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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 06:21 PM
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Distributor identification

How many types of distributors/caps were there for a 79 351W? Ive been trying to get a set of plugs for the bronco, Its a female cap, with 90 degree boots, This is the second time ive had to go back to the parts store.. I even opened the box to check them and at a glance they looked like they were it. Of course when I get home they didnt. Prob my fault for being in a hurry, but how many types of dist. were there. I think that maybe I dont have a 79 dist in the 79 engine..
 
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 06:27 PM
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I just got to thinking, could it be a 302 dist in a 351 w with the plug wires re-routed?
 
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by v8xploder
How many types of distributors/caps were there for a 79 351W? Ive been trying to get a set of plugs for the bronco, Its a female cap, with 90 degree boots, This is the second time ive had to go back to the parts store.. I even opened the box to check them and at a glance they looked like they were it. Of course when I get home they didnt. Prob my fault for being in a hurry, but how many types of dist. were there. I think that maybe I dont have a 79 dist in the 79 engine..
NO 351W in either a Bronco or F Series truck till 1980. Only the Econoline had a 351W in the 1970's.

Count the number of valve cover bolts you have, let us know.
 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Apr 14, 2007 at 06:38 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 07:17 PM
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There are 6 valve cover bolts, the block casting number is d9ae-6015-ed-7 which according to my info is a 79 351W, O and it was swaped in by the previous owner... Who im finding out more and more everyday was a complete retard.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 07:47 PM
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The 302, 351 distributors are different due to the taller deck of the Windsor.

I believe there was only one type of distributor used in '79, the Duraspark II electronic. Most of them use the wide cap with the adaptor. And I believe that the caps are interchangeable through all of the V8's as long as you are matching ignition systems. Is yours electronic?

I'm confused on whether you are trying to find a dist cap or a set of plugs for your engine. If you're looking for spark plugs, the easiest way is to get a number off of one of the old ones for your parts guy to interchange.

Number Dummy,
Since he is dealing with an early Bronco, should be referring to the Windsor. Which is a direct swap for the 302, Not a 79 Bronco with a Windsor.

Jason
 
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 10:19 PM
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It finally dawned on me that my dist is a points style. I guess I havent delt that much with the late 70s and up ign systems and drew a blank when It came to getting wires. I got the wires on and everythings good... Except when I try to turn it over it sounds like the start solenoid goes "clunk" and she wont turn over. I switched out the soleniod with a spare that I had and i tried again, same thing. I touched the solenoid and it was really freakin hot... along with the + batt cable.... any ideas?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 01:18 AM
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Make sure you have a good battery and good connections. Check for power through the solenoid on the starter side with a test light to see if the solenoid is working.

Jason
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 11:19 PM
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all of the connections are solid. It feels like my ign switch is going bad (even thought its only 2 months old) I have to get it in the right spot for it to crank/clunk. Im going to try to jump wires and bypass the ign switch and see if she cranks. Why was everything getting so hot? Did the solenoid stick on?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by v8xploder
Im going to try to jump wires and bypass the ign switch and see if she cranks. Why was everything getting so hot? Did the solenoid stick on?
If you mean under the dash there's a resistor wire in the loom coming from the ignition switch. It's the pink wire IIRC. It drops the voltage to the coil when the motor is running. If you leave the key in the run position without the motor started it will get hot enough to melt!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 08:54 PM
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Jump the solenoid from the post with the red blue stripe wire to the large post going to the battery (make sure its in neutral). If your battery and solenoid are good, it should crank. If not, use a set of jumper cables to go from the pos battery post to the starter side of the solenoid to see if it will crank. If you are still getting nothing, you may have a bad starter or something is keeping your engine from turning. To check for a solenoid sticking, remove the red blue stripe wire and check for power on both large terminals on the solenoid.

Jason
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 05:50 AM
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I just re-read your original post. If the main power wire to the starter is getting hot it's usually either the starter is bad or the ground wire is bad. Your ignition switch could be sticking also but I would think that's a seperate issue.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 03:34 PM
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I have 12V on the start side of the solenoid and at the starter itself. Still just goes Clunk like the starter may be stuck.. I m going to pull it off one it quits raining and dries up.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 10:44 PM
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As Ken mentioned, make sure you have a good ground to the engine and starter. Also check that the engine will turn over by hand. If everything checks out, it sounds like you have a bad starter or it is hung up in the flywheel.

Jason
 
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 11:21 PM
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Im confused now if im not mistaken arent they case grounded?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by v8xploder
Im confused now if im not mistaken arent they case grounded?
Yes they are. I was thinking your engine block ground might not be up to snuff. From your last description it does sound like the starter. Have it tested before you get a new one.
 
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