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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Steering Wheel Help

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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 10:25 PM
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Steering Wheel Help

Hey guys, my truck will not start, the starter turns the motor at 900rpms {tach} and it wont fire. Needed a new distributor anyway, so i replaced that, it still shut off at highway speeds, but now it wont even start at all, so tomorrow im going to AUTOZONE to get an ignition and a bunch of other parts i was told by people on here. I was just wondering how do i get the steering wheel of, by not tearing it up. My truck is a '80 F-150 351M manual. Im young and dont want to tear anything up. So i need some step by step instructions from the pros. Thanks in advance and is there anything else i could change while im in there. I already searched and found nothing

Taylor

P.S. im thinking about putting a body lift on my truck (3 inches) what are the pros/cons of doing this.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 10:40 PM
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Why do you want to take the steering wheel off? I am assuming to change the keyswitch? You shouldn't have to take the wheel off to do that.

Anyway, take the screws out of the back of the wheel, and pull the center cover off. Then take the nut loose, and make sure you find the mark or make a mark to to line the wheel with the shaft. Then take a steering wheel puller and pull the wheel off.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 11:59 PM
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How did it run before you told us it wouldn't start...or has it never started ?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 07:48 AM
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I've replaced a lot of parts on this model and never have had to pull the steering wheel. If it's cranking, there's probably nothing wrong inside the steering wheel.

You should trouble shoot some things before you pull out your wallet. First I'd buy a repair manual....Haynes is adequate for most things.

Follow the electrical from batt to plugs. Start with the coil then go on to dist and to the plugs. Do you have current when and where you should? (key on 'run')
Next, do you have fuel to the carb? Pull the air cleaner and look into the top of the carb while someone else pushes on the accel pedal. See gas spraying?

These are just air, fuel and electric. It's gotta be one of the three and usually air is OK.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Mil1ion
How did it run before you told us it wouldn't start...or has it never started ?
it ran like a top before that, then i drove it to school, with my mom, i have a learners permit, and it shut off, it took about 1 minute of cranking and it fired back up, it did it 2 more times on that trip, then my dad drove it and it didnt happen to him, of course, but we parked it and i went out to start it, wouldnt start, so i had a new distributor that needed to go on the truck. so i put it on, fired right up, drove it about 12 miles and just when we thought we fixed it it shut off. about 3 minutes of frustration and cranking it fired back up. came home parked it, changed wires, plugs, and it started right up again. went out to drive it one day, wouldnt start and hasnt start yet, it happened about 1 month ago. My dad got the little (energy turns the light on little screwdriver deal) and it didnt light up, (the wire going from coil to distributor.) my soleinod is good, replaced it right before this happened. Starter is good, (less than 10000 miles) Im running out of idears. Some body told my dad of a "pickup coil" that is inside the distributor that could be causing it, is this true. And while i was putting on the distributor, after it had fired up, there is allittle movement of the plastic on top when i move to left to right, not the metal part, just plastic, could this cause it.

Thanks,
Taylor
 
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mtflat
I've replaced a lot of parts on this model and never have had to pull the steering wheel. If it's cranking, there's probably nothing wrong inside the steering wheel.

You should trouble shoot some things before you pull out your wallet. First I'd buy a repair manual....Haynes is adequate for most things.

Follow the electrical from batt to plugs. Start with the coil then go on to dist and to the plugs. Do you have current when and where you should? (key on 'run')
Next, do you have fuel to the carb? Pull the air cleaner and look into the top of the carb while someone else pushes on the accel pedal. See gas spraying?

These are just air, fuel and electric. It's gotta be one of the three and usually air is OK.
everything the hanynes manual said, i fixed and it still doesnt work, dad says theres a wire telling the coil to go, or something like that, and it must be shorted or something, yes i have fuel, it gets to smelling when i crank it(pumping it) yes, just checked the gas is spraying , its gotta be the electric. any other idears..

Thanks,
Taylor
 
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 06:26 PM
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I suspect it may be as simple as a wire losing contact from vibration

Or

a heat related problem.

Here is a Test procedure for testing the Ignition Module.

Btw, that tool is called a "Test Light"

click me
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...estcloseup.JPG
 
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Mil1ion
I suspect it may be as simple as a wire losing contact from vibration

Or

a heat related problem.

Here is a Test procedure for testing the Ignition Module.

Btw, that tool is called a "Test Light"

click me
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...estcloseup.JPG
were taking the module in tomorrow for autozone to test it, for free, thats what i thought the test light was called, but it sounded to simple. Sorry guys, about saying i need to take steering wheel of, it was the ignition switch i was trying to get to, not the key switch, i replaced the ignitoin switch and still doesnt fire, went to autozone and they said the only thing left is the module or the coil. The guy said bring the module in and we'll test it, if its not the module, im buying the coil. Ill bring updates tomorrow, thanks again guys

Taylor
 
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 10:21 PM
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They can test the coil as well.

Here are the coil values




You may need the Pickup module in the distributor checked out?

 

Last edited by Mil1ion; Apr 6, 2007 at 10:23 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 12:32 PM
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Talking

Originally Posted by Mil1ion
They can test the coil as well.
They told me that to, i took both of them in, they tested the module first, it passed 2 out of 5 or 6 fields, i told them not to check the coil because i thought the module was the problem, dad said it is rairly the coil because it has no moving parts. I bought the module and put it in, fired on the first crank, drove it around and it is good to be back in the saddle. Even though it blew black smoke like a diesel on the first hill, hasnt smoked since. Thanks guys for the help, you especially mil1ion.

Taylor
 
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