Just got a '65
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New User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 6
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From: CT
Just got a '65
Hi Everyone,
I am new to this site and I have been doing alot of reading and saving/bookmarking of pages with ideas and instructions on how to do things. I beleive that is it a 352ci in it with 3 on the floor. I picked this truck up at an auction at a local towing company. it was left in a guy's yard and sat for 8 years. Like all older trucks it does need work. As of tonight i have the bed off and the cab should be coming off tommorrow as well. The cab supports are all gone and need rebuilding. seems the previous owner though by making L brackets and welding them to the frame and the floorboards to support the cab. i have also notice that there is a little bit of rot in the frame near the roadside shock absorber mount in the rear. no big issues there. I don't know if it has the right bed on it though. some of the other pictures i see there is a raised section of sheetmetal that comes over the tire and goes straight back to the end of the bed. Have to figure that out. Just though i would say hi and i am thankful for all the previous posts that have already answered all my questions. Thanks
ps. This is what the door tag says:
Warranty Number
F10DE684946
15 0 F100 381 A 07
500 172 ??? 13
Bottom line is kinda unreadable
I am new to this site and I have been doing alot of reading and saving/bookmarking of pages with ideas and instructions on how to do things. I beleive that is it a 352ci in it with 3 on the floor. I picked this truck up at an auction at a local towing company. it was left in a guy's yard and sat for 8 years. Like all older trucks it does need work. As of tonight i have the bed off and the cab should be coming off tommorrow as well. The cab supports are all gone and need rebuilding. seems the previous owner though by making L brackets and welding them to the frame and the floorboards to support the cab. i have also notice that there is a little bit of rot in the frame near the roadside shock absorber mount in the rear. no big issues there. I don't know if it has the right bed on it though. some of the other pictures i see there is a raised section of sheetmetal that comes over the tire and goes straight back to the end of the bed. Have to figure that out. Just though i would say hi and i am thankful for all the previous posts that have already answered all my questions. Thanks
ps. This is what the door tag says:
Warranty Number
F10DE684946
15 0 F100 381 A 07
500 172 ??? 13
Bottom line is kinda unreadable
Last edited by Krim; Apr 13, 2007 at 09:25 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 235
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From: Albany, Oregon
WEKCOME Krim to a great site with an even greater bunch of guys. Not much about these trucks that hasnt been done, dreamed about or written about. Post the VIN and someone will be along that can tell you what your truck came off the assembly line with. Again Welcome....................
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1
From: Escondido, CA
What you have is a 1965 F-100 4x2 built in May with a 352 at the Ontario plants. The 352 has 208 HP @ 4400 rpm. The 15 should be your wheel base but is missing a digit, O is light peacock body paint, f100 is 5000 GVW, A is a medium duty 3 speed with, 07, 3.25 rear gears. The bottom line is confusing me a tad.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,836
Likes: 3
From: Elizabethtown, PA
There's some pictures of my '65 here. This would be the correct smooth side bed in '65.
If it's got a bed like this truck, then you've got a 57-63 bed on it. If it's neither of those and not a stepside, then, uh, we need a picture.
If it's got a bed like this truck, then you've got a 57-63 bed on it. If it's neither of those and not a stepside, then, uh, we need a picture.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by Krim
This is what the door tag says:
Warranty Number
F10DE684946
15 0 F100 381 A 07
500 172 ??? 13
Bottom line is kinda unreadable
Warranty Number
F10DE684946
15 0 F100 381 A 07
500 172 ??? 13
Bottom line is kinda unreadable
F10 = F100
D = 352 2V
E = Mahway NJ Assembly Plant
684946 = 1965
15 = Wheelbase ? (no 1965 F100 had a wheelbase beginning with 15)
O = Light Peacock
F100 = F100
3 = Medium Green Crush Vinyl / Medium Green Wicker Pattern Vinyl
81 = 81A Standard Cab
A = 3 Speed Manual All Syncromesh Transmission
07 = Ford 9 Inch Rear Axle / 3.25-1 / 3300 lb Axle Capacity
500 = 5000 GVW (500 should read 5000)
172 = 172 HP
??? = RPM
13 = New York City District Sales Office (where truck was ordered by dealer from)
Last edited by NumberDummy; Apr 14, 2007 at 09:30 AM.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: CT
Thanks Guys for the good information on the truck, it is well apprecieted. Looking at the bed in the daylight, after taking it off yesterday there is not much left of it. I have pics posted in my gallery i beleive of the bed when it was on the truck. unless someone wants this bed in Connecticut, by all means come and get it, or I'll take it to the scrapyard on the flatbed later this week. The guy couple doors down it doing a frame off restoration of a 56' F100 and offered the bed to it, but i can see from a distance that it looks way to small to go on my truck. Looked into the engine today, taking off the valve cover and there is so much like gunked up crud all over insode the valve covers. Anyone know of any kind of cleaning oil to run thru the engine while it run to help clean of this? and the other question i had is what is better to do for painting the frame? Undercoat? Primer and paint? what works the best and lasts would be a better question. Thanks again.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
Frames were painted black originally. Powder coating them is one way to go, but that's very expensive and labor intensive. If it was me, I'd use a Rhino Lining or similar bedlining material. Auto parts stores now carry it in gallon cans. The material can be brushed on, it dries in minutes...and is very durable. Rust has no effect on it. You can also use this stuff in place of undercoating. Painting the underside of the body/inside of the fenders is a good way to prevent rust. The material is also available in colors.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 8
From: Clarksville,Tn
As others have post; congrats on both joining FTE & for getting a Slick. Since you mention frame painting I thought I give my two cents worth; as Bill mention powder coating is probably the best/ most expensive. However if your like most of us and funds aren't pouring in, then I recommend using a paint called Hammer; both Krylon & rustoleum make it in quarts & rattle can. Its very durable; easy to spray & heat dueable; especially if you do proper prep work.
Again glad to hear of another Slick saved. Welcome...
Mitch
Again glad to hear of another Slick saved. Welcome...
Mitch
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,836
Likes: 3
From: Elizabethtown, PA
Your truck decodes as a 1965, so that's what it probably is. FYI though, the grille is from a '66. All the grilles interchange easily.
There is a product called Rislone you can run through the engine to clean the gunk out. However, I'd be very careful doing this, as loosening up all the sludge may end up causing more problems with blocking passages. Until you can do a teardown for rebuilding and hot tank all the engine parts you may be better off leaving it alone.
Your truck is a shortbed by the looks of the photos. That '56 bed should actually fit. The only problem using the older beds is the height of the fenders on the bedsides is different and may look odd on the truck. Ford used the same stepside bed all the way up through the 1970s. Another upside of the stepside bed is you can buy the entire bed reproduction and not have to mess with fixing rotten metal.
Finding a smooth side shortbed will not be easy. Not that they don't exist, but it's the most popular truck to fix up, so you'll be competing with every other guy out there for one. The beds normally only have rust issues at the very front of the floor unless they are really bad.
There is a product called Rislone you can run through the engine to clean the gunk out. However, I'd be very careful doing this, as loosening up all the sludge may end up causing more problems with blocking passages. Until you can do a teardown for rebuilding and hot tank all the engine parts you may be better off leaving it alone.
Your truck is a shortbed by the looks of the photos. That '56 bed should actually fit. The only problem using the older beds is the height of the fenders on the bedsides is different and may look odd on the truck. Ford used the same stepside bed all the way up through the 1970s. Another upside of the stepside bed is you can buy the entire bed reproduction and not have to mess with fixing rotten metal.
Finding a smooth side shortbed will not be easy. Not that they don't exist, but it's the most popular truck to fix up, so you'll be competing with every other guy out there for one. The beds normally only have rust issues at the very front of the floor unless they are really bad.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
It's a 1965, because that was the last yr a Ford truck had a gas pedal bolted to the floor. After 1965, the gas pedal is suspended. In March 1966, Ford obsoleted the 1965 grilles and replaced them with the '66 grilles. That's the major reason today that '65 grilles are somewhat hard to find. Ford no longer stocked them after February 1966.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Me thinks you have a real Heinz 57 truck. The 352 looks correct, cab is 65, grill is 66, bed is bumpside (67-72) tailgate closer to 72.
Make it what you want and enjoy your new toy.
John
Make it what you want and enjoy your new toy.
John
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
From: Glendale, AZ
AS far as the frame is concerned I would check price on Powdercoating. They sandblast all parts before they are powdercoated. I had mine done 2 years ago with the frame, differentail, brake parts,crossmembers and front end parts. That cost $550 in Phoenix at that time. I also used the hammertone powdercoating to help hide any flaws.
It was well woth the money. You can't hardly buy good paint for that.
kstones63
It was well woth the money. You can't hardly buy good paint for that.
kstones63
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by jowilker
Me thinks you have a real Heinz 57 truck. The 352 looks correct, cab is 65, grill is 66, bed is bumpside (67-72) tailgate closer to 72.
Make it what you want and enjoy your new toy.
John
Make it what you want and enjoy your new toy.
John
When the 1967 Ford F Series trucks came out, Ford replaced the earlier 1964/66 Styleside tailgate (C4TZ-9940700-A) with the 1967 tailgate (C7TZ-9940700-A). The '67 style tailgate was used on all the 1967/72 F Series trucks.