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Lookin for a Sub setup.. I'm getting the box from Supercrew Sounds.. But curious as to what I should get..
I got an 04 F250 Crew Cab Super Duty... I'm getting the box for behind my rear seats.. I have metal racks under the bottom of the seats I don't want to loose..
I'm looking for something that isn't going to blast into the seats, guess Low Profile? And what size amp to push it.. I'm not a hardcore music guy who wants his ears ringing or his rearend vibrated to death.. I do like a little thump.. I have a Pioneer AVH-P6800DVD 7" Headunit and Crossfire Speakers in the doors..
If you are getting the box from them go ahead and get the image dynamics subs too. They are a great sub especially for the price. I prefer the IDQ series over the ID. That is what I replaced my JL audio sub with in my stealthbox and it sounds a lot better.
As far as an amp goes that depends on the subs. I've never had any problems with any of my amps, matter of fact I have 4 of them now cause I keep getting new ones when I build a new stereo, but the old ones all stil work so I still have them.
Last edited by Beerstalker; Apr 5, 2007 at 03:21 PM.
I just talked to mark and it'll be 711 - 10% discount..
Thats the Dual 10" Box that allows me room on the side agaisnt the back wall to mount the sub (I have the metal racks).. Then an Alpine 600 watt 2ohm Amp and 2 10" IDQ V2 2ohm Subs..
Look online for the amp wiring kit, you can usually find them a lot cheaper than any stereo shop will sell them for. One place I have found good prices on interconnects is Parts Express. Otherwise if you want to just buy bulk wire to hook up the amp welding lead wire works pretty well and can usually be found locally a lot cheaper than car stereo wire since you aren't paying for the "pretty".
Car audio wire does not cost more then welding wire because it looks nicer. It costs more because it has more strands in it making it more flexible. That and the plastic insulation is fuel and oil resistant with car audio where welding wire may not be designed to resist such things (although it still probably does).
Car audio wire does not cost more then welding wire because it looks nicer. It costs more because it has more strands in it making it more flexible. That and the plastic insulation is fuel and oil resistant with car audio where welding wire may not be designed to resist such things (although it still probably does).
I hate to be a booger..
But just an idea.. What exactly do they teach you at the Installer Institute? I heard of those places but thought it was funny that they had a place to teach you how to install a Stereo.. Guess theres more to it then I see?
Car audio wire does not cost more then welding wire because it looks nicer. It costs more because it has more strands in it making it more flexible. That and the plastic insulation is fuel and oil resistant with car audio where welding wire may not be designed to resist such things (although it still probably does).
Actually the welding wire I used had smaller strands and was easier to bend than most car install wire of the same guage, but you are right some is thicker. As far as the insulation goes a lot of the time welding wire insulation is better because it is made to be drug on the floor, exposed to hot sparks of steel, and many chemicals. I'm not saying car audio wire is bad, just that a good welding lead wire will do the job well, and is cheaper a lot of the time. I believe I paid about $0.80/ft for 1ga wire.
Actually the welding wire I used had smaller strands and was easier to bend than most car install wire of the same gauge, but you are right some is thicker. As far as the insulation goes a lot of the time welding wire insulation is better because it is made to be drug on the floor, exposed to hot sparks of steel, and many chemicals. I'm not saying car audio wire is bad, just that a good welding lead wire will do the job well, and is cheaper a lot of the time. I believe I paid about $0.80/ft for 1ga wire.
Well if the welding wire you used had smaller strands then either the welding wire you were using was that Superflex stuff or the car audio wire you are comparing it to sucked. I use to be a welder and now I am a car audio installer so I have a lot of experience with both car audio wire and welding wire and I can tell you most welding wire has less strands and is stiffer to bend. But there are of course acceptions.
But yes welding wire will work fine. I have used some 3/0 AWG welding wire in my install.
Where did you get 1 AWG for $.80 a foot? I would love some of that.
Yeah the welding wire I used had strands about the same size as good speaker wire. I could bend it in a loop with about a 3" diameter pretty easily. I bought about 50 ft of it cause I was installing a generator and stereo into an old Church bus that my company made into a party bus. I ran one big wire into a oak cabinet we built inside and then had a distrubution block that split it up for the 3 amps and power inverter to run the computer and monitor. It is a pretty cool setup, but I was never able to get rid of the buzz in the speakers from the power inverter. It hasn't been used in about a year so I haven't worked on it any more either.
Bought the stuff from a welding supply shop in East Peoria. I guy I work with buys a lot of stuff there so I got his discount. I think it was normally like $1.20/ft but that's still a lot cheaper than most stereo shop stuff.
You can also sometimes find used chunks of welding cable at swap meets even cheaper.
I'd be careful of buying amp wiring kits if they're some no-name brand, you can't always trust the specs. My nephew bought a Pyramid kit that claimed to have 8 gauge wire; the cable turned out to be mostly insulation, and the actual conductor was smaller than 16 gauge speaker cable.