Question on EGR Valve?
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Question on EGR Valve?
I checked the EGR valve with car running, it holds the vacuum ok, but when I sprayed some throttle/carb cleaner trhough the small holes on the valve,
see pic, the rpms went up, then I sprayed one more time and got the same results, is the valve bad?
see pic, the rpms went up, then I sprayed one more time and got the same results, is the valve bad?
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Originally Posted by aquanaut20
There should be NO atmospheric air entering the EGR valve, this would constitute a vacuum leak.
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what you need to do is...
you need to spray the cleaner while the valve is off and wash off the excess carbon build up because if you spray the valve with the cleaner still in there, then you are recirculating the cleaner spray along with the combusted gas from the engine which caused the rpm increase. Your valve is probably stuck open or closed and needs to be taken off and cleaned properly. when taken off, check for cracks or leaks. I it is cracked, get it replaced. They run about 60 bucks or less and are easy to replace. Just unscrew two bolts and detach two tubings (one pulls right off anf the other twist off), thats it: however, it often hard to fit tools to unscrew the bolts.
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Wait a minute guys!Look at the drawing on my previous post, and look at the small dots where the arrow #1 is pointing!
If you did notice the center shaft goes up and down when vacuum is applied through the top nipple, and there's no way that center shaft can be 100%
air tight otherwise the shaft couldn't move right?
so if you spray whatever through those small holes on the side, it's very normal to me that the fluid is going to run down the center shaft and into the manifold, see the pic, even better try it in yours it won't do no harm and you'll
see I'm right!
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I just did the same test on my other 94 2.3L ranger, and it also changes rpms when sprayed through those holes, but the changes were minimum to none, that is telling me that the other Ranger EGR is leaking more air through the center shaft, if I clean it the gap will be larger I guess, I know could just buy a new one for $50, but I just hate guessing and wasting $ in parts which I don't really need, it sucks!
Every how many miles you guys do replace the EGR valve?
mine has 75k, how long they last?
Every how many miles you guys do replace the EGR valve?
mine has 75k, how long they last?
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I have the same scenario!
I also have a surge in RPM if I spray fluid near the unit. I assumed that the holes were there to let in air. Why the holes????? I also still have a lingering problem with a rough idle- Maybe this is it??
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Virginia
IDK, about the change in RPM with the fluid. I would imagine the fluid getting by is very possible. As for the holes, I am fairly sure they are to allow the diaphragm to operate. If the unit was sealed it would take a lot more vacuum pressure to move the diaphragm. The purpose of the valve is to allow recirculation of exhaust gas, not to allow extra air in. That is what the IACV is for.
What makes you think you have a bad EGR? Did you get some codes on it? If the EVP shows it out of position, you should get some error codes. I don't have the manual in front of me but I am fairly sure there are tests for the EGR in there.
What makes you think you have a bad EGR? Did you get some codes on it? If the EVP shows it out of position, you should get some error codes. I don't have the manual in front of me but I am fairly sure there are tests for the EGR in there.
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Originally Posted by G2IC_Wraith
IDK, about the change in RPM with the fluid. I would imagine the fluid getting by is very possible.
How do we know if the leaking is normal, everyones talks about checking the diaphragm, but nobody said a word about air getting pass through the valve shaft?
As for the holes, I am fairly sure they are to allow the diaphragm to operate. If the unit was sealed it would take a lot more vacuum pressure to move the diaphragm.
Fleet Mechanic
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From: Southern KS
What was causing the problem in the first place? Egr valves can easily be cleaned and rarely go bad. If you were getting a code for excessive or insufficient flow it could be the DPFE, clogged orifice in throttle body, clogged orifice in Egr tube, clogged rubber hoses from the egr tube to DPFE, or even the vacuum solenoid the controls vacuum to the egr valve. All these are pretty easy to diagnose.
What are the symptoms with your truck?
What are the symptoms with your truck?
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Originally Posted by super 6.8
What was causing the problem in the first place? Egr valves can easily be cleaned and rarely go bad. If you were getting a code for excessive or insufficient flow it could be the DPFE, clogged orifice in throttle body, clogged orifice in Egr tube, clogged rubber hoses from the egr tube to DPFE, or even the vacuum solenoid the controls vacuum to the egr valve. All these are pretty easy to diagnose.
What are the symptoms with your truck?
What are the symptoms with your truck?
I have some hesitation, engine shakes too much at idle like a vacuum leak which I checked spraying throttle
cleaner at the intake joint and hoses, and couldn't find any leaks, and also I have pinging in hard acceleration or going up hill.
I recently replaced the DPFE, EVR, cleaned maf, egr valve checed OK, holds vacuum and engine drops with vacuum applied, and I seafoam through the intake, a lot of people claimed that stuff works, but didn't for me, and I pour 1/2 can, and I watched the smoke show.
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It is normal for carb cleaner to enter where the shaft goes. Cadriver is correct and as long as there is no check engine light, no severe rpm change usually no more than 50- 100 rpm, don't worry about it the pcm should be able to compensate with the iac motor.
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Originally Posted by ranger88a
It is normal for carb cleaner to enter where the shaft goes. Cadriver is correct and as long as there is no check engine light, no severe rpm change usually no more than 50- 100 rpm, don't worry about it the pcm should be able to compensate with the iac motor.
