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Looking at ordering the wicked wheel for my truck gere in a few days and wanted to know if there is anything else I should got for the turbo. Was looking at Pure Diesel Power and they had a turbo reinstall kit. Would it be worth getting since I will be taking it out? Truck only has 51,000 miles on it. Not sure if I will be getting it from there, seen it cheaper at Xtreme.
Make sure Xtreme Diesel has their wheel in stock before ordering, sometimes they're back ordered because it's such a great price. I recommend dieselsite.com Bob is awesome to work with and his WW comes with free pedestal o-rings.
Also look into the non-turbo-removal WW installation method. It can be done without pulling it. Go HERE and look down at the bottom of the page. I haven't done it yet myself as I'm still considering whether or not to get the WW, but if I do, I figure I'll try it without pulling the turbo. Worse case is that you end up pulling it, and most (if not all) of the steps you already took need to be done to pull it anyway...
BTW, there is an edit function so you can fix posting boo-boos. The post has to be pretty fresh -- you can't edit older posts. Look on the bottom right of your recent posts next to the "quote" button.
Hey FTE, are the pedestal o-rings what is probably causing the small oil leak down the back of the block? I only get one or two drops a day but I have not had time to investigate it further. Would tightening up the bolts on the pedestal work best or would I have to replace the o-rings?
Hey FTE, are the pedestal o-rings what is probably causing the small oil leak down the back of the block? I only get one or two drops a day but I have not had time to investigate it further. Would tightening up the bolts on the pedestal work best or would I have to replace the o-rings?
You'll need to look into that more closely. There are a few things that could cause the drips back there, so you'll need to narrow it down. Spray the area with some Simple Green or the like (covering sensitive areas) and hose it down. Then just keep an eye on it and see if you can find the source. The oil on the back of my block was coming from the CAC tubes. After the CCV mod, and a fresh cleaning, it's staying dry.
Of course, mileage and age has a lot to do with this. Mine only had 60k on it when I got it.
Also look into the non-turbo-removal WW installation method. It can be done without pulling it. Go HERE and look down at the bottom of the page. I haven't done it yet myself as I'm still considering whether or not to get the WW, but if I do, I figure I'll try it without pulling the turbo. Worse case is that you end up pulling it, and most (if not all) of the steps you already took need to be done to pull it anyway....
Actually, the worse case that I've read about is a broken turbine blade. Even if you put tape on the screwdriver before wedging it in there, you can chip or break a blade because they're very brittle.
Actually, the worse case that I've read about is a broken turbine blade. Even if you put tape on the screwdriver before wedging it in there, you can chip or break a blade because they're very brittle.
Okay, worse case *without breaking it* is that you have to remove the turbo to install it. In the post I saw about the broken blades, the guy failed to pad the screwdriver. Pay attention to that step...
im told by many rebalence isnt necessary, and and told by some that it is, so take you pick, but instead of a WW, I prefer the ATS ported housing with the stock wheel,
too many people complain about loosing the low end with the WW. and the ATS flows more and completely gets rid of surge and flutter.
That's why I'm on the fence about the WW. I'm not towing 13k+ loads, so I'm more concerned about performance on the street vs. towing up a 5% grade. When I get to that point, I'll worry about it. Too many other mods to get done first.
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