Mud Bogging..
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Mud Bogging..
Hey guys, this summer I want to get into a little mud bogging, nothing really big. I plan on buying an older ford pickup, anything from 1973 to 1990, and put a lift and some bigger tires on it and just go have some fun. I'm not gonna put any serious money into it, I just wanna have some fun with it but still have it street legal. So I was just wondering if anyone could share some tips and stories about going through mud so when I get ready to I'll have any idea of what to do so I won't sink my truck right away!
And if you have any ideas of cheap things I could do to a truck that would be really helpful as well.
Thanks
~85
And if you have any ideas of cheap things I could do to a truck that would be really helpful as well.
Thanks
~85
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 2
From: Hawkeye Country
if i were looking to do it cheap I'd skip the lift.
first and foremost get some decent tires, 31x10.5s fit under mine stock. If you can try to hunt down a truck that has somewhat decent factory gears 3.55 or 3.73, again if you can do it with out swapping gears it'll be cheaper in the long run. for serious mud, and stuff, a locker in the rear is a must, while you're down there might as well put on up front to.
it all depends on how "cheap" you think cheap is. i spent 325 bucks on my 82 f100, and 450 on my 86 f150. then figure maybe another 500-750 for tires and other parts. it should be easy to do it all for 1000-1500 bucks if shop around.
do some shopping around, try to find a truck with as much stuff as possible, good luck.
first and foremost get some decent tires, 31x10.5s fit under mine stock. If you can try to hunt down a truck that has somewhat decent factory gears 3.55 or 3.73, again if you can do it with out swapping gears it'll be cheaper in the long run. for serious mud, and stuff, a locker in the rear is a must, while you're down there might as well put on up front to.
it all depends on how "cheap" you think cheap is. i spent 325 bucks on my 82 f100, and 450 on my 86 f150. then figure maybe another 500-750 for tires and other parts. it should be easy to do it all for 1000-1500 bucks if shop around.
do some shopping around, try to find a truck with as much stuff as possible, good luck.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
watch putting too much lift on and bigger tires, most places have class rules setup by tire size, you run over 33 and your in modified some places and then you have to race guys like me, and you don't want to do that with a full bodied truck.
As to running bogs drive it like you stole it.
As to running bogs drive it like you stole it.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Thanks for the info guys! I was thinking of spending 2K maybe 3K at the most, if I get a nicer truck. I am thinking of a '78-'79 supercab with a 351M or 400. Would it be better to have a manual or auto tyranny? Also, I'm gonna be using this as a daily driver in the winter.
I love your Ranger Monsterbaby, it's wicked..
I love your Ranger Monsterbaby, it's wicked..
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
Thanks
As to what to buy, manual or auto, truthfully an auto works better in competition but since your going to use it as a daily driver and occasionally go play with it just buy what you want to drive.
As to what to buy, manual or auto, truthfully an auto works better in competition but since your going to use it as a daily driver and occasionally go play with it just buy what you want to drive.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 668
Likes: 3
From: NW Kans
get a 70's model pickup with a solid front axle. 390 engine will wrap quicker than 351 or 400 and give more power than 360. headers are available. less weight than 460 is questionable. auto trans. stall converter optional. 33 inch tires probably fit with no lift and keep u in stock class. cut fenders if necessary. weld rear or both diffs with front lockout hubs. cheap, competitive, driveable.
