Got Performer, Now What?
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Iowa
Got Performer, Now What?
Finally got a 1406 performer carb to go on my performer intake for my 400, but what else do i need, i've never done an intake swap before...I was looking on summit the other day and saw the had throttle brackets and ford throttle linkage adapters, do i need any of this, or all of this? I know I'll need new intake gaskets, but do i need a new valley pan? Any and all info would be helpful, Thanks.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Delaware
Get a new valley pan, you do not need gaskets. After removing the old manifold, clean the mating surfaces on the heads, and install the valley pan. Do not use the rubber end seals with the valley pan, but use siliicone sealant to seal the ends of the manifold. be sure to get the corners filled. Install the manifold per the Edelbrock instructions.
When installing the carb you could install a 2" carb spacer, if you have enough hood clearance. Use a spacer with 4 holes rather than a open spacer.
You will probably need a Ford linkage adapter from Edelbrock, also a Fuel Inlet fitting, and carb gaskets (4 hole).
You should also check the fuel pressure from your fuel pump, when you rev the motor before you pull it apart. Edelbrock carbs like 5 PSI and no more. some mechanical pumps can put out more at high RPM and flood the carb.
When installing the carb you could install a 2" carb spacer, if you have enough hood clearance. Use a spacer with 4 holes rather than a open spacer.
You will probably need a Ford linkage adapter from Edelbrock, also a Fuel Inlet fitting, and carb gaskets (4 hole).
You should also check the fuel pressure from your fuel pump, when you rev the motor before you pull it apart. Edelbrock carbs like 5 PSI and no more. some mechanical pumps can put out more at high RPM and flood the carb.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 13,561
Likes: 81
From: Manhattan, KS
I think you will also need an adapter for the kickdown rod to the C6 if you want passing gear. You may have to adjust(bend) the kickdown rod a little to get it to work right along with adjustments. If the carb didn't come with it you will also need some of the ball end screws for the carb linkage if you are using your stock throttle linkage. You probably can get that stuff at a local parts store.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 13,561
Likes: 81
From: Manhattan, KS
lilman320, I did the swap that you are doing on my 78 Bronco that is used mostly for off road fun. As danlee said, Lokar makes good stuff and it works. My truck is a beater and nice chrome would be worth more than the truck. One other thing that I ran into is the throttle return spring on the edelbrock stuff is a little light and you may need to add a heavier spring. If you run into issues come back here and we'll be more than happy to try to help.
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From: Iowa
Ok heres what I got in my shopping cart thus far, my debit card is stupid so i cant go over 110 a day, so i'll have to order in spurts...Throttle Lever Adapter, Throttle Cable Bracket, Throttle Return Spring (Dual Spring), Fel-Pro Valley Pan...
On the carb spacer, does it matter plastic or aluminum? They seem to be about the same price, is there any advantage one way or the other?
On the carb spacer, does it matter plastic or aluminum? They seem to be about the same price, is there any advantage one way or the other?
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,270
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From: Delaware
Originally Posted by lilman320
Ok heres what I got in my shopping cart thus far, my debit card is stupid so i cant go over 110 a day, so i'll have to order in spurts...Throttle Lever Adapter, Throttle Cable Bracket, Throttle Return Spring (Dual Spring), Fel-Pro Valley Pan...
On the carb spacer, does it matter plastic or aluminum? They seem to be about the same price, is there any advantage one way or the other?
On the carb spacer, does it matter plastic or aluminum? They seem to be about the same price, is there any advantage one way or the other?
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Iowa
Alright now I made the decision while I'm gonna have everything torn apart I might as well throw a new cam and timing chain in as well, but again this is my first time doing this...I ordered a comp cams magnum double roller timing set, timing cover gasket set, which includes fuel pump, water pump, and a couple of seals...The cam is a summit sum-k5200, Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 262/272, Lift .484/.510...In as much detail as possible, how do u set it to straight up timing? I've searche the other posts but must be looking at all the wrong ones because I cant find one that goes into detail...I know I'm throwin a lot at u guys and i apologize for that, but im just a youngin lookin for some wisdom, Thanks a million!!!
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Delaware
The large cam gear on the timing set will have one mark, while the smaller crank gear will have three key slots and three marks. You line up the cam gear with the mark down and the crank gear with the mark up.
One of the marks on the crank gear should be 4 degrees advanced, one zero degrees, and one 4 degrees retarded.
The instructions with the timing set should tell you which mark is which, but if you look at the marks and the keys, you will see that one mark is slightly to one side of the key and another is slightly to the other side of the key, while the third mark is lined up with the key.
One of the marks on the crank gear should be 4 degrees advanced, one zero degrees, and one 4 degrees retarded.
The instructions with the timing set should tell you which mark is which, but if you look at the marks and the keys, you will see that one mark is slightly to one side of the key and another is slightly to the other side of the key, while the third mark is lined up with the key.