My check engine light has been on since my mom bought the truck over 3 years or so ago. Today I finally went into autozone to have the codes pulled and the guy tried it but it didnt work. He said it was probably something wrong with whatever the code checker thing plugs into and that they change things often but this is a 99. He told me to go talk to some guy about a part but I just wanted to talk to you guys to see if you know whats going on here or if I can get what I need cheaper on the internet.

Thanks for any help

 

I'd suggest going to another parts store and asking them to check the codes.

 

Yea, Ill try that while im out today. The guy just kinda seemed wierd about it but I already didn't trust him before I went in the place so..........

 

If this is about your 99 Ranger, check the DLC/Cigar Lighter 25 amp fuse #15, in the cabin fuse panel, before having another code reading attempt, as rubydist suggested.

When you get the codes pulled, post ALL the codes found & the order in which they were retrieved, for analisis, before you throw any parts at the problem.

 

Just traded my wife's 2000 Explorer on a new Focus.

That Explorerer's check egine light came on at around 50,000 miles and was still on at 120,000. Never had a problem with it.



Kev

 

well directions and then traffic/construction pissed me off beyond belief today so after I got to my primary destination I said screw the auto shop, but it worked out great because I got to see paw paws ^^^post.

This is the 99 ranger and actually the cigar lighter doesnt work however are you sure its number 15? The numbering is kind of strange on there. I did happen to have a 25 amp fuse laying around but its about double size as the one in the fuse panel in the truck.

And can anyone verify im looking at the right panel(the one to the left of the steering wheel) I just want to make sure.

 

Same thing happened to me!
Went to Autozone to retrieve the codes and the OBDII didn't work?
Got mine tester at eBay used Actron 9135 $48 total w/ship (used)
works perfect, came with the manual and a filthy odor like cat urine or something on the book LOL!
one month later I still can't remove the smell, after trying everything from Fabreze to baking soda.

 

WOOPS, my bad, can't type, it's position 17 & it's a 25 amp fuse & yes it's the fuse panel on the drivers side of the dash.

This fuse supplys power to the cigar lighter & the DLC connector to power the scantool when it's plugged into the DLC.
If this fuse in blown or missing, the scantool won't work, so it can't extract any stored codes.

 

Thanks, yea I just realized my manual had the fuse diagram and 17 was definatly blown. My friends always complained about the cig lighter not working but I don't smoke so I didn't really care.


EDIT: Also tonight for the first time I noticed a little bit of a squeaking type noise when turning the steering wheel back and fourth. Do I need powersteering fluid?

 

Would'nt hurt. A little belt dressing in case it's the belt. I like to drain and refill the power steering fluid from time to time. I find it gets dirty too, and it helps.

Fred

 

Ah, to live in a state where emissions are not a concern...

Here in CT, every two years a vehicle has to go in for an emissions check, and a CEL = fail test = must fix.

 

OK I finally got the codes:

1999 Ranger 3.0 FF

DTC P1000
OBD Systems
Readiness Test
Not complete

DTC P0401
EGR Flow
Insufficient


I dont know if the first one is a problem with the scanner or my engine

 

P0401 could be a problem with the DPFE sensor, or an acting out VSV, or maybe a dirty of sticking EGR valve, or plumbing, or maybe leaking or poorly fitting system vacuum lines to the DPFE, VSV, or EGR valve itself.

So you need to look over the system's condition & do some careful trobleshooting. Look through the "Tech Info" thread for cluse on how to troubleshoot your system.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Well, I would like to test the DPFE sensor test except I have no clue what this page is talking about:

http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/Ra...tage-Test.html

1.key on

2.harness remains plugged into sensor (WHAT HARNESS)

3.Check DPFE SIG for proper voltage (AHHHHHHHHHHH!@!!!!!! GEEEETHANKS.........Exactly Thats what im trying to figure out how to do by looking at this guide.............)

Sorry, If im retarded but do I need some special harness here or can I check this with my multimeter and if so how? Is there an actual guide for that

 

Well the computer provides a "Reference Voltage" to the (V-Ref) connection, to the DPFE sensor, thats usually between 4-6 VDC.

So you could disconnect the DPFE's wiring harness electrical connector, inspect it for corrosion, pin, socket, or wire damage & if ok. measure for that voltage at KOEO (Key On Engine Off). If the computers reference voltage isn't present, there is likely a problem between the computer & the wiring harness electrical connector your probing.

If the voltage is there, then using a vacuum pump/pressure tester, apply vaccum & or pressure to the DPFE hose connections, as your repair manual calls for & back probe the signal return (sig rtn) wire & see if that voltage to the computer is changing. If not, suspect the DPFE sensor is acting up.

The DPFE is a common problem part for many P0401 EGR codes.

If it checks out ok, then look to the EVR (Electronic Vacuum Regulator) & make sure it's working ok. The EVR gets pulsing electrical signals from the computer, that set it's working duty cycle & that in turn causes the EVR to apply vacuum pulses to the EGR valves diaphragm, which causes the EGR valve to open & close, in tune with those vacuum pulses.

So if the computer isn't sending those reference voltage pulses to the EVR, or if it's leaking vacuum, or is sticking, or has damage to it's vacuum lines, it'll cause the EGR valve to act out.

So you can begin to see, there are several things indirectly controlling the EGR valve & all of them have to be in good working order, for the EGR valve to do it's thing.

For example oops recently had a P0401 problem that replacing the DPFE sensor, (which without testing, is what most folks do when they have a P0401 code) didn't fix her problem.

Turned out her EVR was leaking & not applying enough vacuum to operate the EGR valve properly.

But then she was having mid range driveability problems, that you've not reported.

So to properly do some good diagnostic testing, you'll likely need a repair manual & purchase, or make loan of, a pressure/vaccum pump tester, preferably one that has a attached, combination pressure/vacuum gauge.

Harbor Freight & Salvage has them for a reasonable price, or you could pobably make loan of one, from your favorite autoparts stores "Loan-A-Tool" program, to do your testing.
With it you could check out the DPFE, EVR & EGR valve, to see if they & all attached vacuum lines are working propely, when vacuum or pressure, as needed, is applied.