Changed to synthetic
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 870
Likes: 9
From: Carbondale, CO
Changed to synthetic
Have been here a while, mostly reading and trying to learn. Recentaly purchased 2002 350, 7.3L w/ 75000 mi. Had some oil in valley, found CAC boots loose, tightened, cleaned and dry! You guys are great! I could use some more help. PO sticker on window indicated due for oil change. Had some kind of 15-40 in it. Went with Rotella 5-40 synthetic. 12 qts. hit full mark on stick. Fired up, ran around block and shut down. Will check in morning. I've heard @ 14 qts is whats required. Also now have small drip at pan plug. Afraid to tighten much more. Synthetic leaks easier than dyno?
Also picked up parts at IH dealer, but have not seen these #s on this board.
CPS - 1821720C99. It is black.
GPR - 1826634C94. Came with wire harness which I won't need.
Anybody familar with these numbers, and are they correct for the 7.3 Powerstroke? In Advance, Thanks and keep up the good work.
DND58
Also picked up parts at IH dealer, but have not seen these #s on this board.
CPS - 1821720C99. It is black.
GPR - 1826634C94. Came with wire harness which I won't need.
Anybody familar with these numbers, and are they correct for the 7.3 Powerstroke? In Advance, Thanks and keep up the good work.
DND58
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,497
Likes: 7
From: Central, Al
That copper washer on the drain plug is a use and loose item, need a new one at each change. a 2002 should take 15 qts. the early 99's had 14 qt pans. If the front end is up higher than the rear it will show higher than it actually is.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Synthetic can cause more leaks but your problems seems to be the metal crush seal that goes on the drain plug bolt. Some one else will chime in on the part number.
I switched to synthetic at 88000 miles with no leaks at 90000. I have purchased most all o-ring like turbo pedestal and such that are known problems so that if they do start to leak I can change them.
Check the valley, it could be fuel.
Good luck and welcome to what will become the begining of PMS...
I switched to synthetic at 88000 miles with no leaks at 90000. I have purchased most all o-ring like turbo pedestal and such that are known problems so that if they do start to leak I can change them.
Check the valley, it could be fuel.
Good luck and welcome to what will become the begining of PMS...
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Like Alan said, a new copper washer on the drain plug should be used every time the plug is removed to prevent leaks. You should be able to pick up a 3 pack at the auto parts store pretty cheap. I've also tried some other types of washers, like ones with rubber on them, but none seem to work as well as the plain copper washer.
You should probably use closer to 14 quarts. With my oil guard and dual HPOP setup, I typically use 17 quarts per change. Subtract 2 for the oil guard and 1 for the additional HPOP res, and you're right at 14. Also, be sure to fill the filter full of oil before you install it.
One more tip to check oil level when changing it. Fill it up to the full mark, then start the truck and let it run for a mintue or so. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes with the engine off and check the oil again. You'll probably end up adding another quart then, once the oil has flowed into any voids.
You should probably use closer to 14 quarts. With my oil guard and dual HPOP setup, I typically use 17 quarts per change. Subtract 2 for the oil guard and 1 for the additional HPOP res, and you're right at 14. Also, be sure to fill the filter full of oil before you install it.
One more tip to check oil level when changing it. Fill it up to the full mark, then start the truck and let it run for a mintue or so. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes with the engine off and check the oil again. You'll probably end up adding another quart then, once the oil has flowed into any voids.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
Click the link in my signature for part #'s
Here's the #'s you asked about.
(International) 1821720C99 (below engine 375548)
(International) 1825899C93 (above engine 375548)
Glow Plug Relay
(Allied Electronics) 576-1078 (Stancor Heavy Duty 586-902)
(AutoZone) MR99
(Ford) F7TZ-12B533-CA (94-96 with pigtail)
(Ford) F81Z-12B533-AC (96-early 2000 w/o pigtail)
(International) 1807230C2
(International) 1826634C94
(Napa) GPR-109
Here's the #'s you asked about.
(International) 1821720C99 (below engine 375548)
(International) 1825899C93 (above engine 375548)
Glow Plug Relay
(Allied Electronics) 576-1078 (Stancor Heavy Duty 586-902)
(AutoZone) MR99
(Ford) F7TZ-12B533-CA (94-96 with pigtail)
(Ford) F81Z-12B533-AC (96-early 2000 w/o pigtail)
(International) 1807230C2
(International) 1826634C94
(Napa) GPR-109
