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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 06:39 PM
  #1  
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From: Elmendorf AFB, Anchorage
Wicked Wheel

Looking at ordering the wicked wheel for my truck gere in a few days and wanted to know if there is anything else I should got for the turbo. Was looking at Pure Diesel Power and they had a turbo reinstall kit. Would it be worth getting since I will be taking it out? Truck only has 51,000 miles on it. Not sure if I will be getting it from there, seen it cheaper at Xtreme.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 06:40 PM
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Damn spelled here wrong.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 06:55 PM
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If you are going to pull the turbo you will need to replace the pedestal o-rings
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 07:22 PM
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Make sure Xtreme Diesel has their wheel in stock before ordering, sometimes they're back ordered because it's such a great price. I recommend dieselsite.com Bob is awesome to work with and his WW comes with free pedestal o-rings.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 07:57 PM
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Don't get the turbo reinstall kit, because it is just unpractical to spend $70 on the kit when you only need four small o-rings.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:09 AM
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Also look into the non-turbo-removal WW installation method. It can be done without pulling it. Go HERE and look down at the bottom of the page. I haven't done it yet myself as I'm still considering whether or not to get the WW, but if I do, I figure I'll try it without pulling the turbo. Worse case is that you end up pulling it, and most (if not all) of the steps you already took need to be done to pull it anyway...

BTW, there is an edit function so you can fix posting boo-boos. The post has to be pretty fresh -- you can't edit older posts. Look on the bottom right of your recent posts next to the "quote" button.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 06:43 AM
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Hey FTE, are the pedestal o-rings what is probably causing the small oil leak down the back of the block? I only get one or two drops a day but I have not had time to investigate it further. Would tightening up the bolts on the pedestal work best or would I have to replace the o-rings?
 
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 06:57 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by jeffthralls
Hey FTE, are the pedestal o-rings what is probably causing the small oil leak down the back of the block? I only get one or two drops a day but I have not had time to investigate it further. Would tightening up the bolts on the pedestal work best or would I have to replace the o-rings?
You'll need to look into that more closely. There are a few things that could cause the drips back there, so you'll need to narrow it down. Spray the area with some Simple Green or the like (covering sensitive areas) and hose it down. Then just keep an eye on it and see if you can find the source. The oil on the back of my block was coming from the CAC tubes. After the CCV mod, and a fresh cleaning, it's staying dry.

Of course, mileage and age has a lot to do with this. Mine only had 60k on it when I got it.

Joe
 
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 01:23 PM
  #9  
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Thanks, Izzy351, I'll give that a try first . My truck is an 'o1 w/ 57,000 miles on it.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:05 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
Also look into the non-turbo-removal WW installation method. It can be done without pulling it. Go HERE and look down at the bottom of the page. I haven't done it yet myself as I'm still considering whether or not to get the WW, but if I do, I figure I'll try it without pulling the turbo. Worse case is that you end up pulling it, and most (if not all) of the steps you already took need to be done to pull it anyway....
Actually, the worse case that I've read about is a broken turbine blade. Even if you put tape on the screwdriver before wedging it in there, you can chip or break a blade because they're very brittle.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:24 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by ernesteugene
Actually, the worse case that I've read about is a broken turbine blade. Even if you put tape on the screwdriver before wedging it in there, you can chip or break a blade because they're very brittle.
Okay, worse case *without breaking it* is that you have to remove the turbo to install it. In the post I saw about the broken blades, the guy failed to pad the screwdriver. Pay attention to that step...
 
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:30 PM
  #12  
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what about having to re-balance the turbo? or is that not needed if you only changing the blades out. either in place, or taking the turbo out.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:38 PM
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im told by many rebalence isnt necessary, and and told by some that it is, so take you pick, but instead of a WW, I prefer the ATS ported housing with the stock wheel,
too many people complain about loosing the low end with the WW. and the ATS flows more and completely gets rid of surge and flutter.

4 in. intake ATS vs/ 3 in. intake stock garrett.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:39 PM
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Good question MTDewX... I've wondered about the same thing.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 04:44 PM
  #15  
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That's why I'm on the fence about the WW. I'm not towing 13k+ loads, so I'm more concerned about performance on the street vs. towing up a 5% grade. When I get to that point, I'll worry about it. Too many other mods to get done first.
 
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