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Which type of gas do I use, or what additive??? The motor in my 66 as far as I know is the original motor which should take Regular gas right?? I have been running unleaded since I completely forgot about leaded gas. The truck itself seams to run fine so I don't know. Any ideas??? Do you think it's fine to run UL gas in it, or if it is not running badly then maybe the motor is no the original???
John
Your valves need the lead to help cool and lubricate them. Without the lead they will eventually erode far enough into the valve seat that you will have performance issues. You should be using some type of lead additive, allthough I am not familiar with them. The long term fix is to pull the heads and have hardened valve seats installed. Not an inexpensive solution, but it is necessary if you run it much. After that it's just a matter of pulling in and filling up with your favorite brand.
Have you had the truck for long, or know it's history? Just seems over all these years, with the engine running fine, I would not be surprised if the engine, or at least the heads, have not been gone thru by now. If not, then as prostock noted, additive or hardened seats. Could liven the discussion up a little by getting into type oil to use on these vintage engines. Oil additives are, or have been removed as a result of the modern engine. one issue at a time, Again, welcome.
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; Apr 4, 2007 at 05:10 PM.
I don't think you need to do anything or add anything as long as you don't run it hard. I don't have any problems at all with my valves, maybe if you are planning on putting a lot of miles then add a lead additive or have the seats done. Tom
If you're going to putt around the ranch that's one thing, but any kind of RPMs or highway type speeds means that leaded fuel must be used. Additives work but are expensive and really need to be used doubled up. The cost will pretty quickly exceed getting the heads fitted for hardened valve-seats.
You can still buy leaded gas near a race track or at a race track. It can only be put in a fuel container and not in a vehicle, and will cost between $5-8.00 per gallon. Prices could vary in your neighborhood.
Thanks Jon,
So I guess that means people either mainly run unleaded and/or have some work done on the engine? Can using lead additives stave off the inevitable?
Yes, but I recall a study that indicated the additives ideally be used at several times their recommended strength to be effective, and used at every fillup. Figure additional $10 or so per tank? Wouldn't take long to add up. The valve seat erosion occurs very rapidly at highway speeds but otherwise I wouldn't worry about it too much. I use my truck a lot so I had the heads worked at rebuild. It's not that expensive.
Ted, You could be over reacting to a concern that isn't there. Wait until you have a problem then address it.........or just pull all of your hair out.
FWIW- I recommend using the additive. lead substitute. i ruined a 300 6 cylindar and a 352 engine. both ended up with serious valve problems. i 'm not saying that not using the subtitute is what did it, all i'm saying is i started useing on my other three engines and they are still running strong. my 2cents on that.also i buy the additive at a farm related oil business . comes in a quart bottle with a metering spout. one quart will do 200 gallons of gas at about 15 bucks . most parts houses sell the additives for one fillup at about 5 bucks a pop. Dutch
Ted, You could be over reacting to a concern that isn't there.
No worries here mate here but he asked a question. A pretty good one. My 64 has been rebuilt and the heads cost extra $$ - More money for the shop, and less in my wallet, that's for sure with the new valve seats. Maybe it's a scam, then? Sorta like turning disc brake rotors? Big scam.
"Wait until there's a problem", however, isn't in my vocabulary you're right about that.