I've read as many of the "no start" and "no spark" threads as I could find, but nothing really seems to relate to my problem. I'm hoping somebody might be able to throw me some more ideas to try out. Here's my situation:

I gave my Bronco a mild tune up the other day - PCV valve, plugs, cleaned the K&N, etc. Other than the EGR error code (#33 in memory caused by my dead EGR valve) she was purring along pretty nicely. For some silly reason, I decided to check the timing - bad idea. I couldn't unstick the distributor, so I tightened the clamp back up and decided to leave well enough alone, at least until I fix the EGR valve. Put the tools away, checked all my connections, buttoned her up and went to pull her out of the drive - won't start.

I ran a KOEO test, no errors except the #33 in memory. Checked out the wiring around the distributor to see if I had disturbed something, everything looked ok. Pulled out my spark tester, no spark from plug wires, no spark from coil. Cleaned and reconnected the connectors between the coil and the ignition module, everything nice and tight. Tested voltage and resistance on the coil and distributor wires - everything within spec. With a test light on the coil negative terminal, I got a nice bright light but it didn't flash when I cranked the starter over. That made me think bad ignition module, so I pulled the distributor and replaced the module.

With the new ignition module installed, I got the flashing test light from the coil, but still no spark and no new error codes. Now I'm thinking bad coil, so I replaced it and retested - I've got good spark at coil and plugs now, but it still won't start. I ran another KOEO test, and now I'm getting a code 21 (ECT sensor out of range) and 24 (IAT sensor out of range). These are both temp sensors - how can they be related to the engine not starting?

I plan to run some more tests tomorrow related to the ECT and IAT error codes, and I'm recharging the battery tonight (even the Optimas get a little tired after 3 days of endless cranking). I can't help thinking that I'm missing the big picture somewhere in all these details. What could I have done to blow the ignition module and the coil (not to mention whatever the new codes uncover)? Any other ideas, suggestions, comments??

daumer
1990 Bronco XLT (302)

 

Can you hear the fuel pump running? Also, during all this cranking while trying to find the problem, I wonder if it is flooded now? Try holding the pedal to the floor and see if it tries to clear up.

 

Well, here's an update for anyone who might be troubleshooting the same kind of problem. I got her started today - turned out to be a timing problem. After confirming over and over that I had both fuel and spark, I figured it must be timing and went back through my distributor installation. The first time I put it back in, I used my Haynes manual. I double-checked the procedure using my Chilton's manual, and there was a slight difference - Chilton's said to set engine to TDC then adjust to the specified initial timing (10deg) before re-installing the distributor. That made the difference, and it's running great now. Still not sure what I did to blow the ignition module and the coil, but at 90k miles I guess they were probably due anyways.

BTW - for anyone who's seen the sample pages of Dali Design's EEC-IV handbook online - buy it! I referred to it many times over the weekend, and there's some really good info in it for the price.

daumer
1990 Bronco XLT (302)

 

I did the same thing- Timing is the easiest thing yet its a pain in the ****. I just got mine ,89 302 ,running last night, but its pinging on acceleration. I was wondering about the timing marks- My Bronc has a hole, a notch, and a pointer on the timing cover pointer? Do you know which one the timing mark is supposed to line up with? Thanks for your help

 

Daumer, I'd definitely replace the ECT anyway, it can cause hard start problems, particularly in the cold.

 

The reason you got the ECT and IAT codes were because the engine was cold. You should have the engine warmed up before running the KOEO test, as you can get false codes. I ran into the same thing on my Bronco. After warming the engine up, the codes were gone.

 

I lined the time marks up with the right-most edge of the pointer, and it seemed to work good for me. It was hard to tell for sure - if I ever had any markings on the pointer, they wore off long ago.

daumer
1990 XLT (302)