HELP!!! no spark.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
HELP!!! no spark.
First off i just want to say thanks, im in my first rebuild, and with out this site i would have made a lot of mistakes.
Im pretty much done, i rebuilt a '69 390, it ran fine before i started the rebuild, and the only reason i rebuilt it, is pretty much every gasket and seal leaked oil, bout a quart a week, i left everything stock, cept the cam, now just trying to get it running but i have no spark?
i replaced plugs, wires, points, condenser during the rebuild. I have volts at the coil from the ignition, i have a good ground through the dist. i checked for spark from the coil wire but nothing. so naturally i replaced the coil, but still nothing.
i believe the ballast resistor is in the wire? but not sure.
im at a loss, from what i can tell i should be getting spark, but im not.
anyone have any ideas??
Im pretty much done, i rebuilt a '69 390, it ran fine before i started the rebuild, and the only reason i rebuilt it, is pretty much every gasket and seal leaked oil, bout a quart a week, i left everything stock, cept the cam, now just trying to get it running but i have no spark?
i replaced plugs, wires, points, condenser during the rebuild. I have volts at the coil from the ignition, i have a good ground through the dist. i checked for spark from the coil wire but nothing. so naturally i replaced the coil, but still nothing.
i believe the ballast resistor is in the wire? but not sure.
im at a loss, from what i can tell i should be getting spark, but im not.
anyone have any ideas??
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,574
Likes: 4
From: Golden, CO
Measure while cranking.
There are two ignition circuits, one is fed from the second small terminal on the solonoid. It supplies power to the coil while cranking.
The other circuit is fed from the ignition switch when the key is in the "run" position.
There are two ignition circuits, one is fed from the second small terminal on the solonoid. It supplies power to the coil while cranking.
The other circuit is fed from the ignition switch when the key is in the "run" position.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Thanks for the reply
So heres what i have at the "+" terminal on the coil...12+ vdc when the key is in the "on" position, and 10+ vdc when cranking, which seems right to me with the starter drawing some of the volts. yet i still have no spark at all, none from the plug or the coil wire.
Bad coil from the parts store maybe? just seems odd that the new coil and the old coil would do the same thing?
So heres what i have at the "+" terminal on the coil...12+ vdc when the key is in the "on" position, and 10+ vdc when cranking, which seems right to me with the starter drawing some of the volts. yet i still have no spark at all, none from the plug or the coil wire.
Bad coil from the parts store maybe? just seems odd that the new coil and the old coil would do the same thing?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
Hmm... a few things to check:
First, make sure the distributor is turning when you crank it over. Doubtful it's a problem, but you never know. It is possible to shear the pin holding the gear to the shaft and when you turn the engine over, neither the distributor nor the oil pump will turn. If I recall correctly
Second, put a test light between the + side of the battery and the wire from the points to the coil (with it disconnected from the coil) and see if the light flashes. If it doesn't, there is a major open/shorted circuit there (condensor, points not opening/closing, etc).
Come back and tell us the results.
First, make sure the distributor is turning when you crank it over. Doubtful it's a problem, but you never know. It is possible to shear the pin holding the gear to the shaft and when you turn the engine over, neither the distributor nor the oil pump will turn. If I recall correctly
Second, put a test light between the + side of the battery and the wire from the points to the coil (with it disconnected from the coil) and see if the light flashes. If it doesn't, there is a major open/shorted circuit there (condensor, points not opening/closing, etc).
Come back and tell us the results.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
yeah ok im an idiot....found the problem.
the exccesively large terminal end from the condenser was just barely touching the distributor, grounding itself out...ugh...but i did get it started runs like a champ. im gonna have to read up on timing though, cause im absolutely clueless...right now with it idleing at about 800 im getting about 19 from TDC...i havent gotten on the road just yet so we'll see how that goes.
thanks for all the help.
the exccesively large terminal end from the condenser was just barely touching the distributor, grounding itself out...ugh...but i did get it started runs like a champ. im gonna have to read up on timing though, cause im absolutely clueless...right now with it idleing at about 800 im getting about 19 from TDC...i havent gotten on the road just yet so we'll see how that goes.
thanks for all the help.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 8
From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by scoot2969
i rebuilt a '69 390,...the only reason i rebuilt it, is pretty much every gasket and seal leaked oil, bout a quart a week
Justin's EGR thread's got me to thinking about the old days when i first bought my pickup and having all those company pickups to drive,
Gelco (General Electric Leasing) would change out a Chevy 350sb Qjet at 65,000 miles because it'd be using a quart of oil a day! :) And not from leaking it.
Fords wouldn't be changed out until they had 110,000 miles. That extra mileage was a whole nuther year and that year really took a toll on the upholstery etc.
Chevy's were more fun to drive since I didn't have to pay to keep them going and you'd get a new one every 2 to 2+1/2 years instead of 3+1/2 years.
I knew all the guys at the "Chevy house" and knew none of the guys at the "Ford house". One time a new Ford wouldn't run and turned out to be water in the gas tank (neighbor kid stealing gas) and later in the day when i went to get the pickup... I was among strangers. That's when it dawned on me how friggin fragile them Chevys were. :/ There was always something broken on them. :/
I bought a Ford. :)
Special ordered it in Nov '74.
Alvin in AZ (Bowie AZ signal maintainer in the mid 70's)
Trending Topics
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 8
From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by aMoneypit
CAM BREAK IN???? New cams don't like to idle at 800!!!!!......aMP
Yeah, only after at least 20 minutes of running -twice- at ~2200rpm on old VWs.
Start it up never letting it idle, run it 20 minutes at ~2200rpm then stop it, drain the oil and make adjustments where needed while checking everything over, then, start it up again never letting it idle again and run it another 20 minutes (at least) then stop it and drain the oil again.
I suppose the time changes on different engines with the different valve spring pressures?
What should a guy do on a FE with say a "RV;)" cam in it? :)
The whole point is the brand new cam's lobes are soft and need to get work hardened, right quick.
Running fast makes the oil splash keep it lubed good.
I'm sure that's just a start on what all's going on tho. :/
Alvin in AZ
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote