I think I may have foundthe source if my Smokeing problem. I know that if air is intruding into the fuel it will cause this. While I was working on something else I noticed some fuel around the glow plug, dont know the cyl. number but its the second from the back on the passenger side of the motor. I fired it up and reved it wile looking at that injector and noticed some fuel seeping from around the nut on the metal line at the top of the injector. Now my theroy is that there is air seeping in from there. Am I way off??? also what would be a fix for this?? Could it just be an O-ring, or mabey just tightening the line down....The rest of the injectors are dry as a bone, and I'm not leaking fuel anywhere else so I dont think I have to replace the fuel lines, I hope anyways...LOL

 

If you see this on top of the nut, either the line is cracked or the nut is not tight.
If the fuel is below the nut it is probably due for return line O rings and return lines.

 

Yea, it actually is below the nut, I think I'll pick up some O-rings and pull it off. any idea of the relitive size of the O-Ring needed???

 

Do yourself a big favor and just buy all 16 o-rings and 6 feet of fuel hose. Complete kits including caps, hose, clamps, o-rings available on line 25-30 bucks.

 

Get a kit....the plastic T's will be warped and will not seal correctly.......

( return line kits/ injector install kit )
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_69.htm

 

Hmm, I guess that is a good idea, and fairly cheep. How hard is it to change all of that???

 

Here is how to....
First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done several sets and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.

 

did this on the first cylinder on the passenger side, not sure what number it is, on my 83. Taking the o rings off n putting the new ones on was easy for the first cylinder but getting at the injector on the next one up wasnt easy. I didnt even attempt to pull it out because I didnt want to bend the lines. Should you remove the injector lines? or does it not matter if you move them a little bit? Also since we are on the topic of injecto lines, are there any alternatives to the solid lines?

 

Just very gently move the line enough to get the cap off.
After you replace the cap make sure the line is lined back up with the injector so you do not cross thread the nut.

No alternative to the solid lines, they are all exactly the same length and must handle pressure in the 2000 PSI range.

 

I've found that if you get the hard line aligned with the flair on the inj. then push down on the line, it helps getting the nut started properly. They should thread on by hand.

Did you remove the little line clamps? The ones that clamp the lines together? If not, remove them. It'll give you a little more wiggle room with the hard lines. Just make sure you replace them when your done.

 

ok thanks ill try that tomorrow