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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Shifter Saga

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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 09:13 PM
  #16  
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progress

Yesterday, got the new transmission cover plate finished. Today got the cab floor sanded down, cleaned, and coated with Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator. Removed all the coat hanger wire from the PO's throttle setup, installed the new Throttle cable, Bracket, and springs. Day by Day,etc.Last nite the kid came around with his welder buddy, took a look at my project and reported "piece of cake" so they're coming back this week to tack my kickdown lever onto the tranny shift stud.

Still waiting on the radiator, any day now.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 11:46 AM
  #17  
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you got it correct on the wiring issue. the wire from the start terminal on ignition switch goes to the neutral switch and then to the start terminal on the starter solenoid.


very easy wiring circuit.

good luck with project.

Mike
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 11:52 AM
  #18  
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There is likely a rubber O ring seal around the kickdown shaft. You'll need to protect it from the welding heat or it will melt and start leaking like a sieve and you'll need to pull the tranny apart to fix it anyway.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:04 PM
  #19  
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The shift shaft seal (I can barely pronounce that) can be a real pain in the rear. I know that for some applications there is a special tool for replacing the shift shaft seal without having to remove the pan or the valve body. (I bought one for my GM TH400)
I don't know if they make one for Ford tranny's or not. I think the tool company was K-D Tools (they make alot of the specialty tools for the factories)

Bobby
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 02:08 PM
  #20  
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shift shaft leak

Yes, it is already leaking some, the PO probably screwed it up when he welded the lever on that I had to remove. The welding I'm doing will be only a tack or two on the very end of the kickdown shaft to hold on the kd lever. It'll happen so quick, don't think there'll be much heat buildup. I checked out the tool to replace the shaft seal, it only works for GM or Chrysler. Would be nice tho, wouldn't it. I plan to drive the truck a while and someday get the tranny rebuilt and upgraded, at which time, all of the leaks, etc., will be repaired.

I checked out several wiring diagrams, and learned how to wire the neutral switch into the starter relay-ignition switch circuit. Thanks for the input and confirmation. Picked up the wire, connectors, and gonna do it this afternoon.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 02:12 PM
  #21  
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If you have a small set of needle nosed vice-grips you might try clamping them on the shaft before you do any welding. They will act as a heat sink and give the seal a little protection from the heat

Bobby
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 02:17 PM
  #22  
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Or wrap a wet rag around the shaft (needs to be nearly dripping wet to be effective).
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 05:09 PM
  #23  
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tack welding & N. Sw.

Thanks, Ax & Bobby, Both items good advice, will do both.

Got the neutral switch hooked up, works like a charm. Little successes keep us going after the big ones.

Thanks, all of you, for all the good tips.
 
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