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I have a like new condition BBQ propane bottle that I am considering converting to a compressed air tank for the air horns on my truck. The one that I have on the truck now is only good for about 3 seconds and then it's out. WAY too small. The pump cuts off at 135 psi.
Anyone have any feedback or ideas? Or warnings?
I've done this a couple of times to use to blow up tires, etc., but only as a storage tank that I could fill myself, and then only to around 60 psi or so. Not sure what sort of issues you'd get into using a propane bottle as a holding tank for a compressor. You might talk to a "Hank Hill" type about any possible problems you'd run into.
You do know Hank Hill, doncha? He sells propane and propane accessories.
That's just it, I don't know the operating pressure of a propane cylinder.
But if they are rated to hold, for instance, 225 psi, than I don't see any problems with 135 psi.
We had an one of the bigger propane cylinders that we used for years as an air tank for an air compressor. Actually, the compressor finally locked up, but the tank worked just fine for air. I also used to use one of the larger cylinders on a smaller compressor when I painted with an airgun. It gave me a lot more capacity, so that the compressor wasn't running constantly.
Be careful, I don't think the propane tanks are treated to carry compressed air. The moisture in the compressed air may cause the tank to rust. So it may go KABOOM after a while. Just spend the money and be on the safe side and get the right tank so you don't have to worry about it.
They used to sell a kit at the hardware stores that came with everything needed to convert propane tanks to air tanks but I have not seen any around here lately.They had a safety valve that would pop off at 125 psi or just a little over if I remember correctly.
Most air tanks aren't treated on the inside to protect against rust--they're just bare steel. That's why if you don't drain your compressor's tank for a while, the water you drain out will be a rusty brown. Tanks, when they do fail, are much more likely to develop a pinhole leak that grows to a point where the tank is unusable than they are to fail suddenly and catastrophically (though it does happen on occasion). Either way, both types of tank are quite thick to where even if they do start to rust, they would still be plenty strong for 20-some years or more, unless you're filling them with strong acid.
If it's pressure-rated for twice your application or more, use it.
The newer tanks have an OPD valve. If you keep the stock valve (it'll have a non-removable triangular handwheel), it will work as long as you keep the tank upright. If you turn it on it's side the float might close and restrict your airflow, muting your airhorn.
The vapor pressure of propane is 257 psi at 130 degree F. 128 psi is the vapor pressure at 80F. The tank should be fine for your pressure requirements of 135 psi.
Many modern propane systems use a safety device called an excess-flow POL. This is the fitting that attaches to the tank, usually right at the input to the regulator. It will typically have a very small hole in the end, as well as a spring-loaded plunger inside. The purpose of this device is to limit the maximum flow rate of propane from the tank. If you open the propane tank valve too quickly, the plunger will cut the gas flow to a trickle. This limited flow will be maintained until the pressure equalizes up- and downstream of the POL and the plunger resets. If you have a major failure - say a gas line breaks off - the POL will keep the propane from gushing out and becoming a huge fire hazard.
Might have to get rid of this if you want any kind of volume through your horns.
The newer tanks have an OPD valve. If you keep the stock valve (it'll have a non-removable triangular handwheel), it will work as long as you keep the tank upright. If you turn it on it's side the float might close and restrict your airflow, muting your airhorn.
The vapor pressure of propane is 257 psi at 130 degree F. 128 psi is the vapor pressure at 80F. The tank should be fine for your pressure requirements of 135 psi.
Good to know.
I was planning on removing that whole assembly and just putting an adapter in the threads.
But first I will paint the inside of the tank with something like POR-15 to protect it.