hauler for the first time. 2003 F250 V10 SD. After calibration, stopped beautifully. I did notice the push bump but attributed it to driving technique as I was able to avoid it by stopping correctly. It only happenned when I would let off the brake at very slow speeds <5 mph. Only when I let off the brake coming to a stop. I was able to avoid it by not lifting just coming to a complete stop with one pedal movement instead of pumping the brakes like I normally would. You know light, let off, light on, let off, heavier on to a stop.
Great controller. Very satisfied.
Regards,
FM
The P3 can be used on electric-over-hydraulic brake systems; that's probably why it's about 40% more than the Prodigy. Nice unit; if my Prodigy ever blows up.......
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