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I have a 2001 Super Duty V10 with 78,000 miles. I just rebuilt it with new main and rod bearings, seals, oil pump and lash adjusters. It is still ticking. I tightened the plugs so now it is quiet for the first 30 seconds then starts. Would checking the plugs hot be suggested?
I also installed headers with stock exhaust.
I have good oil pressure (checked with a dial gage in the sender port) 75 lbs so that is not the issue.
your sure its not the injectors ticking ?
or exhaust leak,broken manifold
What do you mean you tighten the plugs and it went away?
Could your plug boots be bad an arching
After I did the rebuild, it was still ticking when I started it. I was going through the usual checks when I discovered a loose spark plug. I tightened it and checked the rest and found others were loose. I tightened them and started the engine. It was quiet for the first few moments and then the ticking started again. As it is now, it's quiet when I first start it then after a few moments, the noise starts.
I have checked for exhaust leaks and found none.
BTW, I went to headers after I found the second set of broken studs.
OK... I just got back in from trying that and found no loose spark plugs. I also checked the injectors and they are normal.
Last edited by nootcheez; Apr 2, 2007 at 10:28 AM.
Reason: Additional Information
It may be that normal V10 "piston slap". My 2000 F250 does it and my 2000 X doesnt. My F250 has always done it (well since I bought it 40,000 miles ago). It does it with Mobile1 5w-30 and MC 5w-20 and 30. It may just be normal.
Does it go away after the truck warms up? Or does it always tick?
It may be that normal V10 "piston slap". My 2000 F250 does it and my 2000 X doesnt. My F250 has always done it (well since I bought it 40,000 miles ago). It does it with Mobile1 5w-30 and MC 5w-20 and 30. It may just be normal.
Does it go away after the truck warms up? Or does it always tick?
Does piston slap go away when warm? I doesn't seem to go away when it's warm in fact it may be marginally worse.
I used a stethescope on the injectors and found none outrageously loud.
I did the rebuild during the Christmas holidays. I put in Bosch Platinum spark plugs.
There are no Heli-coils in the heads.
I'm starting to angle towards piston slap. What causes it?
Piston Slap is caused by skirtless pistons and loose tolerance. "Loose Tolerance" doesn't mean that's it is "outside" the given tolerances, but that it's on the small side of the scale.
But, there is a definite difference in a tick and a slap.
Let me ask why you did the rebuild ?
Piston slap goes silent after warm up.
What causes it ,The short skirt pistons used and the type of piston used.When cold it shriinks when hot it expands .With a short skirt and the rotation it tends to rock more in the bore till it heats up and expands.
Unless you have excessive piston to cylinder bore clearances .
Did you replace any wrist pins or chk the rods for twist or other problems.
Tell us the extent of your rebuild
You are describing a ticking noise,a type of electrical tick or a mechanical tick???
Mr Big ,sorry I was typing as you were posting
Didn't even see your update till now ,you dirty old man!!!!
But short skirts are nice from where we sit in our trucks !
Rich
On edit :I'm going to take a guess and say this is electrical tick and its caused by the Bosch plugs.
This ignition system doesn't like anything but oem plugs.
Rich
Last edited by FortyFords; Apr 3, 2007 at 10:04 PM.
Let me ask why you did the rebuild ?
Piston slap goes silent after warm up.
What causes it ,The short skirt pistons used and the type of piston used.When cold it shriinks when hot it expands .With a short skirt and the rotation it tends to rock more in the bore till it heats up and expands.
Unless you have excessive piston to cylinder bore clearances .
Did you replace any wrist pins or chk the rods for twist or other problems.
Tell us the extent of your rebuild
You are describing a ticking noise,a type of electrical tick or a mechanical tick???
Rich
I did the rebuild because I had low oil pressure (0 at idle in gear). When I got the engine apart I found deep gouges in the main bearings. I replaced them and the rod bearings as well as had the crankshaft redone (welded and turned to fill several deep gouges there). When the oil pressure left, it damaged some of the lash adjusters. I replaced all of them.
No work was done on the pistons or wristpins as these were OK.
After the rebuild, the pressure was very good (75 lbs at idle using a guage in the sender port).
I filled the lash adjusters with oil but did not "pump them up" as I figured that they would pump up once the engine was started.
I will admit that I have been running on the supposition that they did just that. Was I mistaken and should I have pumped them up manually. If so, it's not a problem to do. They are relatively easy to get at.
BTW.. I did run it with cam covers off and the heads are awash in oil.
Last edited by nootcheez; Apr 3, 2007 at 10:19 PM.
Did you chk the lobes on the cams for excessive wear also?
also if the oil pressure went away it may have wiped out the cam chain tensioners or the chain. I believe there is a plastic or nylon guide that gets worn.
Its been awhile since I had one apart.
Also there is a counter balance shaft in this motor was its bearings chkd.
have you found a area where you think the noise is coming from
Art ,didn't want to cause information overload on our new person.
But yes now that we know what is up ,it could be alot of things that might have been overlooked.
Rich