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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 11:31 AM
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Trans problem

I think my trans finaly let go this morning. It had been shifting firm for the last year or so, and this morning while leaving a light it was pulling fine and then there was a noticable pop, and it felt like it went into neutral. I pulled over and shifted it into every gear and nothing happened.

Did I just lose the transmission or could it be something else?

If it is the trans should I get a new one or rebuilt?

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 11:32 AM
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I've got a little over 200,000 miles on it.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 11:57 AM
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What transmission do you have? C6? E4od? other?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 12:16 PM
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It could be the trans, or it could be something else. That's as precise as I could get with all the information that you put in your post.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 02:53 PM
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I belive it is an E4od trans. It is a 93 F250. Ive never had a problem out of it, other than it shifts firm, and sometimes the od light blinks on and off. The drive shaft looks fine. When you shift it to drive or reverse it does nothing now.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 05:52 PM
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At 200,000 miles, your trans has done very well for that year of E4OD, but that doesn't mean it's dead just yet, I would check the color and condition of the tranny fluid, and check for any fault codes that may be in the computer.

You may also consider droping the tranny pan and checking it for sludge or exesive metalic filings.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 03:00 PM
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The trans fluid looks and smells fine. I'm getting a code 62 which I think is a transaxle pressure switch or converter clutch failure.

Is there a way to test either of those problems?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by kickstarter
The trans fluid looks and smells fine. I'm getting a code 62 which I think is a transaxle pressure switch or converter clutch failure.

Is there a way to test either of those problems?
I'm not sure, but I think you are right about code 62 (can anyone else confirm the definition of code 62?).

If its a converter clutch failure, than you may be in for a new torque converter, did you notice the lockup slip at all?

In theory (I think), if the EPC (electronic pressure control) solenoid has failed, it is possible that line pressure could have cut out completely.

Also, are you able to manually put it into second gear?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 08:36 PM
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It won't move at all in any gear.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 08:25 AM
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When mine went with the simular results my input planetary gear had cracked and the input shaft was just spinning and not transfering any torque to the rest of the transmission and I had to be towed back to town for a complete rebuild. Good luck....
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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Its definatly a possibility, the aluminuim carriers of some of the E4s are not the most serviveable gear sets ever made, but I think there would have also been some other uncomfortable noises coming from the tranny if that were the case.

kickstarter, have you dropped your pan to see if there are any debries in there?

Also, do you know if your torque converter is factory original? I ask because the earlier ones are known for "exploding" (theres not much holding them together internally) and sending shrapnel through the trans.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 08:55 AM
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If you don't get any movement forward or reverse and you heard a pop sound I would think it's broke. If this is 2wd, is the drive shaft turning in drive or reverse? If 4WD, what about the transfercase? Even with a total electrical failure, you will still have the limp mode. Hard parts failure is not reserved to the E4OD. You need to remember 1989 was the first year, so some years were required to find the weak links. I don't think that it was intended to perform a severe service role in the initial design. You do not need to do every update either, depending on what you are planning to do with it. At any rate it will probably need to come apart.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 09:21 AM
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Code 62 is telling you there is a problem with the torque converter interal locking clutch. The only way to fix this is to replace your torque converter.

Can you get reverse, first or second gear by manually downshifting to these using your shift lever? If not and your fluid level is up like you said you should pull your oil pan next.

My guess would be the oil pan is full of metal shavings from your torque converter clutch that chewed itself to pieces.

You could try and change the filter, put in new oil and see if that gets you going again, but bottom line with metal in the pan your tranny is due for a complete overhaul. E4OD are expensive to overhaul if you want it done properly. I would say about $3,000 minimum, anything less you are not doing yourself a favour in the long run.

Make sure you get a quality replacement torque converter, RV grade or better. Usually the pricier the better the quality.


Seb.....
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 08:31 PM
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A good TC will have furnace brazed internals, multi-clutch lockup (I would recomend 3 if turbocharging) updated aply piston (OEM will usually develop cracks) anti-ballooning reinforcement, and if you have a free flowing turbo setup, a billet cover is also a good idea.

The big weakness in the stock torque converter is the fact that the turbine blades are not held in place well enough, and over time the joints can (uaually do) fatigue untill something comes loose and causes very bad things inside there....



kickstarter, I think the easiest thing you can do for now is drop the pan and look for signs of a mechanical failure. Good luck.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 10:37 PM
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I'm going to pull the pan this weekend and take a look.

The drive shaft does not turn when in drive or reverse.

The Ford dealer has new transmissions with the converter for about $2100.

I'm driving my 67 IH pickup right now.
 
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