Header Installation
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Header Installation
Anybody on here running headers on a 4.0L and did the install themselves?
Wondering if it was worth it to do the install yourself, or better to pay a shop. Did you spray the bolts ahead of time, and if so for how long? Did any of them break?
Just trying to get an idea of whether I want to attempt to go at this 150K mile truck that's a little tight on space on the passenger side.
Any stories, suggestions, etc. welcome. Thanks.
Wondering if it was worth it to do the install yourself, or better to pay a shop. Did you spray the bolts ahead of time, and if so for how long? Did any of them break?
Just trying to get an idea of whether I want to attempt to go at this 150K mile truck that's a little tight on space on the passenger side.
Any stories, suggestions, etc. welcome. Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
Not having done it yet, I cant say too much. My plan is to put the headers in place with the engine out, then drop the new 4.0L in.
I have put a set of headers on a 390 in an old pickup truck though. It wasn't too bad. Time consuming, and you have to figure you'll spend at least 1/2 hour scratching your head trying to figure out how to wedge 'em in there, but it beats paying a shop to do it!
I did replace exhaust manifold gaskets though. I suggest you get a good 6 point 10mm socket. By good, I mean SK brand or such. Most of 'em will have rusted down a little, and you do not want to round 'em off! Take your time. I used a mixture of brake fluid and axle lube (3 parts brake fluid to one part axle lube) on the backside of the hole on the top bolts. Let 'em soak for a day or so, reapplying the stuff every hour or two. Then work 'em out very carefully. Back 'em out a little at a time, turning 'em back in when you feel there's too much resistance. They should come right out.
I have put a set of headers on a 390 in an old pickup truck though. It wasn't too bad. Time consuming, and you have to figure you'll spend at least 1/2 hour scratching your head trying to figure out how to wedge 'em in there, but it beats paying a shop to do it!
I did replace exhaust manifold gaskets though. I suggest you get a good 6 point 10mm socket. By good, I mean SK brand or such. Most of 'em will have rusted down a little, and you do not want to round 'em off! Take your time. I used a mixture of brake fluid and axle lube (3 parts brake fluid to one part axle lube) on the backside of the hole on the top bolts. Let 'em soak for a day or so, reapplying the stuff every hour or two. Then work 'em out very carefully. Back 'em out a little at a time, turning 'em back in when you feel there's too much resistance. They should come right out.
Last edited by rusty70f100; Apr 2, 2007 at 11:29 AM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
So back them out, if you feel any resistance, turn them in slightly, and apply more lube and let it sit?
I'm sorry Kurt, I'm not catching where you put the brake fluid/axle lube mixture.
I'm sorry Kurt, I'm not catching where you put the brake fluid/axle lube mixture.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
There are two exhaust bolts per cylinder, holding the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head. The top one is drilled through, like the FE. As such, you have an opportunity to put the fluid on the back side, where it will do a lot more good than if you put it on the head of the bolt. Go pop the hood and look at it; you'll see what I mean.
You'll feel a lot of resistance! It's when there's "too much" resistance that you need to turn 'em back in. If you've ever broken a bolt in anything, you'll know how much is too much. If I had to put a number on it, I'd say no more than 50 ft-lbs after you've got 'em broken loose. But dont sit there with a torque wrench; you'll know when it's too much.
For the top bolts, generally take 'em out a turn or two, apply more lube, then turn 'em back in. Repeat this several times. Gets the lube good and worked in to the threads.
You'll feel a lot of resistance! It's when there's "too much" resistance that you need to turn 'em back in. If you've ever broken a bolt in anything, you'll know how much is too much. If I had to put a number on it, I'd say no more than 50 ft-lbs after you've got 'em broken loose. But dont sit there with a torque wrench; you'll know when it's too much.
For the top bolts, generally take 'em out a turn or two, apply more lube, then turn 'em back in. Repeat this several times. Gets the lube good and worked in to the threads.
Last edited by rusty70f100; Apr 2, 2007 at 12:56 PM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Ok sweet...I'll check the engine out later tonight and see if I can see the top manifold bolts, that makes it good that I can spray the back side, outta make it a lot easier. I'll just keep spraying and praying.
I pulled manifolds off a 350 SBC without too much difficulty with more than 250K on it. But the engine was out of the truck and on a stand, which of course makes it a lot easier. Also put headers on a 5.3L SBC without too much difficulty, so I think I can handle this, just wondering if anything major was going to get in my way.
The one thing I'm worried about a lot is the two bolts that connect the manifolds to the Y-pipe...they look to be real hard to get to, any suggestions on those?
Thanks again.
I pulled manifolds off a 350 SBC without too much difficulty with more than 250K on it. But the engine was out of the truck and on a stand, which of course makes it a lot easier. Also put headers on a 5.3L SBC without too much difficulty, so I think I can handle this, just wondering if anything major was going to get in my way.
The one thing I'm worried about a lot is the two bolts that connect the manifolds to the Y-pipe...they look to be real hard to get to, any suggestions on those?
Thanks again.
Last edited by RangerPilot; Apr 2, 2007 at 02:00 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
Oh I remember those suckers...
I pulled the motor out of an old Bronco 2 once. Those bolts were just giant rust *****. Nothing I could do with 'em except cut 'em.
My advice would be cut, remove, and replace. Unless they look to be in good shape, then you could try taking 'em apart with plenty of fluid... but dont hold your breath!
Another piece of advice would be some form of eye protection if you end up crawling under the vehicle. Sand / salt / rust in your eye is quite annoying.
I pulled the motor out of an old Bronco 2 once. Those bolts were just giant rust *****. Nothing I could do with 'em except cut 'em.
My advice would be cut, remove, and replace. Unless they look to be in good shape, then you could try taking 'em apart with plenty of fluid... but dont hold your breath!
Another piece of advice would be some form of eye protection if you end up crawling under the vehicle. Sand / salt / rust in your eye is quite annoying.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,170
Likes: 5
From: The hills of No. Calif.
When installing the headers, if you can't get 'em to go in from the top don't overlook the option of going up from the bottom. It's surprising how often people just keep working from the top and fighting it when often going in from underneath will let them slip right into place. (Not always though...sometimes you have to remove a motor mount bolt and rock the engine to the side for clearance.)
This isn't for the 4.0 specifically, just a general tip for installing headers...
This isn't for the 4.0 specifically, just a general tip for installing headers...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Thank you guys both. I'm still lubing them as much as possible. Expecting to do the dirty work next Saturday sometime after the North Texas meet.
I'm going stainless replacement for ALL the bolts, and the ones connecting the headers to the Y pipe are no different. That being said, I gave up on even trying to remove the two that connect the stock manifolds to the Y-pipe.
My plan now is to cut just in front of the Y-pipe to cat converter flange, remove the entire exhaust behind the flange from the truck (so I can get the flange off), use a Dremel to hack off most of the Y-pipe from the manifolds, then remove the bolts as much as possible and remove the manifolds.
Both of them look fairly easy to remove and replace...the passenger side will probably have to go in at a weird angle, but I think I can get it in there.
Either way, thanks again for the help guys, I'll let you know how it goes.
I'm going stainless replacement for ALL the bolts, and the ones connecting the headers to the Y pipe are no different. That being said, I gave up on even trying to remove the two that connect the stock manifolds to the Y-pipe.
My plan now is to cut just in front of the Y-pipe to cat converter flange, remove the entire exhaust behind the flange from the truck (so I can get the flange off), use a Dremel to hack off most of the Y-pipe from the manifolds, then remove the bolts as much as possible and remove the manifolds.
Both of them look fairly easy to remove and replace...the passenger side will probably have to go in at a weird angle, but I think I can get it in there.
Either way, thanks again for the help guys, I'll let you know how it goes.
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Postmaster
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From: St. Peter
Rangerpilot, did you ever go through with this? I'm in the process of ripping apart my brothers ranger. I"m down to the heads, and i have a set of headers that shoudl be delivered today. I have the 3 top bolts on the passenger side out no problem, but for the bottom ones i think i'm going to have to take off the inner fender shield to get to them. I've tried the bottom one and its just rounding off. I"m thinking if i can get that off i can get my impact on it and rattle it off gently.
