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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

1965 cab mounts

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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 10:21 AM
  #1  
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1965 cab mounts

I have a 1965 F250 Camper Special 2wd with long box. I've noticed that the clutch is not engaging (I have trouble shifting because it isn't disconnecting the engine from the tranny). I'm planning on adjusting the clutch, but I've noticed that my cab mounts are badly rotted. I understand that sagging cab mounts can cause the clutch to go out of adjustment, so I'm guessing the cab mounts will need replacing soon.

I was looking for 1965 cab mounts and I couldn't find any. Are they called something different in that year? Are they even available? If not, can I use/modify cab mounts from a 1966 or later?

I have a welder, cut off tool, sawzall etc. so I'm not shy about fabrication if that's the only way. I don't store this vehicle in a garage, polish it and take it out once a year. It's a utility vehicle for me, so having it be exactly original does not matter to me. I just want to keep it working!
 
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 10:40 AM
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HI Hakk, I just bought cab mount kit for my 66 f100 from LMC Truck, Part #40-0124
And $79.95 for the set


Bill W
65-66 F100s
 
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 11:00 AM
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Some parts stores sell them (the cab corners) I have not used them. The ones at the parts store are a thin version that basically slip over the existing cab corners. I have cut them from other trucks and used them. You are talking about the whole metal support not just the rubber bushings right?
If you want to cut and use the whole metal support from a donor truck you can use 65-79. If you are going to purchase them then you should go ahead and get the rubber mounts also.

Also how is your floor pan above those cab corners? and your rag joint on your steering column?

Here is a link about the clutch adjustment that may be interesting to you also

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ch+adjustments

Wally Womack
 

Last edited by Pro-Street/StateTK; Apr 7, 2007 at 11:11 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 04:57 PM
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Thanks for the information. Are the 66 cab mounts the same as the 65, or do I need to replace the bracket on the frame as well? I'm just worried because the parts book doesn't say that the parts are for the 65 model year. Bill W, could you take pics of the mounts you got and send them to me at mykle at comcast.net (remove spaces) or post pics?

I went and looked at the clutch linkage and there was very little adjustment left. I decided not to adjust it. The cab mounts are sagging really badly. I went and TEMPORARILY put 2x4s between the floor pan and the frame rails just to prevent it from sagging further. The clutch works perfectly that way.

So now I'm not going to drive it until I get the new cab mounts put in. The floor around the mounts seems solid enough for the moment, so I think I can replace just the mounts for now. I'm planning on cutting the existing mounts so that the flanges stay on the pickup. Then I will grind the flanges just enough to clean them and weld the new mounts onto the old flanges.

I know it won't be exactly right, but will that cause any problems?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 06:53 PM
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Hakk
In the parts catalog's that I have and I have them from 65-79 in there they are the same part number (the cab corners) and visually they look the same too. Now if you are talking about the kit That I think Bill W is talking about it sounds like the thick rubber washer thing (mount).
and no you dont have to change the bracket. They are so durable they will probably last 100 years LOL.
Also when cutting them out (If you decide to get them from a donor truck)
be sure to leave the long piece that goes under the cab/floorboard if you can, it is a thicker metal.

Years ago I did bolt a set in a truck seems crude but it did solve the problem

oh yeah the 2x4's been there done that (bought a truck that way) LOL

Wally Womack

PS Welcome to FTE (forgot to say it in my first post!)
 

Last edited by Pro-Street/StateTK; Apr 7, 2007 at 07:01 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 07:02 PM
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1965/66 F100/250 2WD uses the same cab mounts according to the parts catalog.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2007 | 01:35 AM
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Yes all 1965-1979 ford trucks share the same cab mounts. The only reason they wouldn't work for a 65 is if the 65 was actually a 1964. In some states if a 1964 model vehicle was sold in 1965 it was titled as a 1965. One of the easiest ways to tell if you have a 64 or 65 is when you open the door, is there a 5 inch step, if so it is a 64. A 65-66 have a small 2 inch step.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2007 | 01:20 PM
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Thank you all for the help and for the welcome. I'm excited to make this fix to my '65. I'm sure that it is a '65. Thank you for the "how to" identify that as well.

I joined this forum about a year ago when I first bought the pickup. It's a 352 four speed with about 50,000 miles (farm truck). Last year I put in a Pertronix unit, tune up parts, new passenger side exhaust manifold, dual reservoir master cylinder and front suspension/dual piston caliper discs from a 78 F250.

It has a fair amount of rust, so it should provide some good welding practice. :-)

edit: oh and thank you for the reminder to check the rag joint. It would not be good to have that fail!!
 

Last edited by Hakk; Apr 8, 2007 at 01:28 PM.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 06:31 PM
  #9  
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Well, I got the new sheet metal parts and the mounting hardware. Does anyone have any advice on locating / welding them in?
 
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Old May 9, 2007 | 12:27 PM
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Hey Hakk, There are some pics in my gallery of firewalls showing the cab mounts. Maby they will help, If you dont have a spot weld cutter Buy one.
 
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Old May 9, 2007 | 02:19 PM
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Bill W. Thanks for putting up some pics of the Cab mounts, that will aid me in putting my new ones in, since mine have totally rusted out.

Does anyone have pics of the underneath near the cab mounts that i could view? In my gallery is all i have to work with so all the visual help is a plus, thanks.
 

Last edited by IB Tim; May 12, 2007 at 04:21 AM.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 05:23 PM
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Thanks for the info and the pics are helpful. However, you people who live in arid climates make me SO jealous! There's just a tiny bit of surface rust and you're replacing parts! Mine are pretty much rusted away and I don't think I'll be able to even find the spot welds.
 
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